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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

DSCF1737.JPG

This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

DSCF1739.JPG

The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

DSCF1740.JPG

This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

DSCF1741.JPG

This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

DSCF1743.JPG

The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

DSCF1745.JPG

As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

DSCF1746.JPG

I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.
 

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Nice write up!!!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Good job, glad my dealer installed it before I picked up the tractor. They charged me for the parts, but not the install. Looks like I got a couple of hours out of them. I do wish they would've installed the switch where you put yours. The location by my left knee is awkward because the knob for the MMM height is on the same side so you wind up leaning over, using your right hand for the switch (around the steering wheel) and then doing the knob with your left. It kind of feels like I'm playing twister.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Good job, glad my dealer installed it before I picked up the tractor. They charged me for the parts, but not the install. Looks like I got a couple of hours out of them. I do wish they would've installed the switch where you put yours. The location by my left knee is awkward because the knob for the MMM height is on the same side so you wind up leaning over, using your right hand for the switch (around the steering wheel) and then doing the knob with your left. It kind of feels like I'm playing twister.
I'm sure you received more than a couple hours of technician time. I was seven plus hours installing it. Granted, I get sidetracked and the first time through has a learning curve that typically doubles my time compared to a second installation. My dealer wanted $600 to install it and based on my experience, that would be a very fair price.

As to the switch location, the console comes from the factory with the lower switch hole punched and covered with a blank. The harness is long enough to move the switch adjacent to the PTO switch. So you certainly can re-locate your switch and put the blank cover back in the hole. If your dealer didn't send you the left over parts, you're welcome to the blank plug form mine. I'm installing a switch for a tow behind sprayer in that location. Otherwise, you can obtain the blanks from electronic suppliers such as Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, Waytek, etc. If you need guidance with the disassembly procedure for the console, I can help you out with that.

Since it is new, clean and I have it disassembled, I'm adding the wiring for a tow behind sprayer (which I don't own), the grapple diverter valve, and the cab (heater, dome lamp, work lights, etc). I'm adding relays and fuses to the OEM fuseblock. I believe I've identified all the required terminals (they're on order) and once I'm done I'll author another post on aux wiring which will include PN and links to the fuseblock terminals, relays, and other supplies.
 

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I'm sure you received more than a couple hours of technician time. I was seven plus hours installing it. Granted, I get sidetracked and the first time through has a learning curve that typically doubles my time compared to a second installation. My dealer wanted $600 to install it and based on my experience, that would be a very fair price.

As to the switch location, the console comes from the factory with the lower switch hole punched and covered with a blank. The harness is long enough to move the switch adjacent to the PTO switch. So you certainly can re-locate your switch and put the blank cover back in the hole. If your dealer didn't send you the left over parts, you're welcome to the blank plug form mine. I'm installing a switch for a tow behind sprayer in that location. Otherwise, you can obtain the blanks from electronic suppliers such as Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, Waytek, etc. If you need guidance with the disassembly procedure for the console, I can help you out with that.

Since it is new, clean and I have it disassembled, I'm adding the wiring for a tow behind sprayer (which I don't own), the grapple diverter valve, and the cab (heater, dome lamp, work lights, etc). I'm adding relays and fuses to the OEM fuseblock. I believe I've identified all the required terminals (they're on order) and once I'm done I'll author another post on aux wiring which will include PN and links to the fuseblock terminals, relays, and other supplies.

I appreciate the offers. I don't think I'll be doing the work just to move the button. It may be something for 'someday' when I'm into it for another reason. I'm not going to take your blank for a someday project, but I may hit you up someday when I break into it.

Thanks again.
 

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I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

View attachment 329226

This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

View attachment 329234

The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

View attachment 329258

This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

View attachment 329266

This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

View attachment 329274

The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

View attachment 329282

As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

View attachment 329330

I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.



I have the separate hydraulic lift on my tractor. The second pdf you have shown reflects what mine consisted of. My mower is lifted and lowered with the joy stick. You show an added switch mounted to the plastic "dash". What is this switch for?

I always thought the hydraulic cylinder should be hard lined with a "T" and manual shut off so the male quick connect would not be hanging when the blower or bucket is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have the separate hydraulic lift on my tractor. The second pdf you have shown reflects what mine consisted of. My mower is lifted and lowered with the joy stick. You show an added switch mounted to the plastic "dash". What is this switch for?

I always thought the hydraulic cylinder should be hard lined with a "T" and manual shut off so it would not be hanging when the blower or bucket is installed.
Well, let's see if I can explain the difference in JD terminology. The stock lifting system is what JD terms "Mechanical Lift" and that term is very appropriate. There is an interconnecting link between the 3-point rockshaft and the mower deck rockshaft. So they both function from the 3-point actuator and in unison.

The "Hydraulic Lift", what you have, add the extra hydraulic cylinder and it is connected to one of the joystick hydraulic circuits. In this manner, the mower deck lift is independent of the 3-point, but not of the FEL hydraulics. So if you have the mower deck and loader installed at the same time, the mower deck will move with the loader--unless you have it up all the way and deck height adjuster set at "Install".

What I just installed is termed 'Independent Lift" as the mower deck lift does not share a circuit with either the 3-point or the FEL. I'm guessing there really isn't a good place to install another SCV and the plumbing that would accompany that to the mower deck lift cylinder---or at least not very cost effective. So this circuit is controlled by the electric valve added with the kit and mounted beneath the frame crossover plate Thus, why the switch was added to control this electric valve. In this manner, when the momentary switch is activated, the mower deck is raised.

While it is now independent of any other hydraulic circuit, the "Independent Lift" is no different than your "Hydraulic Lift"--it only raises the mower deck and does not hold it in the raised position. You must keep the function active until you adjust the manual mower height setting for the desired height, because as soon as the hydraulic actuator is released, the deck will fall to the position set by the manual height adjustment. The cost and the complexity of adding the additional plumbing for hydraulic "down" circuit would be expensive. Moreover, I've never had hydraulics that didn't leak down over time (some quicker than others) so it is not a reliable method of setting cutting height and would certainly yield a whole host of complaints as the height of the cut grass changed from the beginning of a job to the ending point.

The purpose of relocating the switch from the factory location at the lower left side of the console (yours may have a blank switch cover in that location) is that you need to keep the switch activated with one hand, to bold the mower deck up, while adjusting the manual height dial with the other. Needless to say, you need to be nimble to do both at the same time. Sadly, those days are long gone for many of us, present company included. Thus, why the switch was re-located adjacent to the PTO switch.

A hard line shut-off valve isn't going to do anything the electric valve doesn't. The cylinder will still leak down over time. The hard line valve will most likely be in a location that would at a minimum be more difficult to access than the OEM switch location and more likely would require leaving the operator's station. I'm sure the folks at Fit-Rite Hydraulics could come up with something, but as I think they'd be quick to point out, at what price point would you be willing to bear?
 

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Well, let's see if I can explain the difference in JD terminology. The stock lifting system is what JD terms "Mechanical Lift" and that term is very appropriate. There is an interconnecting link between the 3-point rockshaft and the mower deck rockshaft. So they both function from the 3-point actuator and in unison.

The "Hydraulic Lift", what you have, add the extra hydraulic cylinder and it is connected to one of the joystick hydraulic circuits. In this manner, the mower deck lift is independent of the 3-point, but not of the FEL hydraulics. So if you have the mower deck and loader installed at the same time, the mower deck will move with the loader--unless you have it up all the way and deck height adjuster set at "Install".

What I just installed is termed 'Independent Lift" as the mower deck lift does not share a circuit with either the 3-point or the FEL. I'm guessing there really isn't a good place to install another SCV and the plumbing that would accompany that to the mower deck lift cylinder---or at least not very cost effective. So this circuit is controlled by the electric valve added with the kit and mounted beneath the frame crossover plate Thus, why the switch was added to control this electric valve. In this manner, when the momentary switch is activated, the mower deck is raised.

While it is now independent of any other hydraulic circuit, the "Independent Lift" is no different than your "Hydraulic Lift"--it only raises the mower deck and does not hold it in the raised position. You must keep the function active until you adjust the manual mower height setting for the desired height, because as soon as the hydraulic actuator is released, the deck will fall to the position set by the manual height adjustment. The cost and the complexity of adding the additional plumbing for hydraulic "down" circuit would be expensive. Moreover, I've never had hydraulics that didn't leak down over time (some quicker than others) so it is not a reliable method of setting cutting height and would certainly yield a whole host of complaints as the height of the cut grass changed from the beginning of a job to the ending point.

The purpose of relocating the switch from the factory location at the lower left side of the console (yours may have a blank switch cover in that location) is that you need to keep the switch activated with one hand, to bold the mower deck up, while adjusting the manual height dial with the other. Needless to say, you need to be nimble to do both at the same time. Sadly, those days are long gone for many of us, present company included. Thus, why the switch was re-located adjacent to the PTO switch.

A hard line shut-off valve isn't going to do anything the electric valve doesn't. The cylinder will still leak down over time. The hard line valve will most likely be in a location that would at a minimum be more difficult to access than the OEM switch location and more likely would require leaving the operator's station. I'm sure the folks at Fit-Rite Hydraulics could come up with something, but as I think they'd be quick to point out, at what price point would you be willing to bear?

I think I follow what you stated. As mine is now I lift the deck with the joy stick. Deck does stay up and I can reset the stop knob for cut height without having to hold joy stick. When done setting cut height I just lower deck with joy stick. The lift up is also convenient for traversing over driveway or where I do not want to cut grass. Deck stays up during all these short lift times. In fact It seems to stay up a lot longer as I wash off tractor and deck with garden hose and I put it away in the garage and lower deck with joy stick. Also find independent lift convenient for moving trailer to cut around by using the 3 point hitch while holding mower deck up.

I guess I like my JD with what I have. Thank you for explanation.

It would seem a bit cumbersome to hold electric switch to maintain the deck up.
 

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Motorcycle/ATV lift

I just installed the independent lift option on my 1025R. As others have posted, the instructions are not real clear. Below are some photos I took of my installation:

The photo below depicts the tractor disassembly required to install the kit. The installation instructions included with the kit just gloss over this. However, the Technical Manual, TM126919, provides a detailed step-by-step procedure. As such, I won't repeat those details.

View attachment 329226

This photo depicts the position of the hydraulic lines of the kit, those painted black. Note that two of the three lines depicted are installed on the backside of the forward/reverse lever dampener (silver colored tube device). The lever end of the dampener must be taken loose to position the added lines. Also, the wiring harness is positioned on the outside of the added lines.

View attachment 329234

The photo below is a rear view looking down along the side of the frame rail to depict line orientation.

View attachment 329258

This photo is a top down view of the hydraulic line positioning. Again, the black painted lines are those added by the kit.

View attachment 329266

This photo is an upward view of the electric valve and the hydraulic connections.

View attachment 329274

The photo below is off a thin wall wrench that was required to secure some of the hydraulic fitting locknuts associated with the electric valve. As most of the fittings are 90 degrees, a standard wrench would not fit between some of the fittings and the valve body. This particular wrench is a Craftsman PN: 44474 I also had to test fit a few different brands of wrenches to find one whose heal and cap dimensions would provide the clearance necessary to fit on the line nut of the 90 degree fitting on the frame rail side of the valve body.

View attachment 329282

As other members have posted for operator convenience, I installed the switch in the panel cutout originally occupied by the PTO switch and cut a new mounting hole for the PTO switch adjacent to it. I made the panel cutout utilizing a utility knife. The panel material is fairly soft and not difficult to cutout.

View attachment 329330

I've also attached the installation manuals for the kits. I've marked up these manuals to add clarifications as well as an excerpt from the sales manual, as suggested by another member, which provides a color coded illustration of the different lines utilized in conjunction with the Power Beyond and Third SCV options.
Not to change the subject, but, I see you have your tractor on what looks like a Weaver motorcycle/atv lift. What is the weight capacity of your lift? I have a similar (Handy Lift) lift for my motorcycles but without the widening kit. Mine is I believe a 1000# capacity so I'm not sure if it would lift my tractor. If I find out that it will, I'm going to order the side extensions for it. I love that lift for the bikes and would love it even more if I could use it for the 1025R.
 

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I posted something similar to the comment/question yesterday but I think I misunderstood the purpose of the hydraulic mod they were making on that thread. Anyway I am new to the site and while I've had my 1025r for a few years now I am just now getting to 200 hrs. Started looking at some how to's so that I can do my own service and found this site. One of the things I do not like about the hydraulics is that in order to use the MMM lift with the FEL still in place I have to swap out one of the FEL functions. It is a pain to work the MMM quick connect into place due to the length of the hose and I usually have to undo some of the surrounding connections to get that in place the reinsert the others. My thought was to add a 3 way valve in the circuit and use it to redirect the flow as needed.
No more swapping of the one hose. Any thoughts on this or has anyone tried it. I am not sure it this adding an independent lift is for the same thing I would like to accomplish.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Not to change the subject, but, I see you have your tractor on what looks like a Weaver motorcycle/atv lift. What is the weight capacity of your lift? I have a similar (Handy Lift) lift for my motorcycles but without the widening kit. Mine is I believe a 1000# capacity so I'm not sure if it would lift my tractor. If I find out that it will, I'm going to order the side extensions for it. I love that lift for the bikes and would love it even more if I could use it for the 1025R.
The 1025R is all it wants to lift and if my shop air is near the compressor cut-in point, 100 psi, it won't lift it to the first stop of the lock stand. I have to bleed off some air so the compressor runs and reaches cut-out pressure, 150psi. Then it will lift it OK. It always worked fine with my 455s and, to be honest, it works about as I was expecting with the 1025R. I did have a full tank of fuel, also.

I originally purchased this for motorcycles and bought the extensions with my initial purchase. They're plain nice to have even with motorcycles as you have a work platform for tools. It is one of the best tool investments I ever made---especially now that I'm 60 and carrying around a few extra pounds that don't roll up so well if I had to bend over from my knees.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I posted something similar to the comment/question yesterday but I think I misunderstood the purpose of the hydraulic mod they were making on that thread. Anyway I am new to the site and while I've had my 1025r for a few years now I am just now getting to 200 hrs. Started looking at some how to's so that I can do my own service and found this site. One of the things I do not like about the hydraulics is that in order to use the MMM lift with the FEL still in place I have to swap out one of the FEL functions. It is a pain to work the MMM quick connect into place due to the length of the hose and I usually have to undo some of the surrounding connections to get that in place the reinsert the others. My thought was to add a 3 way valve in the circuit and use it to redirect the flow as needed.
No more swapping of the one hose. Any thoughts on this or has anyone tried it. I am not sure it this adding an independent lift is for the same thing I would like to accomplish.
A 3-way valve wouldn't accomplish a lot. It would eliminate having to swap the hose around, but you would have to move the valve back and forth. You'd still be limited to one implement operation at a time, which ever was selected by the 3-way. I believe I've seen this discussed or at least mentioned before on the forum, but I don't recall if anyone ever implemented it. I believe the issue is the valve could not be accessed while seated at the Operator Station, so it wasn't very convenient. After all, Murphy's Law will dictate it would be in the wrong position of what is desired.

The "Independent Lift" would eliminate the hose swapping and allow both the mower deck and FEL to be operated simultaneously and independently. As you have the 'Hydraulic Lift" option, you already have one of the kits required to implement "Independent Lift".

There also have been members who posted threads on utilizing aftermarket components to do the same thing but allowing it to stay lifted and not be drawn down by the cylinder return spring. This required a bit more plumbing and with hose rather than tubing. It also requires a bit more electrical wiring. However, I believe the cost was a fair amount less. I don't recall the specific thread, but I'm sure it is in the SCUT category.
 

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Hmmm... I haven't really thought out a mounting placement for the valve but I had a vague idea of putting on the right rear fender (within reach) which would require some tubing work. Also for me so far I have not needed the bucket while mowing nor the mowing while using the FEL but I see your point. I'll put some more thought into that while actually looking at the tractor and get back with you. Great site! I am learning lots! Thanks.
 

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Hmmm... I haven't really thought out a mounting placement for the valve but I had a vague idea of putting on the right rear fender (within reach) which would require some tubing work. Also for me so far I have not needed the bucket while mowing nor the mowing while using the FEL but I see your point. I'll put some more thought into that while actually looking at the tractor and get back with you. Great site! I am learning lots! Thanks.
Jmark, you have a good concept, far better than the JD electric switch. The elimination of constant connecting the mower lift cylinder coupling which is part of the tractor is great. Not having that coupling hanging down when not in use is terrific. A simple hydraulic switch located somewhere half way accessapble (not necessary to stay in the seat) is all good. You can't stay in the seat to switch hydraulic couplings anyway. Best yet do it with out electrical hook up and keep it simple. Less is better and fewer things to go wrong. The JD switch system is ridicous cost for what it does rather what it doesn't do.
 

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I have installed a 3 way valve to have the simulation of the "independent lift." I also installed a single point at the same time. I do have to get off the operator station to move the valve but in most cases I am swapping from the mower to the FEL or going the other way. You have to get off the tractor to set the gauge wheels and the mechanical release bar to remove the mower deck anyway so to me not a big deal. The single point makes this a really simple operation. I can swap back and forth in under a minute if I line up the mower deck right the first time. I have had one time that I had to turn the tractor off to move the valve, but otherwise has been flawless.

Here is a link to my thread
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/20802-great-information-but-bad-bank-2.html
 
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I posted something similar to the comment/question yesterday but I think I misunderstood the purpose of the hydraulic mod they were making on that thread. Anyway I am new to the site and while I've had my 1025r for a few years now I am just now getting to 200 hrs. Started looking at some how to's so that I can do my own service and found this site. One of the things I do not like about the hydraulics is that in order to use the MMM lift with the FEL still in place I have to swap out one of the FEL functions. It is a pain to work the MMM quick connect into place due to the length of the hose and I usually have to undo some of the surrounding connections to get that in place the reinsert the others. My thought was to add a 3 way valve in the circuit and use it to redirect the flow as needed.
No more swapping of the one hose. Any thoughts on this or has anyone tried it. I am not sure it this adding an independent lift is for the same thing I would like to accomplish.
I actually did this type of MMM lift system to my 1025R several years ago. I liked the functionality of hydraulic lift using the SCV but didn't like that I had to swap the quick connects every time I wanted to used it. I also didn't think I would like the functionality of the independent lift because I like the ability to lift and lower the MMM at will with the SCV. Yes, the MMM will leak down over time but no quicker than the FEL will also leak down over time. It takes several hours for my MMM to leak completely down.

So, I installed a 3-way solenoid valve in the circuit. This link documents how I did it. http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/34457-1025r-independent-hydraulic-mid-mount-mower-lift-using-selective-control-valve-w-solenoid-valve.html
PS...the way I connected the hydraulics, the FEL hydraulic quick connect must be disconnected when using the MMM since I rely on the FEL quick connect being closed to back up oil pressure for the MMM. I didn't find this as a problem since I never use my MMM with the FEL attached.
 

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Wear mark on hydraulic tubing in 2nd and 3rd photo. Do you know what caused it?

Romredy
:wgtt:

Hey there, welcome! I don’t see any wear marks in Martin’s pics, are you saying you have wear on yours and you’re wondering where it could have came from? If so check this thread here - Link I just went through replacing one of those lines due to a wear issue caused by an incorrect initial install. Scroll down toward the bottom for pics.
 
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