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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[att ach=config]36447[ ok guys here are a few pictures of my replacement parts,as you can see that is a new brass bushing compared to a old one. I honestly think if caught in time all you would have to replace is a new spindle shaft and bearings and the new sleeves,but my middle case was pretty well wore out maybe if I would of did all that last year,could have avoided buying new cases. But new spindle is a lot bigger than old one.in the picture that is a new one beside old one. these pictures took me a couple of hrs. to get on here, even reading kennyds instructions thread, wife and me not good working together some days,will try again on a later day, thanks Big Jim:bash:
 

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Man that stuff sure looks expensive! What tractor was this from that you had a leak?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
2520 fixing front axle issue

Man that stuff sure looks expensive! What tractor was this from that you had a leak?
coaltrain; these parts are from my 2006 2520 that I spent roughly $2600.00 on tractor. Went with the new upgrade that jd changed in yr 2008 same time they changed 3pt arms design. I have more pictures but this is all I could manage to upload for now. It really makes you sick to realize I could almost had a Curtis cab for the amount I spent on arms and front axle!!:cray: big jim Vehicle Tractor Auto part Agricultural machinery Machine
 

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Wow Big Jim - that's such a shame! I'm not sure what model year my 2520 is but I know I have the old style 3-point arms.
 

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Thanks for the posts Big Jim.
 
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I have a 2009 with the old style arms sooo. Is there a serial number that broke this down.
How does everyone know what model year their tractor is? I know when I bought mine but that doesn't necessarily mean that was the year built......
 

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How does everyone know what model year their tractor is? I know when I bought mine but that doesn't necessarily mean that was the year built......
Model year really doesn't matter with tractors, as changes in design are marked by serial number breaks.

That said, your dealer can check your serial number and find the year.
 

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Model year really doesn't matter with tractors, as changes in design are marked by serial number breaks.

That said, your dealer can check your serial number and find the year.
I was just curious as Big Jim said there is a difference in the parts from his model year 2006 to the ones he used as a replacement which he said were upgraded in 2008.

I don't have a dealer anymore - all shut down when Deere forced the small dealers out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Serial number break on 2520's

I was just curious as Big Jim said there is a difference in the parts from his model year 2006 to the ones he used as a replacement which he said were upgraded in 2008.

I don't have a dealer anymore - all shut down when Deere forced the small dealers out.
coaltrain; jd partsman would not tell me serial no.break nor would the head shop man,they just said that they was not allowed to give out this information because their was one of them dtac's to this problems,remenber when I said it must be a big searete!!:spy::laugh: your tractor should be in the year 2008 and backwards till they started them.mine is a 2006 year,straight 3pt arms with the old style spindle cases now changed over to new style.Coaltrain u seem to navigate computer pretty good,maybe after holidays I could come visit u one day,i also drove truck and ran heavy equipment all my working carear. Thanks Big Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, just to help "tie" this all together a little better, here is the first thread where we heard about this issue: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...e-2320-2520-4110-4115-front-axle-failure.html

Jim, having your tractor model in your signature is very helpful, as evident from the second reply in this thread. I also changed the title of this thread to help those searching in the future a bit more.
Kennyd; sorry about that, I should have stayed with x475s thread, I will pay better attention. Thanks Big Jim
 
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coaltrain; jd partsman would not tell me serial no.break nor would the head shop man,they just said that they was not allowed to give out this information because their was one of them dtac's to this problems,remenber when I said it must be a big searete!!:spy::laugh: your tractor should be in the year 2008 and backwards till they started them.mine is a 2006 year,straight 3pt arms with the old style spindle cases now changed over to new style.Coaltrain u seem to navigate computer pretty good,maybe after holidays I could come visit u one day,i also drove truck and ran heavy equipment all my working carear. Thanks Big Jim
Wow Big Jim - so many similar things about us! Same careers and looks like both of us had our lives turned upside down about 3 years ago. It seems we are both in the right place - not only to help each other to keep going but all the awesome members here helping us out.

While no expert computer tech, computers have been a hobby of mine for years - one of the very few things I can still do that doesn't hurt! Looks like you are about 120 miles away from me. I would love to help any way I can but it looks like it won't be in person. If there is anything at all I can help you with just send me a PM here on the forum and I'll send you my email address. And I am a firm believer in that there is no such thing as a stupid question.

Back on topic - I bought my 2520 in 2007 so I guess the exact model year doesn't matter in this case as it was certainly made before 2008.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow Big Jim - so many similar things about us! Same careers and looks like both of us had our lives turned upside down about 3 years ago. It seems we are both in the right place - not only to help each other to keep going but all the awesome members here helping us out.

While no expert computer tech, computers have been a hobby of mine for years - one of the very few things I can still do that doesn't hurt! Looks like you are about 120 miles away from me. I would love to help any way I can but it looks like it won't be in person. If there is anything at all I can help you with just send me a PM here on the forum and I'll send you my email address. And I am a firm believer in that there is no such thing as a stupid question.

Back on topic - I bought my 2520 in 2007 so I guess the exact model year doesn't matter in this case as it was certainly made before 2008.
Coaltrain; see roadtrip in future, love roadtrips! Big Jim
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
jd's upgraded cases

HELP!!!! after replacing my jd 2520 yr 2006 front axle cases and also the pinion shaft's & well almost everything except kitchen sink. I have a problem, 1st; after painting my rim's inside and out I installed them,while it was still jacked up tried turning wheel around and it wanted to catch on top of bolt head that was installed on the steering stop that was installed for the snowplow, it didn't do this before? also I thought before that my rim was bent on left side, but contributed this to the oil leak on this side. Now as I spin tire it look's like it is out of round? 2rd after putting tractor back down on floor to try rolling it, I saw that the top of wheel leaned in, ithought what is going on here, so I jacked it back up, sat on floor to look thing's over, grabbed the wheel to see if any thing was loose and I can move bottom case in and out, just a little not much but I can see it move !!!, I don't think it's suppose to move right. Any input to this would greatly be appreciated, here is a pic. of new case. Auto part Engine Vehicle Machine Automotive engine part
 

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Jim, I would think there has got to be some movement but other than that, I am at a loss.
 
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I'm guessing you used the manual to put this together? Does it have spec's on runout? Have you got a dial indicator and base? If it doesn't feel right, I would not put it into service and go back through it making sure nothing was overlooked or left out. Bummer, I know...but crap that was a lot of money and I hate to see you have to endure that again. Wish I was closer....two heads are always better than one...as you can bounce ideas off each other.If nothing else, I'd lend moral support...anyways . Oh...and help you drink your coldbeer :laugh:
 

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I'm guessing you used the manual to put this together? Does it have spec's on runout? Have you got a dial indicator and base? If it doesn't feel right, I would not put it into service and go back through it making sure nothing was overlooked or left out. Bummer, I know...but crap that was a lot of money and I hate to see you have to endure that again. Wish I was closer....two heads are always better than one...as you can bounce ideas off each other.If nothing else, I'd lend moral support...anyways . Oh...and help you drink your coldbeer :laugh:
Always!
 
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It's pretty tough to see from here but is there any chance the hub flange face that the wheel bolts to is bent? You can check flange run-out using a dial indicator attached to a fixed point. Reference #1 indicated on the attached graphic below:

Text Auto part Font Line art Diagram

Did you check the pin fit at the bearings before reassembling the outer gear cases? Did everything including the bearings, spacers, seals and lock rings go together in the right order?

Auto part Text Line art Diagram Automotive exterior

How much "play" do you have? .005" or .250"? Can you measure it and let us know? Some play is normal but it must be within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
It's pretty tough to see from here but is there any chance the hub flange face that the wheel bolts to is bent? You can check flange run-out using a dial indicator attached to a fixed point. Reference #1 indicated on the attached graphic below:

View attachment 36991

Did you check the pin fit at the bearings before reassembling the outer gear cases? Did everything including the bearings, spacers, seals and lock rings go together in the right order?

View attachment 36992

How much "play" do you have? .005" or .250"? Can you measure it and let us know? Some play is normal but it must be within spec.
Superglidesport; I will try framingsquare agains't that part to test it.i really think I have bent my rim's somehow over the year's 2rd pic #15- brass bushing would not fit on new pinion shaft in upgrade kit part # 15 pinion shaft, the new one is a lot bigger than the old one and that's why I figured they left it out, when the jg parts man called me the other evening to see how things had gone I told him tractor was still on up in air due to me painted the rims and then told him about the brass bushing that wouldn't fit, since I am first to have this done in my area no one to refrence to for advice e,main parts man went on vac. for 2 wks due to holidays. he said at time of call that he would check on bushing problem because parts diagram shows it to go on pinion shaft, so I,m going to my wife's side of family for our Christmas get together and Monday I will be calling jd in n.c. to see if I can talk to some body with some knowledge on parts breakdown, I thought maybe somebody has installed this upgrade, I've also asked someone to possibly check their machine but in my gut I think if I was to put this to work it would tear it up again and start to leak. so thanks again will check all these things mentioned . Big JIm about how much play? while holding bottom case in hand and facing side of tractor you can watch it move in and out from the spindle case so the brass bushing I think goes on just different size ,shaft not machined like old one were it went that is the million dollar ? some one not change parts diagram, all 2720 are to have same parts IKN BIG JIM
 
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