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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing JD 46 backhoe on my JD 2520.

Getting ready to hopefully power up the used 46 backhoe. Replaced two hoses and painted where necesssary.
While waiting for thread sealant to dry I have backed up over the sub frame and with the tractor turned off I connected the power beyond connection.
Not going to rush the sealant so tomorrow AM will be power up time after greasing.

While I am waiting I noticed that the distance between the back of the 2520 (running R3 turf tires) is pretty darn close.
At the moment the sub frame is flat on the garage floor.

I sure hope I can cose the distance to get the subframe to hook onto the 3ph pins when I lift up the backhoe with the stabiliziers and bucket without hitting the backs of my tires:dunno:.
So I am a litttle nervous as I expected to see more clearance, but maybe that's the way it should be?

Ensoll or Runner are you out there?
 

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Artillian Tractor, LLC
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Hi A,

When the backhoe is raised to the proper height and then the tractor is backed up so the mounting pins slide into the slots on the backhoe surname, the sheetmetal floorboard will nearly touch the back tires. Is this what you are concerned about? I'm not sure I follow the question.
 

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Artillian Tractor, LLC
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Just re read and yes, this is your question. Remember when John was backing up the tractor, I was pointing out that it is nearly impossible to see the pins engage into the slots as the tractor comes back. I guess I could have also pointed out that the tires very nearly strike the hoe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ensoll thnaks yes that was my consern. I am running the R3 turfs I notice you and runner are running R4s.

I don't know the difference in tire dimentions, but I can see for sure that the metal platform will never fit between the tires so I am crossing my fingers that as I raise the backhoe upward it just clears the rear of the tires.

I was just totaly surprised as I backed the tractor up close and saw what I thought was a major problem.

Haven't constructed a dolly just yet. Going to try to have the backhoe lift itself with the stabilizers and bucket to the pin height or drive off away from the sub frame and try jacking it up 12" under the platform area.

Anyway after a morning coffee I'll give it a go. Fingers crossed!
 

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Just measured mine,since its right here beside me. Its 1 1/8" away from the r-4 tire. But if you look down ,plum, with the closest edge,the plum line would actually bisect into the tire about 2-3 inches. So the back edge goes up and over the tire a little. I hope my explanation is clearer than mud as I just took a pain reliever:drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
rgd thanks. Looks like these things have very little clearance to the tires. Just looking beforehand made me think "Houston We have a problem"
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Whew I am getting there. Goal post is in sight!!! Backhoe is sitting on the 3pt pins. There was hardly any room left between the backhoe platform and my turf tires I will take a photo of that area after installing the hangers as that will tilt the platform and affect the spacing.

One more small hurdle to overcome/understand.

First picture: The rear right "hook" of the subframe not quite completely on the 3pt pin ( ~1/4 left to go) the left side is completely on. Not sure if that's an issue maybe it might correct itself as we proceeed.

I decided to install the last step which is the front hangers.

Second picture: After poistioning the hangers and tightening the U bolts I realise that I will not be able to snug the hangers up against the loader subframe. They are quite loose sliding all over the subframe. I don't think that's right. You can see the gap and daylight under the bracket corner.

If I remember correctly when we removed the hangers from the sellers 2520 they were tight to the loader subframe. I checked the #46 operator's manual it simply shows the hangers already installed. As a matter of fact in the manual it shows the hangers installed with the "U" bolts facing the front of the tractor in one photo and on the second facing the rear. I enlargered a photo of runner's and mine is installed as his are ("U" bolts facing the rare of the tractor).

Probably doing something wrong here, and maybe you could point me in the right direction.
 

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Artillian Tractor, LLC
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I have the installation instructions and will scan them in as soon as I get a chance later today and put them up here. I didn't realize you were still having to install these parts.

I seem to recall that there was a design change on those forward mounting ubolts somewhere along the way. Take a look at JDParts.com and you'll see what I am talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Chris thanks I'll head there right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Chris I think you are onto something. I looked at JDparts and they didn't (at least for me) indicate that there were two different mounts.

That said I remember now when I was first considering buying the used backhoe you posted two subframes an early and later version.
It was decided that I had the earlier version left photo (the one with the two forward mounting holes for the hangers while the later has only one hole).

If I measure my tractor loader subframe it appears to be ~3 1/2" square tubing.
When I measure the hanger that I have it looks it would be mounted on ~4" square tubing.

Did the earlier 200CX loader subframes have 4" square tubing and the newer are 3 1/2" does that seem right?

If true I wonder what new hangers/bolts would cost hangers or if the ones I currently have can be modified while still lining up with the holes in the backhoe subframe?
I'll revisit JDparts.


Gizmo2 thanks I have that owners manual.
 

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Artillian Tractor, LLC
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Well, you could probably shim, but that could become a science project. I can't imagine the replacement hangars are all that expensive. You can find out right on JDParts.com, or give your dealer a ring and have them help out, assuming you get someone coherent on the phone.
 

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46 Backhoe Installation Instructions

Here you go! I hope it scanned in clearly enough. It's the best I can get. You will need Acrobat Reader 9.0 or newer to open it.

Note: I only scanned in the English portion of the document. It is also sectioned in French, German, Spanish and Italian. If any overseas friends of GreenTractorTalk could use (one of) them, just let me know and I'll append.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the install instructions Chris they were a big help. Looks like there must have been hangers for just a 4" loader tubes which I have that were updated/changed to different hangers that can do either 3 1/2" or 4" loader tubes.
Also see that they added a small stop plate to the backhoe subframe where it attaches to the rear pins. I think you also have a new 2520 are the notches on your subframe all the way onto the pins or did you move the stop plates forward? imagine you have the newer

I priced the hangers listed in JD parts for what must be the current backhoe subframe with hanger part number LVA13202, and if they were to solve my issue they are $488.80 for the pair ouch (and they apparently have changed them again from your install instructions).

I am so close to using the backhoe all that remains is installing the two front pins.
There must be a way to alter the hangers that I have. I was wondering if a welder could add 1/2 of steel to each side of mine to reduce the inside dimentions to 3 1/2". Just not sure if the pins would line up ok with the subframe.

If my subframe was installed correctly would I be correct in beleiving the sub frame would be level front to back? I was thinking (danger novice thinking out loud here) if it s/b level then I could place a bubble level on my subframe to see exactly where/how my hangers should modified to line up the pin holes.

There is a stump in my driveway that is laughing :mocking: I intended to start digging it out today.
 

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How about a nice short piece of 1/4" 3-1/2" angle iron? It would wrap both sides of the mounting frame but you may need to grind the corner of the angle iron a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Gizmo2 Yes maybe something on that line.

Is this what you were thinking adding the angle iron where the green line is?

If I could get the added angle iron to take up the slack space that would work I think provided I could still attach my pins. Is you subframe level front to back?
 

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Gizmo2 Yes maybe something on that line.

Is this what you were thinking adding the angle iron where the green line is?

If I could get the added angle iron to take up the slack space that would work I think provided I could still attach my pins. Is you subframe level front to back?
Yes that is exactly what I was thinking. Grind the corner of the angle iron so it will fit nice and tight. I know the inside corner on my brackets are rounded. There really is not a lot of force being applied to those brackets and I think this may very well work for you. Just tack the angle iron to the bracket and give it a test and it it work weld it up later, or not, where's it gonna go. The 1/4" angle iron should give you the needed 1/2". Don't weld the angle to the mounting frame cause you may need to adjust these brackets once all said and done.
 
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