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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have an older John Deere 210C loader/backhoe.

I was using it with the loader to move the snow in my driveway and I started to notice that periodically when I was in reverse and going to forward it would not always kick in right away. Then it just wouldn't go into forward at all. I put the machine in neutral, turn it off, restart the engine (how long it was off doesn't matter), put it in forward and away I'd go. I don't use it a lot and over a few months of intermittent use it progressively got worse in a couple of ways. It would start doing it sometimes while I was moving (almost like it was slipping) and also it started doing it much more frequently to the point where every time I was in reverse and try to go forward it would have to restart the engine. Now when I put it in forward it just kind of rolls a little forward. I am not sure if reverse is starting to slip now or if it just my brain playing tricks on me but it always goes in reverse without a problem. It also doesn't really matter if it is hot or cold.

Any help would be great.

Darren
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh boy, no takers on this one? I think I may be in trouble! :laugh:

I have been researching and I think it may have something to do with the Reverser Control Valve (JD Part#AT101453 pictured in below image on left) or the Actuator/Solenoid (JD Part#AT101493 pictured in below image on right) that is attached to it. I have been trying to take the solenoid off but I'm not having much luck. I take the nut off the end of it but it doesn't seem to want to come off. Does anybody know it if the solenoid comes off separately from the plunger or is it all one piece that comes off at once?

Darren

Reverser Control Valve.jpg Actuator - Solenoid.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I finally got the solenoid off and removed the Reverser Control Valve. I couldn't see any signs of damage to anything.

20140218_182823.jpg and 20140218_182843.jpg

I did not completely disassemble the Reverser Control Valve but it seems that all the springs worked properly and the passages seemed clear. So I put it all back together but it seems that the problem remains.

I am just wondering about the operation of the solenoid plunger. In it's normal state is the plunger pushing in on the valve and pull out when it is activated or is the plunger pushed in when the solenoid is activated?

Starting to get a little frustrated here so I am really hoping to get some insight from somebody.
 

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I wish I could help DB, but I am just not familiar with this class of machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Victory!!! I think...

It finally warmed up here a little bit (-10F :snow: is a bit too cold to work outside and 40F :cool: is much better) so I crawled under the machine and this is what I found.

I took the reverser control valve completely apart where I checked and cleaned all the internal springs and pistons. Everything looked good there, all the springs had good tension & no cracks or anything and the pistons didn't have any scoring. I then drained all the oil out and pulled off the bottom drain pan. Inside I found the screen for the oil pick up was dirty so I pulled it off and completely cleaned it with degreaser and blew it all out with compressed air. I also found a congealed bunch of goo floating around in the reservoir as well which I thought was odd. I pulled it out and cleaned it with degreaser as well and it was the magnetic puck. I figure that it had built up with so much debris and dislodged from the wall of the reservoir and started to move freely around the pan partially clogging the oil pickup screen. I reinstalled everything and put new John Deere oil in it and took it for a run up and down the driveway and it worked great. I did a load test in 1st gear by putting the bucket up against a stump and there was no bogging at all, the tires just started spinning turning up the gravel. I also loaned the machine out to a neighbour and (other then running out of diesel) he said it worked really well with tons of power.

So as far as I can tell this issue is now closed.

Hope my post helps anyone else with this problem.

Happy digging everyone...
Cheers
 

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How did you pull the reverser control valve out?
My in-laws backhoe isn't going into forward so want to check that the valve is clear.

Also how do you get the cover back on without the ball bearing piping out of the spring.

I'm new to working on tractors, so sorry for the possibly easy answers.

Thanks.
-Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry Eysfilm, I have barely been on the computer lately and I didn't get an email with your question. Did you get your answers?

If not this is how I got it out.

1. Make sure you immobilize the machine. Set the parking brake, drop the stabilizers & bucket & backhoe and just for kickers block the tires as well. You don't want this machine rolling while your climbing under it.
2. Remove the Actuator and washer. First, disconnect the 2 prong plug for the actuator. The actuator is screwed onto the Reverser Control Valve. You can see the large threads on Post #3 on this thread. Using a large wrench you simply unscrew the Actuator off. It may be tight and the reverser may spin on you but it will come off.
3. Slide the shifter linkage bracket off the Reverser Control Valve.
4. Remove the Snap Ring recessed behind the Actuator threads. You cannot use a regular snap ring tool with the little round ends. This Snap Ring doesn't have the holes on either end and it is a bit more of a heavy duty snap ring. You need a special Snap Ring removal tool with flat ends on it like this one:
https://store.snapon.com/Snap-Ring-Pliers-Pliers-Snap-Ring-90-176-Angle-Jaws-8-7-8-long-P744934.aspx
Trust me, they will save a tonne of aggravation!
5. On the other side of the Reverser remove the Dipstick Tube. Depending on how much oil there is in the Reverser and how level the machine is there may be spillage, you may need to drain some oil. Loosen the clamp on the hose connected to the Dipstick Tube and disconnect the hose. With a large wrench just unscrew the Dipstick Tube out of the housing. Stuff a rag into the open hole. You don't want anything from the next step falling in!
6. Remove the Neutral Switch Cam. Disconnect 2 prong plug on the Cam Housing. Remove the 2 bolts holding the cover on but don't just pull off the cover... underneath there is a spring and a ball bearing that you cannot lose. Try and be careful with the gasket too, they are nla and you will have to make a new one if you damage it. Carefully take off the cover keeping your hand underneath to catch the ball bearing. The spring should stay in the housing. Then remove the Neutral Switch Cam, it will just pop off the end of the Control Valve.
7. Back on the other side of the Reverser put a block of wood against the Reverser Control Valve and lightly tap it. The valve will pop out on the other side of the Reverser and just slide it out and Voila, it is done!

Getting it back in is just the reverse of taking it out. However the tricky part is with that stupid ball bearing on the reverser cam! It is much easier with an extra set of hands. First you have to set the Neutral Switch Cam in the correct position which has a groove on the back preventing you from installing it wrong. Then put the spring in the housing cover. I found that a little petroleum jelly or Vaseline on the other end of the spring makes the ball bearing stick and you can place the housing over the cam. The second set of hands can then install the bolts for the housing making your job a heck of a lot easier.

I did this a while ago and I think that I covered all the steps correctly. I hope you got your machine working but PM me if you still have problems, I am kind of new at working on tractors too after buying this machine just over a year ago but I am learning a lot.
 
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