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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had this tractor into the local dealer several times over the past 4 years for hydraulic issues. Have spent close to $10,000 and I'm still having issues.

A little bit of history... The front hydraulic pump has been replaced twice since I've owned the tractor; last time was in the past 4 years. Local dealer rebuilt scv valves on the rear of the tractor. Tractor has a soundgard cab and hydraulic high low transmission.

The loader will just stop working. Sometimes it will start working again, sometimes it won't. While bringing hay in from the field this year, the loader started to fail. I found that if I banged the spike into a bale it would bounce something enough on the tractor to make the hydraulics start working again.

Currently, the loader will not raise and power steering is gone when you get very far past center, but bucket tilt works in both directions. I tried plugging the raise/lower hoses into my auxiliary hook-ups, but still would not raise.

The hydraulic fluid is clean, has a new filter in it, and the screen has no debris on it. I've checked through the filler cap and there is no fluid spraying around internally.

Any help or advice is appreciated! I'm at my wits end spending thousands of dollars (now have spent more than the tractor is probably worth) with the John Deere dealership only to have the tractor fail after a few months of coming home from the shop.
 

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Ok we need more info. Do hyd's perform the same with hyd hi-lo in both speeds & hyd pto in both on/off positions? Have supply tubes for hyd hi-lo & IPTO been checked for leaks recently? What type valve controls FEL? Has hyd filter relief & surge relief valves been checked to be sure they're not stuck open? Has condition of frt hyd pump coupler been checked recently. Has hyd stand-by pressure been checked lately? Stand-by pressure should be 2250-2350 psi.
My experience is many hyd pumps have been replaced only to find out replaced hyd pump wasn't the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I've tried both hi and low. If the tractor is revved up high, the loader will slowly rise, but sometimes not at all. One thing I noticed while messing with it today, if I have the loader control pulled back to the raised position and try to raise the three-point, the loader will just drop. Works completely fine. I looked through some past invoices and cannot see where the tubes have been replaced, so I am not sure. The loader plugs in to scvs on the back.

Where is the filter relief and surge relief valve? I had a technical manual for this tractor that I purchased when I was replacing the water pump, but of course cannot find it right now.
 

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hyd surge relief valve items 14-17 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70901/referrer/navigation/pgId/186825916

Remove hex cap in photo below. Then with 3 pt lowered, all hyd control levers in neutral rotate engine crankshaft & measure amount of oil that comes out of open fitting in 15 seconds. Get another hex cap then disconnect line in photo to the left of hex cap. With both caps installed start engine & no oil should exit open line with both scv control levers in neutral. I'll also recommend getting a JIC cap so power steering supply line can be disconnected & capped to check to determine if power steering control valve is leaking internally.

FYI I served as a JD dealer service manager from '74-'87 when closed-center hyd's such that your tractor has were very common.
 

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Sorry it's been too long I can't remember if oil has to be drained. I think not but I'd hate to be wrong. You can place the nozzle of an operating shop vacuum in hyd filler neck to create a vacuum that will slow/stop oil from draining.
 

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Have you tried swapping the boom hoses to the SVC for the bucket, since you say it still curls/dumps?
Will the bucket still curl/dump if the hoses are in the SCV for the boom?
What it the "recruiter" you mentioned in your first post, that "bumping" from hard hit with bale spear caused hydraulics to start working?
 
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I wonder if PCV is stuck shut limiting flow to SCVs?
Pressure check, front pump coupling check, transmission pump flow test, cap power steering, see if PTO engaged/disengaged, also HI/LO in HI or LO makes a difference. All checks TxJim suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you tried swapping the boom hoses to the SVC for the bucket, since you say it still curls/dumps?
Will the bucket still curl/dump if the hoses are in the SCV for the boom?
What it the "recruiter" you mentioned in your first post, that "bumping" from hard hit with bale spear caused hydraulics to start working?
I did try swapping hoses; it didn't do any good. Recruiter was a typo. Should've said tractor. I fixed it in my original post. I'm going to go through the things TXJIM mentioned today.
 

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I did try swapping hoses; it didn't do any good. Recruiter was a typo. Should've said tractor. I fixed it in my original post. I'm going to go through the things TXJIM mentioned today.
When you swapped hoses, what was the result? Did the bucket still work on the other SCV? If it did, that rules out the SCV. Did you swap hoses from one SCV to the other? OR swap hoses, BUT stay at the same SCV?
I ASSUME the boom still did not work when you swapped hoses AND you swapped from one SCV to the other SCV?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When you swapped hoses, what was the result? Did the bucket still work on the other SCV? If it did, that rules out the SCV. Did you swap hoses from one SCV to the other? OR swap hoses, BUT stay at the same SCV?
I ASSUME the boom still did not work when you swapped hoses AND you swapped from one SCV to the other SCV?
I swapped to the other SCV. The tilt on the bucket worked very slowly and bouncy. The loader would still not raise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's where I'm at so far... I've been tied up in the mornings and has been hot in the afternoons so things have been slow going. I don't have the proper equipment to test the pressures/flows yet. I drained the fluid (it was going everywhere when I checked the filter bypass valve and the surge valve).

For recently being changed, the fluid looked pretty dirty. The screen had very little debris in it. There were 2-3 very small metal particles in the filter cup. The filter relief valve was stuck, but seemed stuck in the closed position (not bypassing). I did fix that. Not sure how to diagnose the surge valve. It appears that is just a rod inserted into the cap that doesn't move. The spring seemed fine and the ball was free.

Am planning to refill with fluid in the morning and see where I'm at. Is there any kind of filter or screen in the front pump that I need to check? The front pump coupling was fine.
 
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