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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 JD 445 with 820 hours. I am about 98% sure the plastic camshaft has broke, rocker arms are not moving up and down as they should. My question: Can all the work needed be done without removing the engine? It looks like after unbolting a few things, the front of the engine can be accessed easily.
 

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Yea going to have to pull it,it'll be easier. When I did my 98 345 I took it out and went through the hole engine.I had to upgrade the valve springs due to the steel cam. I put new gov. gear oil pump gear (both were plastic) new rings water pump and so on,had about $500 in parts when all done but I have a new engine.Just didn't make sense to tear into it and not go through the hole engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you are correct. I forgot that I would need to upgrade the valve springs. Are there anymore plastic parts that can be upgraded with steel parts? I downloaded the technical manual, and plan to start the rebuild next week. I also have a 2001 GX345, but to my understanding it has a steel cam.

Yea going to have to pull it,it'll be easier. When I did my 98 345 I took it out and went through the hole engine.I had to upgrade the valve springs due to the steel cam. I put new gov. gear oil pump gear (both were plastic) new rings water pump and so on,had about $500 in parts when all done but I have a new engine.Just didn't make sense to tear into it and not go through the hole engine.
 

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you are correct. I forgot that I would need to upgrade the valve springs. Are there anymore plastic parts that can be upgraded with steel parts? I downloaded the technical manual, and plan to start the rebuild next week. I also have a 2001 GX345, but to my understanding it has a steel cam.
On the 345 the plastic gears were replaced with plastic gears,except the cam gear of course.The reason for me changing them was if the cam failed to obvious heat and stress then the others would have heat to deal with.Being plastic I felt as long as I had the engine apart change them.
The GX345 has the steel cam,anything with serial number above 106 in the FD590 had the steel cam.
 

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I greatly appreciate your advice. I have never done anything as in-depth as an engine rebuild, so I have a little anxiety. Hahaha.


I was were you are as I am a novice mechanic and had never opened up an engine. I Oct this year I did the cam gear on my 285 FD590. I took my time and was successful. I did not know about needing to replace the valve springs and did not but I did replace the other plastic gears.

I labeled each bolt or bag with blue tape, put them in zip lock bags. Also took pics and printed them so I could number bolts and but back in original location. Have the manual and ask questions of the experts here.
 

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I greatly appreciate your advice. I have never done anything as in-depth as an engine rebuild, so I have a little anxiety. Hahaha.


I was were you are as I am a novice mechanic and had never opened up an engine. I Oct this year I did the cam gear on my 285 FD590. I took my time and was successful. I did not know about needing to replace the valve springs and did not but I did replace the other plastic gears.

I labeled each bolt or bag with blue tape, put them in zip lock bags. Also took pics and printed them so I could number bolts and but back in original location. Have the manual and ask questions of the experts here.
I knew about the springs from a Kawasaki engine manual that a friend sent me.
Use your phone to your advantage anytime you can helps a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Super!! I’m getting more confident due to all the reply’s. A small part of me wanted to send the engine to a machine shop, but deep down I want to do the work myself.


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I knew about the springs from a Kawasaki engine manual that a friend sent me.
Use your phone to your advantage anytime you can helps a lot.
You can replace valve springs without removing the cylinder head.
However you will need a few special tools.
Something to add compressed air to the cylinder. This holds the valves from falling down.
Then a spring compressor to remove the locks.
 

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We can walk you through this is you have some good mechanical skills. It's not really all that hard to work on these machines. Heck, if I can do it.....

Just remember to post lots of pictures and post the details. These fellas will pick out amazing details that you wouldn't notice. So the more you post, the better off you are. :good2:
 

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When I owned our 425 , dealer had to replace the engine. Took the tech maybe 30mins to unhook, unbolt the engine from frame, me helping him lift off the old engine, set the new one on the frame , bolted down the engine, reconnected everything , fill the fluids and start the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Next question.... I have a lot of tools, but not many “special tools.” What “special tools” should I purchase? I have no problem buying good tools, I consider it an investment. I like quality tools that will last a lifetime. I will need Spring compressor, gauges, etc. I can begin gathering the tools needed this weekend.


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Next question.... I have a lot of tools, but not many “special tools.” What “special tools” should I purchase? I have no problem buying good tools, I consider it an investment. I like quality tools that will last a lifetime. I will need Spring compressor, gauges, etc. I can begin gathering the tools needed this weekend.


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You should have 90% of the tools you need then. Without seeing your collection it's hard to say.

You will need some sort of valve spring compressor. To replace your springs and seals. Weather you have the cylinder heads off will determine what kind that you need.
Also a valve lapping tool. It's like a wooden dowel with a suction cup on the end.

To service the position will require some others.
Definitely a piston ring compressor.
A ring expander helps with installing them. However it can be done without the tool.
A ridge remover. Removes the crud at the top of the cylinder. So you can get the old pistons out.
A ring file for adjustment of the new gap.
Cylinder hone and drill to run it.
Snap ring pliers or dental pick for the wrist pin lock rings.

Measuring tools like feeler gauges and a dial/digital caliper.

Cleaning tools.
Scrapers, abrasive discs and a tool to spin it. The soft plastic wisker type will work the best for cleaning aluminum. You only want to remove the dirt and old gaskets. Not any aluminum! So be careful with what you use. Scraping to hard can also cause damage.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Excellent!! Of the items you listed, I currently have snap ring pliers, and digital calipers.


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With 820 hours I would not touch the pistons, cylinders, or rings.
The valve springs on my JD285 were "light" enough, I think I could have changed them by hand. I was not aware of changing the valve springs when I replaced my cam at 10XX hours and it ran as before after. Governor and oil pump gears looked good so I did not change them. The water pump had recently been changed or I would have changed it.

One tool not mentioned is a torque wrench in LB INCH, in addition to one in LB FOOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry for not updating everyone sooner. I have been in the hospital the past 6 Days with the flu, pneumonia, and streptococcus. I take Humira for Crohn’s, which greatly suppresses my immune system. Give me a few more days, and I will post a lot of pictures. I will also post pictures of the compression test.


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Sorry for not updating everyone sooner. I have been in the hospital the past 6 Days with the flu, pneumonia, and streptococcus. I take Humira for Crohn’s, which greatly suppresses my immune system. Give me a few more days, and I will post a lot of pictures. I will also post pictures of the compression test.


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Hope you feel better soon.A lot of people have been getting the flu.Take your time and get better.:good2:
 

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A good DVOM Digital Volt Ohm Meter for electrical (do not go cheap), Check with an electrical supply for what the electricians/electronics tech use. Some of the measurements need to measure down to a tenth or a hundredth of an ohm, also measure amps from mA to Amps (range 300ma/ or a different plug that allows 2 or 10 amp, any higher requires and inductive pickup type probe.

Optical RPM meter (for setting idles and WOT) fuel/air on carbs.

Jack stands (4 needed)
reg hydraulic jack with wheels that last
dollies
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Experts thoughts.... Right side compression is.
left side cylinder compression is.



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Experts thoughts.... Right side compression is.
left side cylinder compression is.



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That's not good. Did you pull the valve cover to see if the rocker arms are moving?
 
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