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It wouldn't (or shouldn't) make any difference if it was up in the stowed position, the long driveshaft is held firmly at a set angle by the hitch, it doesn't change it's angle no matter how high you lift the blower. I've observed this when I install the hitch and driveshaft before installing the blower.
The short intermediate driveshaft changes angle but the long one doesn't budge once the hitch is in place.

Edit: I also don't use the blower raised up any more than it needs to be, Im just commenting on the possibility that this caused the OP's issue, if that was what you were inferring.
Your right, it shouldn't make any difference in the raised position, but something is clearly changing on his machine and its likely has to do with the hitch being installed incorrectly or somehow, something has gotten way out of place.

The moving pieces on the 1025r are either the front axle pivoting and the snow blower being lifted on the hitch. There is no angling of the hitch unless he has a plow also and has the angle cylinder for that implement. In any event, those hyd lines should be turning the blowers chute since he isn't angling the hitch.

Otherwise, all of the pieces should be stationary. It shouldn't matter implement position, wheels turned or not and axle pivoting or not. There shouldn't be the serious wear shown, let alone any contact. The wear mark is so uniform in the steering tube, its very likely something moving on the same plane up and down and not left to right as the axle pivots in the center.

Something is terribly amiss, that's for sure. My money is on the hitch being installed incorrectly.

Its hard to visualize it being installed wrong and working, but something has raised the long shaft at least an inch and is causing the rubbing. I am almost tempted to go out and take my QA off and see if it could be installed in incorrect variations.

But I will wait until the OP posts pictures of the snow blower on the tractor, etc. before undertaking forensic work on my machine to figure his out. The OP lives about 75 minutes from me if he gets in a real bind, I am close enough to give him a hand.
 
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Wow, I have never seen anything like that. It is redundant to speculate....but it sure likes like a QH issue to me.

I am guessing and hoping the dealer setup something incorrectly. That cylinder is expensive and hopefully will be covered under warranty.

The larger of the two pins (LVU13765), meaning lack thereof, that holds the main QH to the front hitch is the only thing I could think of that would make anything pivot that much to make contact. The other brackets require bolt holes, etc to line up to be installed at all.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/1668629/referrer/navigation/pgId/505277939
In other words, the QH can still hang on the frame bracket (LVU22047) without the large pin securing it to the FH and it probably wouldn't look that far off to the inexperienced user, ala easy to forget.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/1668629/referrer/navigation/pgId/504595236

I can't recall exactly, but I think my cylinder and shaft are at least 1.0-1.5" apart. That probably changes a small amount under loading, but to make contact would take a serious change in position and there is not much that could do that other than the pivot of the QH, at least in my mind.

The shaft is definitely not bent or everything would have blown apart by now with that much of a bend. The wear is even so it would have to be operating consistently in that position and with some or all of the weight of the blower pushing down on the pivot point and ultimately up on the drive shaft.
 

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Your right, it shouldn't make any difference in the raised position, but something is clearly changing on his machine and its likely has to do with the hitch being installed incorrectly or somehow, something has gotten way out of place.

The moving pieces on the 1025r are either the front axle pivoting and the snow blower being lifted on the hitch. There is no angling of the hitch unless he has a plow also and has the angle cylinder for that implement. In any event, those hyd lines should be turning the blowers chute since he isn't angling the hitch.

Otherwise, all of the pieces should be stationary. It shouldn't matter implement position, wheels turned or not and axle pivoting or not. There shouldn't be the serious wear shown, let alone any contact. The wear mark is so uniform in the steering tube, its very likely something moving on the same plane up and down and not left to right as the axle pivots in the center.

Something is terribly amiss, that's for sure. My money is on the hitch being installed incorrectly.

Its hard to visualize it being installed wrong and working, but something has raised the long shaft at least an inch and is causing the rubbing. I am almost tempted to go out and take my QA off and see if it could be installed in incorrect variations.

But I will wait until the OP posts pictures of the snow blower on the tractor, etc. before undertaking forensic work on my machine to figure his out. The OP lives about 75 minutes from me if he gets in a real bind, I am close enough to give him a hand.
I'm willing to bet the OP's quick hitch isn't attached to the tractor on the top, just the bottom, and the only thing that kept it from rolling right under the tractor was the poor driveshaft hitting the steering cylinder...
 

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The only way this shaft contact with the steering cylinder could have happened is if the bracket (LVA22590) has pivoted down from horizontal with respect to the frame. If the SCV is pushed forward maximally short of float, the front axil and frame will ordinarily lift with the mmm shaft remaining relatively horizontal. If the bracket assy. (LVA22590) is allowed to pivot down during that procedure, the mmm shaft gets driven upward. It is likely that the OP is missing or has sheered the two bolts frontmost on the slotted jaw attachment plates.
 

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The only way this shaft contact with the steering cylinder could have happened is if the bracket (LVA22590) has pivoted down from horizontal with respect to the frame. If the SCV is pushed forward maximally short of float, the front axil and frame will ordinarily lift with the mmm shaft remaining relatively horizontal. If the bracket assy. (LVA22590) is allowed to pivot down during that procedure, the mmm shaft gets driven upward. It is likely that the OP is missing or has sheered the two bolts frontmost on the slotted jaw attachment plates.
Along the same line of thinking, I studied my 1025 this morning (picture below), and I wonder if the slotted mounting plates are even there at all, or installed correctly.
If the hitch was hung from the top but the 2 lower pins were not held in place by the mounting plates, it could pivot backwards and push the driveshaft into the steering cylinder....
776288
 
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Some movement of the QH is the only thing which makes sense to me. How and why? Who knows, I have seen all sorts of things done incorrectly over the years.

I sure hope that DD2000 reports back. As I stated, he is within an hours drive from me and I would gladly jump in the SUV and go see if I could help him. I lived in the same town where he now resides for about 15 years........so I know it well.

I also hope he understands our comments are not judging him in any way. Regardless of how the situation happened, it needs to be resolved. That means replacing the steering cylinder for sure, correcting whatever is allowing the movement which led to the contact and inspecting the driveshaft and likely its replacement.

I might have a brand new driveshaft which I could sell him for less than the dealer. I would want to double check but I could save him at least $100 over buying new and the shaft I have is brand new and never installed. I got a good deal on the drive line pieces and I would pass along that deal to help him out.

Main thing is to remedy the issue which permits the contact and replace the damaged items. Its not about placing blame or highlighting the mistakes which might have led to this happening..............

What's done is done, now, let's fix it. If I can help, I am willing......
 

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The steering cylinder varies based upon the tractors serial number. This has come up when some have noticed their rubber boots on the end of the cylinders were torn or damaged and one cylinder style has the boots available and one cylinder does not have the boots available separately.

Here are screen shots of the steering cylinder and the front PTO shaft. Note the serial number range shown. Since the OP joined GTT in 2018, I am wondering if that's the age of his machine as well. 2018 was in the date range of some of the other serial number specific changes to the 1025r..............

View attachment 776168 View attachment 776169
One thing for sure, the steering cylinder is going to need to be replaced.

Depending upon the machines serial number, the cost varies widely (roughly 25%). Also, like so many of the illustrations, I have noticed that the machines with the higher (newer) serial numbers look at the parts illustrations from the opposite side of the part as does the same part on a earlier serial number machine.

Not sure why Deere spent the time and money to illustrate all of these views in a different way from those already done, but the entire parts book for the newer machines is laid out differently and in my opinion, harder to use and find things in for some applications.

Illustration for the machine with the serial number 100001 and higher......(newer machines, mostly 2018 and newer time period although some very late 2017's seem to be in this range.)

View attachment 776181


This is the "Cart View" you get when you select the earlier machines, like my 2017. Following this is the screen which shows the part being replaced or subsituted with this new part number of LVA23453 which replaced the LVA17418 part number.

View attachment 776182

This is the view for the 2017 and prior machines. No price or final part number shown, they are in the screen shot shown above this sentence.

View attachment 776183
What I noticed; is the newer serial number machines have the steering cylinder on the left side, and earlier serial number machines have the steering cylinder on the right side.
What side does the PTO shaft run down? Assuming the right, maybe, that's why JD moved the cylinder to the left side.
I do not have one of these tractors/snow blowers to confirm.
 
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What I noticed; is the newer serial number machines have the steering cylinder on the left side, and earlier serial number machines have the steering cylinder on the right side.
What side does the PTO shaft run down? Assuming the right, maybe, that's why JD moved the cylinder to the left side.
I do not have one of these tractors/snow blowers to confirm.
The illustrations are shown from different angles on the two machines, but both are on the same side. The long steering tie rod is on the front side of the axles on both machines, its just the illustrations are shown from different perspectives, one from the front side of the axle and the other from the back side of the axle. So while it gives the appearance of the cylinder being on the other side, its actually on the same side, which is the left side when sitting on the tractor.

I know the illustrations are computer renderings, but whey they felt the need to change the perspective on so many of the illustrations is just one of the many questions I have about the new parts manual, etc.......

Note the direction of travel arrow in each illustration, that will help explain what I am talking about on the perspectives.......
 
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Along the same line of thinking, I studied my 1025 this morning (picture below), and I wonder if the slotted mounting plates are even there at all, or installed correctly.
If the hitch was hung from the top but the 2 lower pins were not held in place by the mounting plates, it could pivot backwards and push the driveshaft into the steering cylinder....
View attachment 776288
Sounds similar to this problem with a Quick Hitch plow setup.

 
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It sure would be good to hear back from the OP...I think you guys have it figured out.
 

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The illustrations are shown from different angles on the two machines, but both are on the same side. The long steering tie rod is on the front side of the axles on both machines, its just the illustrations are shown from different perspectives, one from the front side of the axle and the other from the back side of the axle. So while it gives the appearance of the cylinder being on the other side, its actually on the same side, which is the left side when sitting on the tractor.

I know the illustrations are computer renderings, but whey they felt the need to change the perspective on so many of the illustrations is just one of the many questions I have about the new parts manual, etc.......

Note the direction of travel arrow in each illustration, that will help explain what I am talking about on the perspectives.......
OOPS! :sick: I did NOT follow the dashed lines showing how it hooked to the axle on the second drawing, it LOOKED like it showed it to be on the right side, MY BAD
 
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OOPS! :sick: I did NOT follow the dashed lines showing how it hooked to the axle on the second drawing, it LOOKED like it showed it to be on the right side, MY BAD

It SHappens. Don't worry about it.

Actually, It SHappens is my user name on another tractor forum........sort of a play on the "**It Happens" saying......
[/QUO
 

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It sure would be good to hear back from the OP...I think you guys have it figured out.
You mean "Us Guys", don't you? ;)
 

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What happened to the OP? I sure hope it is sorted out.
 

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The quick attach setup shown in AJgrn's photo above is different from my 2014 1025R's (LVA22590) which is illustrated in the 2nd link to the parts catalog in JPmst3's #22 post above. The photo shows a beefier 4 bolt attachment to the frame for the much longer slotted jaw. It appears to cure what I described in #25.
 

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You mean "Us Guys", don't you? ;)
Haha, true... I try to stay humble.

One thing's for sure...these kinds of posts encourage me to inspect my tractor!
 

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The quick attach setup shown in AJgrn's photo above is different from my 2014 1025R's (LVA22590) which is illustrated in the 2nd link to the parts catalog in JPmst3's #22 post above. The photo shows a beefier 4 bolt attachment to the frame for the much longer slotted jaw. It appears to cure what I described in #25.
I didn't even realize they had changed, my 1025 is a 2015.
Those longer plates are for my mid mower, I discovered (thanks to this site) that if I got some longer bolts, I can keep the mounting plates for the quick hitch AND the mid mower on the tractor all the time and they don't interfere. Game changer!
 
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