Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, last night I had planned for me and my pap to just go look at my 317 and it quickly went from just lookin to pickin up the thing. A couple things went a bit wrong, but in the end it was fine. First fiasco was clearing the trailer, having to weave around mud to get to the van we store our plywood in. Then the exit we had to take was closed, and we basically went in a big circle. Then we got to the town and nothing around had a bathroom. We got there and the 317 is a bit rougher than I thought, but also somehow a bit nicer. The steering is actually pretty tight, and the motor is a bit nicer than I thought. The thing that really surprised me was that the series I lasted over 2000 hours! The thrown rod is bad, and there's a massive hole in the block big enough to stick your hand in. So we got it loaded up (in the dark, too) and we went to drive home and the running lights on the trailer had comepletely stopped working. We still had brake lights and turn signals, but no running lights. We had to drive the whole way home with the 4 ways on. We forgot to tie the long end of the strap so as we were driving the strap was blowing out under the tailgate of the trailer. I just hopped out, wrapped the strap end around the tractor a couple times, and shoved the rest between the engine and dash tower. Then I realized that the front plate wasn't bolted on. It almost flew off, and because we had pulled the tractor all the way forward, it would've flown right under the trailer and into someone's car. Luckily I caught those three things or else that would've been a disaster.
It is in pretty nice shape, it even has a newish driveshaft.

The things that need addressed:
The steering column appears to have pulled apart where the tube meets the bottom part.
The engine is literally frozen. It's full of water and it was below freezing last night. It's also blown up.
The one front tire is flat. Still on the rim, but it's hard and non flexible.
The hydraulic lift levers don't go all the way forward.
The battery tray isn't bolted in.
The fender pan has 4 rust holes in it where someone put a canopy on it and left the holes unpainted.
The back has some wierd cobbled 3 point nonsense that's rusted solid and needs to come off. Of course it's welded to the frame, because why wouldn't it be?

I'll get more pictures when I get home from school.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Home?

Well...THAT looks like a project that will keep you busy between classes. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
So I did some work on the 317 after I got it inside. I do believe the guy that the driveshaft is new, or at least new-ish. The brakes don't return but that's because both of the return springs are broken off. The dash is in great shape for sitting outside for years, with no cracks or chips. The hour meter kinda hilariously stopped at 2345 hours. The amp meter is broke. The steering has 90 degrees of play but I suspect the steering column has been hit HARD, as the top tube is coming apart from the bottom. The fenders are really bad, with 4 rusty holes in them.
My plan is to put later 300 series fenders on, like 318 or 420 fenders. I'll talk about that in a seperate thread.
The motor is not seized, but it is horribly exploded.
I guess at some point I need to remove the rear plate and cut the horribly rough DIY 3 point off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
That's an ugly mess on the back of that tractor!
 
  • Like
Reactions: etcallhome

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That's an ugly mess on the back of that tractor!
Tell me about it. The welding, the cutting, everything about it is awful. It's like it was done by helen keller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So how would I go about fixing the top tube coming of the bottom of the steering box and the 90 degrees of play it has?
 
  • Like
Reactions: etcallhome

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Time is not the problem. It's money. This was about the only thing I could afford with 150$ from selling my cub cadet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,480 Posts
Where are you located? I had 3 running, driving 317’s I couldn’t sell even at $300, so I parted them out after a couple months posted, got $250 for a series 2 kt17, and 300 for an onan repower. I gave away more useable parts then you have just to get them out of the yard. I think I still have a hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm here in Monongahela Pa. The 314 hood has one mount broke off plus the hole I put on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: etcallhome

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
So, I got some work in on the 317. Pulled the engine out of the frame and pulled the sheet metal off to find birds were living in the flywheel shroud. Lost the driveshaft key, because of course. Stripped the whole engine down to just the block, and oh my god, the carnage.

Here's the list of destruction: Both rods, both piston heads, both cylinder jugs, the block, the camshaft, and the valve guides are all decimated. Everything except the governor and oil pump gears are all unusable.

Also, my brother cut the stupid cobbled rockshaft off the back of the tractor, and of course, when he did he ground right through the sight tube on the transmission. What size tube is it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: KennyP

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So I ended up with some good and bad things after pulling the steering column out of the 317.
I got almost all the 45 degrees of play out of it and might've fixed the spongy steering. Also fixed the loose tube upper tube.

I had to disassemble the entire middle of the tractor to pull the key switch and column.

The damn steering wheel exploded when I was using a puller on it. The puller broke and completely separated the outer section of the wheel.

Also, this tractor needs new brake return springs, both are broke off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KennyP

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
The return springs are part # S169M. Amazon seems to be the best buy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
An update on the 317. I put the column back in after adjusting it. 0 play in it now. Too bad the last 45 degrees is in the tie rod ends.

Put a new sight tube in. It's actually readable now, unlike the old tube, which is stained brown and blends in with the color of the fluid. Even though I removed it from the bottom tube, there's still fluid in the line. Strange.

We dragged the 317 down to our pump shed with the 330 and hosed it off.

I might just end up converting the K321 I have to magneto ignition, as the points don't fit in the 317 engine mount.

I was going to replace the tie rod ends after getting a motor in, but it now kinda...has a detachable tie rod, so I guess that job's been pushed forward...

So, if you're sitting on the tractor, the right brake goes literally to the floor. Like, the left one goes about 20 or so degrees and then stops, and the right brake goes 45 degrees and hits the left brake pedal. The brakes are also awful at holding the tractor. I'm thinking maybe broken brake shoe or something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
An update on the 317. I put the column back in after adjusting it. 0 play in it now. Too bad the last 45 degrees is in the tie rod ends.

Put a new sight tube in. It's actually readable now, unlike the old tube, which is stained brown and blends in with the color of the fluid. Even though I removed it from the bottom tube, there's still fluid in the line. Strange.

We dragged the 317 down to our pump shed with the 330 and hosed it off.

I might just end up converting the K321 I have to magneto ignition, as the points don't fit in the 317 engine mount.

I was going to replace the tie rod ends after getting a motor in, but it now kinda...has a detachable tie rod, so I guess that job's been pushed forward...

So, if you're sitting on the tractor, the right brake goes literally to the floor. Like, the left one goes about 20 or so degrees and then stops, and the right brake goes 45 degrees and hits the left brake pedal. The brakes are also awful at holding the tractor. I'm thinking maybe broken brake shoe or something?
That ain't good for brakes! I used the pedal assy from a 317 to put turning brakes on my 316. Pics of the linkage may get you some help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The linkages are fine. It's internal, in the drums. The right pedal works, the shoes are fine. I wonder if the shoes on the right pedal are broken on the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Brakes

When I recently did my 420 brakes, which had a very similar problem, I found that the left hand brake return spring was broken from rust, and the hold down spring for a pad was also broken making the whole thing non-functioning. I pulled all the good parts out, cleaned them up, spray painted the metal parts, and bought replacement springs from JD. Put it all back together and then had to adjust the star wheels on both sides so that they were braking evenly. Now I have good functioning brakes. Took me about 2 hours altogether and about $7.00.

Steve.
Rear Tub Removed.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So I went up yesterday to do some work on the 317. I test fit the K321, and it will fit just fine with 1" or maybe 1.5" risers, if the mounts would stay level. I need to make a bar that goes across and holds the mounts together as one cradle instead of two floating mounts. Also one thing that might be concerning is that the driveshaft adapter holes are just barely not drilled centered, so the adapter wanders just a tiny bit.
I pulled the right brake drum off, which took 4 hours. The thing was locked TIGHT on the splined shaft. The rust essentially welded the drum onto the axle shaft. I ended up using a lot of PB blaster, a massive pry bar, and a heavy slide hammer and only then did the drum fly off.

There is 0 pad material left. It's worn halfway through the metal backings. The brakes are not anchored to anything at the bottom, so the one brake shoe moves out just barely and the other shoe moves down, and not outwards like it's supposed to. Guess I need new shoes and a few other parts.

Gotta love using an engine hoist to hold up a tractor even though you have a jack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
So I ended up throwing the drum on temporarily so I can at least move the tractor when I get it going, going to start taking parts off my brother's 140 motor to put on the K321 so I can get it running. He's putting a magnum 14 in the 140 because of a drilling accident with one of the head bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
So I got in a tiny amount of work on the 317.

I got a tube in the front tire. Hopefully it holds. It'll be nice having a tire that rolls instead of just sliding.

Got my fill mod done, it'll make it so much easier to fill the transmission with fluid.

I feel so stupid... I was worried about the fuel tank hitting the hydro fan, but as it turns out, I stupidly test fit the tank without the pump shield. Guess what covers the fan? Why didn't I ever notice that, of all things?

The 321 swap will require no mods except two pieces of square steel and a flat oil pan.

The people on some forums... I'm talking about the k321 and they're like "The 317 didn't have a k321. It had a kt17. Just put a kt17 in it."
And then there are the people saying the KT17 would be the perfect fit, but with the fact that our entire farm is hills, I don't want to go with a KT17.
Maybe I WANT to go with the K321 out of choice, and not necessity?
 
  • Like
Reactions: KennyP
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top