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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have another JD, this one no spark. I have checked coil and ohms out where it is supposed to as near as I can figure. I read that usually it is the ignition module but if that is unplugged from the coil I should get a spark. I cleaned the magnet and set the air gap still nothing, not even a weak spark so I am beginning to think that perhaps the coil is actually bad despite testing. With recent experience with JD I wonder if they have engineered the engine to need the ignition module to fire.
 

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Kawasaki technical manuals are free online.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They don’t appear to be all that technical. “No spark then replace this, then this, then this.” Could be twenty reasons for no spark so I guess by replacing parts until I happen upon the right one sounds like a dealer strategy.
 

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They don’t appear to be all that technical. “No spark then replace this, then this, then this.” Could be twenty reasons for no spark so I guess by replacing parts until I happen upon the right one sounds like a dealer strategy.
They tell you how to test every component
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe I have the wrong site. I downloaded something from Kawasaki site but may be wrong. Can you provide a link please? It would help if I could test
 

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Maybe I have the wrong site. I downloaded something from Kawasaki site but may be wrong. Can you provide a link please? It would help if I could test
Are you charging a customer ?

It doesn’t really matter, you apparently like doing repairs, so I’ll teach you how to fish. If you want grilled salmon delivery you can pay someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is my own tractor, so no I am not charging anyone but nevermind, it seems to be to much effort to get a question answered and then have to cower to someone's own perceived superior intellect. I am quite capable of teaching myself to fish and I haven't starved yet.
 

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When you checked the coil, did you ohm out the primary and secondary coils? Also, check plug wire as they have been known to fail...and spark plug too! Plug could be fouled and shorting directly out! If engine has points, verify opening and closing. Also if points, put volt meter on - side of coil and crank. You should have volts, then none, then volts. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you, yes I checked the coil with an ohm meter. Appears to be good, also checked plug wire, switched plug still nothing. No points on this one, just the ignition module of which I suspect. I get about 1.2 ohm's but not 100% sure of what it should be, those are expensive so I didn't want to buy one and it turn out to be something else.
 

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Looking online for "FB460V wring", it looks pretty simple! flywheel, coil, wire, and spark plug! I'm thinking you should have a wire to ground out coil to stop engine. Can this be removed? Maybe ign switch is bad and kill wire is constantly connected to ground ??? Just throwing some thoughts out! Bob
 

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Another long shot, is magnet fell off of flywheel. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well here is where it gets different, Magnet is good, air gap is set to .014, all cleaned up. Normally removing the ground wire will be the test and it should fire the plug. I am told JD engineered their version of the Kawasaki different then all the others and that will not work. If you look up the coil it is a different part number and Kawasaki will tell you only that one will work and it only is sold through JD. I assume everything could be changed, coil, igniter both but knowing what I know now they probably have it wired so that wouldn't work either.
 

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Just trying to give you ideas that you maybe didn't think of ! I tried!!!! Bob
 

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How about this:

779053

You said you got 1.2 ohms and I'm assuming that's primary windings, so that's a little high. If secondary windings, too low! I think (??) primary is 0.4-0.8 ohms. Bob
 
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