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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so my 2010 3032E has started without issue until today.
It did sit out in a pretty hard storm last night.
I went to move it and it didn't want to turn over. Acted like a weak battery. I had the dash LCD showing hours, got the solenoid click but just a weasing sound when turning the key. After a few on/off's with the key it started as usual.
I went back this evening to move it and it won't start.
This time I get no display, click or any indication it has power.
I turn the light switch all the way on and I get dash lights and I get the hours display for a minute then it goes out. This is regardless of key position.
Turning the key to on or start does nothing.
Battery reads 12.3V.
Charging my booster to see if it helps at all.
My guess is a bad battery or the key switch. All relays and fuses are new.

Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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Your resting battery voltage is low. But more important is the battery voltage WHILE cranking. That will give a better measure of the battery health. I would also not rule out dirty battery connections. After you charge the battery clean the battery terminals AND cable ends. Then measure the voltage while cranking (or while attempting to crank).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Charging my booster over night. I'll clean the terminals in the morning. At this point there is no cranking. Key does nothing, no solenoid click not even the LCD display for hours. However I can get dash lights with the light switch.
 

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May be a bit premature to replace the battery. Have you eliminated the possibility that something is draining the battery? Put a full charge on the battery, then let it rest for a day. Measure the voltage. Should be at least 12.6. Then put the cables back on. The tractor should start right up. If it does, then get an ammeter between the battery and the tractor to see if there's any current draw while the tractor is off. It should not be pulling any current when everything is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pulled the battery this morning and ran my battery tester on it and failed. No telling how old the battery is. Came from Autozone.
Since we are going into cold temps I am replacing it. It acted like another one that had a cell go bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Once I had the battery out it actually read 12.7V. It was rated at 660 CCA but read 500 CCA. A few other specs were off but in general the tester said "replace". So replace it and go from there!
Putting a good charge on it then into the tractor and we'll see.
My bet was a bad cell or a dry one. Never bothered to open it up to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And the verdict is in ...
Battery was not the main issue. Battery was old and the tester indicated bad so replacing it was good anyway.
The main issue was the contacts in the fuse block for the "ignition run power" fuse. This is the main power to the ignition switch.
When I checked last evening the fuse was ok and I could not get a good look at the terminals.

So the moral is to check, double check and verify the obvious first!
 

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And the verdict is in ...
Battery was not the main issue. Battery was old and the tester indicated bad so replacing it was good anyway.
The main issue was the contacts in the fuse block for the "ignition run power" fuse. This is the main power to the ignition switch.
When I checked last evening the fuse was ok and I could not get a good look at the terminals.

So the moral is to check, double check and verify the obvious first!
Glad you got it figured out. Do you store the tractor outside? Just curious why the fuse contacts would be so corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just got the tractor earlier this year. It is a 2010 model that was reportedly stored in a hanger but when I pulled the fuse block out to fix a relay issue a while back it was all pretty gunked up, technical term!
I think that cleaning the grime off of it exposed the terminals to the air more and they corroded up with the typical white powdery stuff.
I imagine over the years the fuse block area just accumulated grime and dust.
 
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