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Good Afternoon! This is my first time posting to this forum. However, when Googling issues about my JD 214 or L-111, I have found postings on this forum that have been extremely informative and helpful! I am somewhat mechanically inclined but am pretty inexperienced when it comes to diagnosing electrical issues (other than charging a battery, cleaning battery posts and cables) but I am willing to dig in and learn.

Anyway, I am having some issues with the JD 214. The S/N # on the frame is:M00214X317799. The engine information is: Model: 321AQ3, Spec. # 60318. The engine S/N # is hard to read but appears to be: 1504673_. BTW, I have an Operator's (not service) manual for the 214. One issue is the neutral safety switch. For years, I have had to move the shifter back and forth to get the engine to turn over. Now, no matter how I move the shifter now, I cannot get it to turn over. I should note that the 214 had been stored in doors until the last 1.5 years when my son had it and it was outside in the rain and snow. Last Fall when I picked the unit up and brought it home, it wouldn't turn over (neutral safety switch issue, I assume) or start. While it was on the trailer for a couple of days I sprayed some carb cleaner onto the handle and towards the transmission and let it sit a day and it did turn over, started and ran for a few seconds. It would not start again so I just pushed it into the garage where it has sat until now. When trying it in the last few days, I cannot get it to turn over. I am wondering if something transmission related rusted from sitting outside. What I would like to use the 214 for, primarily, is to blow snow in the winter and to pull a little trailer behind it for yard clean up.

Earlier today, I charged the battery and cleaned the battery posts and cables. Still nothing. So I was going to move on to looking at the neutral safety switch. I started working on taking the seat off and the left black handle would not budge. I ended up breaking the black handle. I tried putting a vice grip on the nut that was in the black handle and it will not budge (I assume the pressure from the vice grip isn't helping.). Now, I can hear something turning that sounds like it is in the gas tank. Because of this turning, I cannot get any leverage to break the nut and bolt loose from each other. I thought about cutting the bolt but don't how I could then tighten the front left of the seat in the future. I thought about using heat on the nut but won't do that without pumping gas out of the tank first. I wasn't expecting an issue with the seat but then Murphy's Law intervened (LOL). I am stumped at this point regarding the best long-term solution/action.

Once I can get the seat off, I also have an issue (in addition to the apparent neutral safety switch) with the 214 that the last time that it ran for any period of time, it would run for 15 minutes and then sputter and eventually die. Then, when it had cooled down it would run again. So, based on the great posts I saw in this forum, I was going to take the gas tank off/drain it/check it for debris/clean out the fuel hose filter for any potential blockage, clean the carburetor, check the gas cap (new about 1.5 years ago. I think the battery is ok and appears to charge normally. However, as I noted earlier in this post I am very inexperienced on the electrical issues side. Then, I plan on moving on to a new coil and potentially a new condensor. Based on my intended use for this machine and it's age, I don't want to spend a ton of money on it. I am willing to spend up to $300-$500 on it. I do have some time to play around with it and see what I can do and hopefully have my time get it running well once again. I would like to keep it if I can get it running again because it is a tank and well built compared to my L-111.

I appreciate any comments/suggestions you may have! I apologize for this post being so long!
 

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While no one condones removal of safety switches, here is a wiring diagram so you can
troubleshoot your issues:

Screenshot from 2020-05-03 05-19-20.jpg
 
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I generally leave the seat on when I remove the fender pan. It’s still not easy to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip! I appreciate your help!
I am finally getting back to working on my 214. It has been 3 months, sorry! I tried getting it to turnover today and was not successful. I move the shifter back and forth in the neutral position quickly which used to be the ticket but that does not work currently. Anyway, I was able to remove the fender pan today and obtain access to the gas tank and transmission area. I cleaned up the machine the best I could from the steering wheel back. I also removed the filter from the gas tank and cleaned that. I also plan on painting the fender well and changing the transmission fluid while the fender is off.

I am done for the day but would appreciate any recommended best next steps to try to get it to turnover. I plan on working on this periodically during the next week. The battery appears to be charged. Does it make sense to remove the neutral safety switch to see if I can get it to turn over? Is it not turning over because of an electrical issue related to the safety switch (I cleaned the safety switch connections also today.) or some other electrical issue? Could a bad coil or condenser have anything to do with this problem? Other?

Thanks! All ideas/thoughts are greatly appreciated!
 

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Coil & Condenser will not allow it to run. They will not prevent it from turning over. I would make sure it is in neutral and then run a jumper from the battery to the purple wire on the starter. This will bypass the Neutral safety switch and the PTO Switch. If it rolls over, I would then move the jumper to the PTO Switch testing at both purple wires, if this works, move to the Neutral Safety Switch again testing at both wires, if this works, all that is left is the Ignition Switch. By doing it this way, you test all the components and the wiring in the system. It only has three switches and some wires If it doesn't pass the first test you have a Starter problem.
 

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If this 214 is the manual PTO model, there is a safety switch (micro switch) in the back of the dash panel actuated by the PTO lever. My 212 occasionally does not respond to the key switch. Pushing up on the lever slightly lets it crank. Why haven't I fixed it? I dunno! Pretty ornery place to get to. This started after I adjusted the PTO linkage to solve a sticking PTO clutch.
The same machine would also occasionally not activate the starter. Pushing on the cable where it attaches to the starter stud would make it crank. I did fix that after finding the solder joint at the lug was loose. It was hidden under the rubber insulator. New cable fixed that. Just a couple other things to look at.

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Coil & Condenser will not allow it to run. They will not prevent it from turning over. I would make sure it is in neutral and then run a jumper from the battery to the purple wire on the starter. This will bypass the Neutral safety switch and the PTO Switch. If it rolls over, I would then move the jumper to the PTO Switch testing at both purple wires, if this works, move to the Neutral Safety Switch again testing at both wires, if this works, all that is left is the Ignition Switch. By doing it this way, you test all the components and the wiring in the system. It only has three switches and some wires If it doesn't pass the first test you have a Starter problem.
Thanks Sundancer268 this info. is very helpful. I will try your recommendations soon. I did buy and installed a new battery today. The other one did not pass testing. With the new battery installed and charged, all I still hear is a click when turning the key. I am currently cleaning different parts of the machine and repairing and replacing some other needed items like both hoses for the hydraulic fluid tank. I also cleaned the carb. today and need to reinstall it once I have looked up the turns for the high and low speed screws. It seemed to be in very good shape. I have experience cleaning carbs on snowmobiles... The welding torch tip cleaners work great on the carbs! After I reinstall the carb, I am going to work on your suggestions along with additional cleaning and painting. I will post on how it goes. It appears that the electrical issue(s) are going to be the biggest issue(s) to resolve and get it running again..

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If this 214 is the manual PTO model, there is a safety switch (micro switch) in the back of the dash panel actuated by the PTO lever. My 212 occasionally does not respond to the key switch. Pushing up on the lever slightly lets it crank. Why haven't I fixed it? I dunno! Pretty ornery place to get to. This started after I adjusted the PTO linkage to solve a sticking PTO clutch.
The same machine would also occasionally not activate the starter. Pushing on the cable where it attaches to the starter stud would make it crank. I did fix that after finding the solder joint at the lug was loose. It was hidden under the rubber insulator. New cable fixed that. Just a couple other things to look at.

tommyhawk
Thanks tommyhawk, I will check the PTO micro switch out. Yes, this machine has a manual PTO toggle switch. Great tip, I never knew about that! I am also going to clean and lightly sand the contacts for all the switches when I am going through Sundancer268's recommendations. Thanks again, I appreciate it!
 
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