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I finally have some time to convert the 2038R over to winter plow mode. Today I will be removing the loader (which should take all of 2 minutes) and then installing the removed parts (cylinders, hydraulics, lift arms, center link, A-Frame) for the front 3 Point Hitch and then install the front blade. I will photo-document and post pics on here later today to share the results... Can't wait to plow with it in that configuration. Wish me luck!

Sincerely

3 Photos of BadAss when she was being delivered from the dealer and they were demonstrating the Front 3 Point Hitch and the 366FMB

Deere 2038R 38A.jpg

Deere 2038R 40.jpg

Deere 2038R 41.jpg
 

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Hiya,

I'll give you some tips for the front a frame hitch and 366 blade after using one for a few years on my 3320.

1) Take the big wingnut and lynch pin that hold the big bolt on and throw them away, they are useless.

2) Take the big bolt, go to the local hardware store and get a hex and lock nut to fit it, they are metric thread.

3) Go get one of these: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-square-lock-pin?cm_vc=IOPDP1

4) When you store the blade, do so where it will not get water on it as the cylinders tend to pickup water and go bad.

5) The skid shoes are set to the wrong angle as it comes from Deere, Kenny has a post on relocating them for proper function.

OK, back to #'s 2 and 3: With your new hardware, mount up the blade. When you put the retaining pin in, clip the bailing wire closed then rotate the pin so that the big end is facing forward. pull the bolt up making sure the pin catches the notch in the hitch, hand tighten the nut to snug it. Now, very important step, push the pin forward so that the head of the pin is against the hitch plate then tighten the nut up snug but not tight enough to sheer the pin, then lock the lock nut down against the hex nut. This will make sure that the plow will stay put on the A frame hitch. The big wingnut and lynch pin will always loosen up no matter how tight you put them, ask me I bent the crap out of the big bolt once because the lynch pin fell out.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hiya,

I'll give you some tips for the front a frame hitch and 366 blade after using one for a few years on my 3320.

1) Take the big wingnut and lynch pin that hold the big bolt on and throw them away, they are useless.

2) Take the big bolt, go to the local hardware store and get a hex and lock nut to fit it, they are metric thread.

3) Go get one of these: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-square-lock-pin?cm_vc=IOPDP1

4) When you store the blade, do so where it will not get water on it as the cylinders tend to pickup water and go bad.

5) The skid shoes are set to the wrong angle as it comes from Deere, Kenny has a post on relocating them for proper function.

OK, back to #'s 2 and 3: With your new hardware, mount up the blade. When you put the retaining pin in, clip the bailing wire closed then rotate the pin so that the big end is facing forward. pull the bolt up making sure the pin catches the notch in the hitch, hand tighten the nut to snug it. Now, very important step, push the pin forward so that the head of the pin is against the hitch plate then tighten the nut up snug but not tight enough to sheer the pin, then lock the lock nut down against the hex nut. This will make sure that the plow will stay put on the A frame hitch. The big wingnut and lynch pin will always loosen up no matter how tight you put them, ask me I bent the crap out of the big bolt once because the lynch pin fell out.

Tom
Wow, Thanks! I would love for you to add some photos of these mods to go along with the text in your post!

Sincerely
 
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Hiya,

I'll give you some tips for the front a frame hitch and 366 blade after using one for a few years on my 3320.

1) Take the big wingnut and lynch pin that hold the big bolt on and throw them away, they are useless.

2) Take the big bolt, go to the local hardware store and get a hex and lock nut to fit it, they are metric thread.

3) Go get one of these: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-square-lock-pin?cm_vc=IOPDP1

4) When you store the blade, do so where it will not get water on it as the cylinders tend to pickup water and go bad.

5) The skid shoes are set to the wrong angle as it comes from Deere, Kenny has a post on relocating them for proper function.

OK, back to #'s 2 and 3: With your new hardware, mount up the blade. When you put the retaining pin in, clip the bailing wire closed then rotate the pin so that the big end is facing forward. pull the bolt up making sure the pin catches the notch in the hitch, hand tighten the nut to snug it. Now, very important step, push the pin forward so that the head of the pin is against the hitch plate then tighten the nut up snug but not tight enough to sheer the pin, then lock the lock nut down against the hex nut. This will make sure that the plow will stay put on the A frame hitch. The big wingnut and lynch pin will always loosen up no matter how tight you put them, ask me I bent the crap out of the big bolt once because the lynch pin fell out.

Tom
Yep! I can attest to that. The person I got my blade from pretty much totally neglected it. Both angle cylinders are like this. Luckily they don't leak.
 

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I cannot find the post about the skid shoe fix. I set one up about a year ago and couldn't figure out how to get a better angle no matter how I set the shoes.
 

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I cannot find the post about the skid shoe fix. I set one up about a year ago and couldn't figure out how to get a better angle no matter how I set the shoes.
Jeff,
I couldn't find it either-searched here and on TBN, it's probably burred within another thread.

Anyway, I did find this picture on my PC, basically you have to cut the top of the u-shaped holder, bend it out, then add in about 1/2" or 3/4" of steel then reweld to get the shoes flat on the ground. When I recently bought the used 366 blade for my 3720 I was fully expecting to have to make this modification, but someone already did, my guess is the selling dealer maybe.

If anyone needs help with this and is withing driving distance, I'd be happy to do it for them.

DSC09849 (Large).jpg
 

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Ken, were there different setups on these blades? Mine were never welded. The top is free, and the bottom is bolted. Pic is first install 7 years ago.
 

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Ken, were there different setups on these blades? Mine were never welded. The top is free, and the bottom is bolted. Pic is first install 7 years ago.
Greg,

Your's is a 380 series blade (according to your signature text), the mod we are discussing is for the 366 blade.

Tom
 

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Ken, were there different setups on these blades? Mine were never welded. The top is free, and the bottom is bolted. Pic is first install 7 years ago.
Not sure Greg...But I guess so. IIRC your blade was branded Kubota and jd JD, so they may have spec'd it differently. I suspect they may be made by https://www.amerequip.com/index.html, they make MMM's, Backhoes, and other attachments for various OEM's.
 
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Greg,

Your's is a 380 series blade (according to your signature text), the mod we are discussing is for the 366 blade.

Tom
My bad.:hide:
I apologize for the hijack.
 

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Greg,

Your's is a 380 series blade (according to your signature text), the mod we are discussing is for the 366 blade.

Tom

The 380, 380A, 375, 74, 64, and 366 all had this same issue since they all use virtually the same moldboard, the differences are in how they connect to the tractors. The pic I posted above was my old #380.

See my comment above on why I think Greg's is different.
 
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Update on the Front 3 Point Hitch installation: I very easily installed the front rockshaft and hydraulic cylinders and connected all the hydraulic lines that were capped and stowed. I disconnected the loader hydraulics and temporarily connected the front hitch lift cylinders and extended and retracted them to confirm their functionality. I then stowed the hydraulic cylinders with the U-shaped brackets and disconnected them hydraulically at the loader QD, and reconnected the loader hydraulics and then removed the loader to ensure sufficient clearance between the Front 3-Point Hitch hydraulic cylinders and the loader parking frame. Once I verified all of that I actually removed the loader and parked it in the barn. I then ran out of time to tend to some important family matters..... So I now have to install the lifting arms onto the splined front rockshaft, the center link and the lifting A-Frame. I then have to position the 366FMB onto the lifting A-Frame and connect the left/right hydraulics and adjust the skid shoes and I should be done. I will do that before the next snow storm which right now is not showing-up in the 10 day forecast. So I feel like I have plenty of time to get it right without any undue pressure!! I will add detail photos of the installation when time permits....

:bigthumb:

This is how it looked at the dealer when I picked it up and they demonstrated the Front 3-Point Hitch and 366FMB...

Deere 2038R 38B.jpg

Sincerely
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally Finished the Front 3-Point Hiitch and 366FMB Front Blade Installation

Well I finally finished-up the installation of the Front 3-Point Hitch and the 366FMB Front Mounted Blade. I added the 3-Point lifting arms, center link and A-Frame which completed the Front 3-Point Hitch. I tested it out with tractor running and all operated as expected in the up-down modes. I then installed the 366FMB which was already an assembled unit by mounting to the A-Frame and making two hydraulic connections using the supplied Q-Ds..... easy-peasy.... I again operationally tested everything out and all worked as advertised. Since most of the snow has melted around here I had a couple of snow piles from the last storm that I plowed through just to see how she worked... needless to say, I was very impressed..... this blade can be used for earth moving tasks also... it's not just a snow blade.... I am truly impressed by its ruggedness.... I will find out next spring! Enjoy the short video and the photos...

Sincerely

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubPrM0zgcDo

Deere 2038R 366FMB 001.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 003.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 004.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 014.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 025.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 013.jpg

Deere 2038R 366FMB 023.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Last step in the Winter conversion today was to remove the Backhoe and install the HeavyHitch with eight 70lb weights. It took me until now to do this because I had to rearrange and organize all my attachments in the storage garage. I also fabricated some storage wheels for my 72” MMM to help save space. This is how the storage garage looked when I was done. I have the 270B, 220R, 72”MMM, spare R4 wheel set all organized in there... then I moved BadAss into the house garage....

Now I am ready fir winter!!!

Sincerely
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Your MMM storage wheels rock! Nice job...



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Thanks for the positive feedback.

I made a modification to the winter storage wheel setup since last winter to make them a bit more robust. I eliminated the brass bushings that the threaded rod (axle) passes through and replaced them with a section of appropriately-sized pipe. The axle strength is now significantly stronger.

Sincerely
 

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