[vuylsteke.steven]

another hour in the gymnastic GS2 cabin ! They didn't leave any space unused. So to find that little connector ( nr 14 ) I had to fold myself triple. But I found it !
I personally guess this is to be connect with my number ' I ' from the picture. Since this is the hi-lo controle valve part. So I would think this is the only place where signal to this turtle light can be coming from ? but I can be wrong. the other cable ' ll ' didnt receive any purpose yet, but it does lead to left dash controle panel ( 6 > 7 > 13 ( diagram is wrong and only wrote 1 ) > 9 > 10 .

I will probably be able to test it when I get the dash back in place and run it under power.
but the more I think, the more it seems that I am wrong... but then the turtle signal light need to come direct from one of the main boom lines and the connector which is on now has been agan aftermarket....
anyway, tomorrow I am in for an eye operation, maybe I see much more clear after that

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Never give up,
so I've been breaking my head about it going over the electric plans.
You must be correct. The ' II ' must be connected to the connector that I discovered today. That means gymnastics again.
The number ' I ' is postive or ground for the HI-LI tortoise light. That must come on the correct place in the boom. So I need to measure this time from the controle panel towards the boom to find its correct position. The sending unit for this HI-LI tortoise light must then be ( in my opion ) the connector seen on the first picture and on the technical drawing, on the picture with a black and green connector plus the old brown wiring. why the previous owner putted a different connector on and taped it shut is a mysterie, but I assume he didn't had the service manual to figure it all out and as the tractor was working, he could not be bothered.

I hope I can give it a test somewhere this week. Monday and Thursday is doctor time and I don't know how it will go with recovery.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Every hour I find the time, I try to dive into one of the little things that have to be done.
So I have glued the original fabric back to the forms. Also added the new sound insulation where it was needed and it seems to all hold up ok. Due to shrink I had to patch a 10cm corner on the cabin roofliner with some other spare stuff from the doorpanel. A slight different shade, but thats not the end of the world in an old beast like this.
I had to remake the board that holds the liner and roof instruments in place and that worked out pretty nice.
All cables have been reconnected and 2 extra switches have been installed on the board ( one for the front working lights, one for the rear ) All these extras come from a straight feed of the battery with their own fuse )
Today I put the first print back into the steering column and that was the end of my time
I do need to buy some new screws to secure the plastic dash in place on the frame, it seems like that those screws were not even on when I took it apart, because they are not in any of my boxes with parts.
New main battery cables (plus and negative) and connecters arrived too, I just need to krimp some O connectors on to connect them with the starter.

Its been a great progress so far and I learned already a lot along the way about this serie!
Can't wait for it to blow some smoke again on start up.

next on the list after the dash is in place and the electrics work is of course to test if it runs again.
on to that will be switching the coolant. Flushing the system a few times incl cleaner, before adding the JD cool gard stuff.
Then I go on with new oil and filter, before diving in the big works of checking out the brakes ...

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

And the progress continues day by day.
All electrics have been changed and the instrument panels with the print plates are installed!
With a small heart I turned over the key and instant start ! Not bad after standing still for almost 2 months and being in outside temperatures of -5 degrees Celsius.
So the beast is driving again and all controle lights on the dash work as they were suppose to do. Which I find really nice.

I then continued with some small stuff that had to be taken care off.
A bottom part was cut out at some point in life and welded with a few points. I took it off to rewire down there and now I welded (crappy welded ) some wings on the original plate so it sits nicely in place and will be bolted down. It did receive some coats of black paint after I took the initial picture

Rubber cover of the air seat had been placed back onto the frame. That was a hassle, but with the help of a hairdryer the piece did fold back to its place!
Now I'm working on the roofliner again, so the plastic panels of the cabin filters will fit to their original place. So far the liner does not want to sit good. Maybe I added a bit to much foam, so I'll take it down again. Easiest would be by taking the side brackets of, but those screws are rusted in place. And I would need to take the windows down to reach in properly with a screwdriver.

two other questions I have.
first I thought of maybe fitting a oil catch can, to prevent further dirt getting blown into the system again. Would it be this hose seen on the picture ( the small greasy one?

second question.
I have been looking into all the books I have. but I can't seem to figure out what this arm is for
it is positioned on the right side. Its the warm pointed up in the picture with nothing connected to it.

further another shopping list has been sent.
new front indicators, some seals and engine oil cleaner

 

[JD4430]

And the progress continues day by day.
All electrics have been changed and the instrument panels with the print plates are installed!
With a small heart I turned over the key and instant start ! Not bad after standing still for almost 2 months and being in outside temperatures of -5 degrees Celsius.
So the beast is driving again and all controle lights on the dash work as they were suppose to do. Which I find really nice.
View attachment 941638
I then continued with some small stuff that had to be taken care off.
A bottom part was cut out at some point in life and welded with a few points. I took it off to rewire down there and now I welded (crappy welded ) some wings on the original plate so it sits nicely in place and will be bolted down. It did receive some coats of black paint after I took the initial picture
View attachment 941639
Rubber cover of the air seat had been placed back onto the frame. That was a hassle, but with the help of a hairdryer the piece did fold back to its place!
Now I'm working on the roofliner again, so the plastic panels of the cabin filters will fit to their original place. So far the liner does not want to sit good. Maybe I added a bit to much foam, so I'll take it down again. Easiest would be by taking the side brackets of, but those screws are rusted in place. And I would need to take the windows down to reach in properly with a screwdriver.

two other questions I have.
first I thought of maybe fitting a oil catch can, to prevent further dirt getting blown into the system again. Would it be this hose seen on the picture ( the small greasy one?
View attachment 941636

second question.
I have been looking into all the books I have. but I can't seem to figure out what this arm is for
it is positioned on the right side. Its the warm pointed up in the picture with nothing connected to it.
View attachment 941637


further another shopping list has been sent.
new front indicators, some seals and engine oil cleaner

Mine are open station but I have switched most of the dash bulbs to led. I'm sure while you were working on it you found that some were black and maybe even some melted plastic. With how old these tractors are any stress you can take off of the electrical system and reduce the heat is a good thing. Bonus is they are much brighter than the oem bulbs.

 

[ttazzman]

air seat?

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

air seat?

mine was given a Grammer air suspension seat. Probably some years after it came out. Works ok, just need to give it a power source and a switch. ( switch because I don't know if it stops on its own when pressure is made. And I don't want to burn out the pump. So rather manually activate and deactivate when it is needed. )

Today the box with bolts and screw arrived, because the metric stuff I can buy in the local hardwareshop does not fit the threads.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

have switched most of the dash bulbs to led

I asked the friend who repaired the modules to do so, but he adviced not to do so due to current flow and LEDs. So he put a new set of bulbs in and they are just fine and bright. only 1 was gone out of 20 or so.
As everything has been rewired where needed I guess electric issues will now only appear one by one. So i can talke them systematically when needed.

 

[flyweight]

second question.
I have been looking into all the books I have. but I can't seem to figure out what this arm is for. It is positioned on the right side. Its the warm pointed up in the picture with nothing connected to it.
View attachment 941637

Maybe, to add an additional Selective Control Valve (SCV)???

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Maybe, to add an additional Selective Control Valve (SCV)???

possible. I will try to figure out where it runs to. for now I just could not point it anywhere in the books and hoped someone was familiar with it

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

So today was another day putting pieces back in place and flushing the radiator.
First flush of the radiator is done, one or two more will be performed until it gets nice 'clean' water back out.
roofliner back in place for the 3th time. This time I did detach the side rails first, which hold the thing in place. Also gave it a coat of black while they were down.
steering column got its cover again. Only bottom part missing, because I painted the bolts black just before taking the picture

flyweight, you were right on the SCV. I checked around and on the righthand column there is the position for a 3th lever, which then can be connected to that rod! mysterie solved.

Also a oil catch can is not needed, because I found out it has a straight pipe down the chassis to get rid of the fumes.

What was added on the list today :
1 radiator cap, 1 thermostat sensor, 1 thermostat, 1 thermostat gasket, some other gaskets and a new oil filter.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

so we continue.
but with a headscrather
I order the pieces for the radiator and I run into 2 problems.
1st I changed the temp gauge for the radiator, because the old one jumped from nothing to high. I did not look how long it took before ordering a new one, but on installing the new piece I did take notice of how long it takes before it changes/ jumps. And so it goes again from nothing to over max in 2-3 minutes. Way before the temperature water is at 80 degrees.
I do check the temp on the block and pipes with a laser thermometer just so i had an idea of what the actual temps were.
so I suspect it has to do with faulty wiring ( again, or just some crack in the insulation of the wire. ) can I be correct on that ? Because the wire leading to the gauge is a the positive charged 12v.

2nd
I have drained the original fluid
I have flushed it a first time with radiator cleaner, that is when I noticed the original gauge on max
I flushed the 2nd and 3th time with a new gauge and both times with cleaner added
and the result looks like on the picture.
I notice there is still lots of slurry/muck/grease whatever you want to call it on top of the distillated water.
Can this be from the cleaner still making stuff loose ? I disconnected the bottom radiator pipe when finishing the last flush and that thing does have some muck on the bottom.
- I also checked the oil level and that remains at the same level a mm under max and it does not show signs of mixture (milky color ) or at least not on the dipstick.

To continue I first ask here for some opinions, so I don't damage anything.
Me, I think to flush a few more rounds with pure water now and see what that gives as a result.

edit :
the paper I dipped in on the top of the radiator reservoir, just as I did with my finger.
I used the white paper to try and give a better contrast of how it looks.
I will add a shot of the 3 flush runs, as I have taken a sample of each while it was draining.
left is the original liquid that was in and then we go to the right with 3times flush with cleaner
on all 3 flush runs you notice a ring on top of the cup, this is only sticking to the outside of the cup and is not a full layer on top of the water.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

So I have flushed all the cleaner out with some extra bottles of distillated water and I am fine with the end result color.
The muck that came out is the 'oily' substance that is part of the cooling liquid. It is not as bad as other tractor owners I know

the problem with the temperature sensor and gauge is still not over.
I have followed all the youtube steps I could find and it seems I might have just got a wrong temp sensor or there is a problem with the gauge ( but then one that is not described in the youtube videos I viewed ) The sensor I bought is the correct OEM part according to the manual.

step one > connect sensor wire with the negative terminal while key is switched to on ( not run ) : gauge shows full. correct.
Step two > release the negative wire, gauge returns to low : correct

step three > connect temp sensor with the signal wire ( positive charged wire ) and turn key on : gauge shows nothing
step four > put some heat on the sensor, in this case I just held it with my fingers and this was already enough to make the gauge jump to high. When I did release it returned to 0 after a few seconds

So this made me believe that my new sensor is not correct. Before when I was running it in the engine block it did not return to 0, because it was already hotter then what I now tested with my body temperature. And of course the engine block already took some minimal heat during the test.

Step five > ohm testing the piece. But I can not find any specs on this model temp sensor. What I did find out is that on room temp it has about 0.53 on the 20K scale. when it was outside ( aprox 5 degrees Celsius ) it was about 0.7 on the 20K scale.
The tests I could find on pieces used in a car showed may higher readings on room temperature, which made me believe the sensor is not correct.

So who of you is a bit more familiar with this matter or can confirm me that my investigation is going the correct way


mechanical progress , I figured out why the PTO lever is not staying in place. or atleast the first part why it is not.
A small bearing that sits on the lever is missing. That should normally ride on a template and rests when in position number 16-17 on the picture. I hope installing those pieces will do the trick and I don't have to dig further in those lower parts. To bad I do not find the sizes of that part, else my dad in lawn would turn them at work.
So if one of you would have his cab open and can put a measurement in there, that would also be a great help

 

[Zebrafive]

Go back one page in the parts catalog.
Lever 13 (from the page you show), connects to lever 16 inside cover 4 (parts catalog, one page back)
The balls, key 12 detent in the holes of lever 16 to hold the PTO engaged or disengaged.

 

[JD4430]

Your gauge issue. Do you have a JD service manual and all supplementals to it if any. There will be testing procedures for both the gauge and sensor

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Go back one page in the parts catalog.
Lever 13 (from the page you show), connects to lever 16 inside cover 4 (parts catalog, one page back)
The balls, key 12 detent in the holes of lever 16 to hold the PTO engaged or disengaged.

aha ok. that is a big step forward in helping me on the way.
So somewhere in there on those parts could be the issue. meaning changing parts. any idea which partsnumbers of the shema will probably be worn / missing ?

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Your gauge issue. Do you have a JD service manual and all supplementals to it if any. There will be testing procedures for both the gauge and sensor

jup I bought them after buying the tractor. I will dig into that 1000+ manual again to see what it writes. I could not find it on a first scroll and even with the help of this 'ask piloot' function it doesn't direct my instant to the piece I'm looking for. but, I will try again

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

jup I bought them after buying the tractor. I will dig into that 1000+ manual again to see what it writes. I could not find it on a first scroll and even with the help of this 'ask piloot' function it doesn't direct my instant to the piece I'm looking for. but, I will try again

so after scrolling through the 320 hits of Gauge and all hits on sensor I could not find any extra info in the manuals.
to refer to the youtube video I checked on a car sensor, the room temperature stated original specs should be around 9420 (8560 ohm Youtube test). and around 177 in boiling water ( youtube test came out on 350ohm ) This are way bigger differences then what I have on my new sensor. Or my gauge must be super sensitive, which I doubt on a 40year old tractor.
but I reached out to the supplier and they will sent me a replacement from a different company to rule out a faulty batch. So fingers crossed on that one.
And digging in these Ohm values, it also explained while with the sensor mounted on the engine, it took 1-2minutes before it suddenly shoot up to max and dropped when I put the contact off. but when putting the contact on again it went straight to max again, due to the coolant staying in this modest temp range, but high enough for the ohms to drop and to engage the gauge.
well, that is lots learned on a 45min work session today

 

[Zebrafive]

aha ok. that is a big step forward in helping me on the way.
So somewhere in there on those parts could be the issue. meaning changing parts. any idea which partsnumbers of the shema will probably be worn / missing ?
View attachment 943634

Check key 11, 12, and 18, for missing, or installed wrong.

 

[vuylsteke.steven]

Check key 11, 12, and 18, for missing, or installed wrong.

Ok,
I have just opened the floorplate again and found the cover plate.
I tried by adjusting the rod nr 10 on the first page, to shorten the movement. it did help some. the bolt was almost at the end. I shortened it for 5mm ( see shiny rod ) so there is still a little play when its not operating.
what you mention, can I just open that piece from the sides with the bolts 20 and 9 ? Or is it better to take the cover plate off and work on it in the shop ? I don't know what to expect when opening it, oil running out ? how much, it is almost the highest piece in the block so I think not that much would run out ?
how fool proof is this ?