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Seriously considering making this my first tractor. Would be mainly used as a toy, but would like to use it to mow 4-5 acers

any opinion on what I should be willing to pay?

has a cracked exhaust manifold.

IMG_20170205_110021.jpg
 

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man with them square fenders on it, it's priceless:lol: I don't know really what u should offer. what's the owners price now??

it looks like it's in good shape-right. them manifolds do that as they age. i had to replace mine yrs ago. not a bad thing to do.

Craig's list has several around in my area for anywhere from $2 grand to higher, depending on what all is wrong. tires have gone thru the roof for these things as of late. if u like it-well that all depends on u. good luck! and i hope u get it. i really would like some pics on how he managed to mount them fenders. that is something some day i would love to acquire:bigthumb:.
 

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At least around my area, running 50's go from $2000 in 'work clothes' to $5000 in 'better than new' condition. Then again, those are asking prices. I think $3000 to $3500 would be a very fair selling price considering that replacing the manifold is potentially a $500 project requiring at least a day or two to complete. The tires look like they have decent tread to them, but if there is significant weather checking on the sides then you can use this to negotiate the price down.
 

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thanks for the input. the fenders are a pretty great feature. They are asking $3500 which seems fair to me, but the cracked manifold scares me because of the amount of tear down to get it off. May offer a little less and see what happens.

Bigjim, if I get it I can post some pics
 

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Cracked exhaust manifolds are common on those tractors! I grew up on a 53-60 & other 60's in the family, 50's aren't that much different.
 

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thanks for the input. the fenders are a pretty great feature. They are asking $3500 which seems fair to me, but the cracked manifold scares me because of the amount of tear down to get it off. May offer a little less and see what happens.

Bigjim, if I get it I can post some pics
don't let that manifold scare away. it is not a major item to change it. just replace the bolts on the exhaust pipe, and be careful of the others. their is no way it should take 2 days to change it. once u get it, soak the manifold bolts daily with some PBlaster for a week or so. they should turn out find than. go for it. offer them $3000. see if they will take it. only after checking the side walls of the tires-ok.
 

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That is a nice looking 50, but there is a few things i would consider first.

Have you actually heard it run? They will run with a cracked manifold.

You are going to mow with it, does it have live pto?

What type of mower? a sickle bar or something like a brush hog or finish mower? A "stock" 50 will not provide you with rockshaft operation and hydraulic function at the same time.

That is a nice looking 50, lot better looking than mine. but they will do an impressive amount of work on a nickels worth of gas, and as light as they are you wouldnt notice power steering

Did you get it bought?
 

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YEP! I brought it home on Saturday. I got it for $3000. It was about 6 miles from home so just drove it home. It sounds and seems to run amazing. Keep in mind I am BRAND new to this antique tractor thing.

I do plan to mow about 5 acres of pasture with it. I am thinking 5' or 6' brush hog mower. It does have a 3 point. Any opinions on size here. from what I have been told a 6' would be on the edge of its capabilities.

Not sure what you mean by this "stock" 50 will not provide you with rockshaft operation and hydraulic function at the same time.

IMG_20170219_113901.jpg FB_IMG_1490577872581.jpg
 

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YEP! I brought it home on Saturday. I got it for $3000. It was about 6 miles from home so just drove it home. It sounds and seems to run amazing. Keep in mind I am BRAND new to this antique tractor thing.
I know nothing about antique tractors but would have dropped $3K for that in a heartbeat! Beautiful piece of machinery! Enjoy it.
 

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YEP! I brought it home on Saturday. I got it for $3000. It was about 6 miles from home so just drove it home. It sounds and seems to run amazing. Keep in mind I am BRAND new to this antique tractor thing.

I do plan to mow about 5 acres of pasture with it. I am thinking 5' or 6' brush hog mower. It does have a 3 point. Any opinions on size here. from what I have been told a 6' would be on the edge of its capabilities.

Not sure what you mean by this "stock" 50 will not provide you with rockshaft operation and hydraulic function at the same time.
Your rockshaft (3-pt) doesn't work at the same time as a remote cylinder as the tractor was originally set up. Yours is an aftermarket 3-pt & the top link bracket is in the way of seeing the remote cylinder connections in the picture, so I can't tell if that's original or "Pioneer" couplers. Most have been changed to the "Pioneers"!
 

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Your rockshaft (3-pt) doesn't work at the same time as a remote cylinder as the tractor was originally set up. Yours is an aftermarket 3-pt & the top link bracket is in the way of seeing the remote cylinder connections in the picture, so I can't tell if that's original or "Pioneer" couplers. Most have been changed to the "Pioneers"!
i'm interested this also--as i don't have a 3pt on my 50. ok-so if i did have a 3pt-factory set up 3pt. i couldn't lift say the brushhog, and run my pto :dunno: what if u already had the pto running, and came to something u wanted to raise the brush hog-would u then have to shut the pto off, to raise the brush hog. straighten me out greenspot-ok.

and i have Pioneer ends on mine too. i just use my blanks while it's sitting parked-if-i have the brush hog unhooked from tractor, as i don't have dust caps for them.

i do know that jd only made a 3pt specially for this model. very hard to come by-at least around here. i have seen only one factory one-ever in my life.
 

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i'm interested this also--as i don't have a 3pt on my 50. ok-so if i did have a 3pt-factory set up 3pt. i couldn't lift say the brushhog, and run my pto :dunno: what if u already had the pto running, and came to something u wanted to raise the brush hog-would u then have to shut the pto off, to raise the brush hog. straighten me out greenspot-ok.

and i have Pioneer ends on mine too. i just use my blanks while it's sitting parked-if-i have the brush hog unhooked from tractor, as i don't have dust caps for them.

i do know that jd only made a 3pt specially for this model. very hard to come by-at least around here. i have seen only one factory one-ever in my life.
PTO will work fine, just not the remote cylinder!

Factory 3-pt would be the 400 series, biggest problem with them was the finger pinching *#*#*#!!!!! :mad::banghead: top link!
 

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PTO will work fine, just not the remote cylinder!

Factory 3-pt would be the 400 series, biggest problem with them was the finger pinching *#*#*#!!!!! :mad::banghead: top link!
:dunno:eek:k-i have a tow behind 5 ft jd brush hog, with a hydraulic cylinder mounted on it. i can run the pto, and raise and lower the cylinder. my 50 has live pto-at least that's what the old fellas all called it -compared to how the B's and the A's-where u had to have the hand clutch engaged to make the pto run.

so i guess since i never have run an older 3pt jd tractor like mine-i am missing something to do with the rock shaft operation of working the 3pt. cause ur hydraulic lever is what raises and lowers the rock shaft(we called them the cultivator stubs).

:banghead:so this is what ur referring to -as to why pto will work, but not be able to use the remote for a cylinder to work.

i think i have the drift now. no worries about that-as i will never put a 3 pt on mine. almost did yrs ago-a aftermarket then-but they wanted over $400 back then. don't know the price of them now.:dunno:

:bigthumb: thanks for straightening me out. nice conversation-oh. later!
 

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3k, runs, looks nice, rubber looks good, you did not get hurt at all.

Let me back up a bit....

The factory 3 point hitch for that series tractor was the 800 and 801. I have several laying around. not much to them, however, a lot of guys would take the arms from an ol ford 8 or 9n and use those and add a top link and wah-la, 3 point, which is what you have, the 2 pt arms from an ol ford. No big deal, it will work.

So, in stock form, the way it left the factory, will not allow for the operation of your 3 point at the same time as your hydraulic cylinder operation. If you were using your cylinder, it would have plugs for the hoses to connect to, if you wanted 3 pt operation you switched over to the "dummy" plugs and you could run your 3pt. There are some ways around that, baker valves, side plugs in your powrtrol, etc etc. but anyway.

I could not tell if there is a lever, by the bottom of the seat box, for "live power", or "live pto". Live pto means the motor is driving the pto, which means it runs whether your clutched or not, and at same speed regardless of how fast you are going, the only way to change the speed would be to throttle the tractor up or down. NON-Live power means the transmission drives the pto which means it is only working when you are either in neutral with the clutch engaged, or in a gear moving. and speed of the pto is more defined by how fast you are moving. which can be a problem if you are wide open and need to make a sudden stop if you have something heavy swing on the pto like a brush hog, because it will keep pushing you forward. The solution is a slip clutch on the pto.

So your pto will work with either the 3pt or the hydraulic, but the 3pt and the hydralics will not work at the same time.

I have run 5ft brush hogs on model 60's with live power and second gear was about all i wanted to push, course im lazy and dont mow pastures as needed, so i know that had an effect but i never did care for it all that much. I did run a couple different 60 or 72" finish mowers behind it, one was a 3 blade deere model something or other and the other was a bobcat, again 3 blade, on that 60 and THAT was a lot nicer to run. Just meant i needed to run it more often cause it was a finish mower. Finish mowers dont take as much power to run as a brush hog just because they are two different types mowers. On my 50, almost exactly like yours, my sickle mower is the, in my humblest of opinions, the absolute best way to go. very little power to run, light, and will cut taller grasses better. You also wont find ANYTHING that will do that much mowing with that LITTLE fuel. Its crazy, at least to me.

I am sure i am missing some thing that was in my head, but didnt make it to my fingers. But thats the overall. There all kinds of little things to learn on these old machines, but the first thing i can tell you is that if there is not a way to shut the fuel off from the tank to the carburetor then GET one, fuel flow is gravity, and if the needle sticks ALL your fuel from the tank, flows into the crankcase....ask me how i know...ALWAYS check the oil prior to starting....doesnt matter how or when, cause when a tractor MAKES oil, you got an issue hahah

Oh yea, i do NOT know what that is on the back of the tractor, but im pretty sure that is not a factory deere pto output. can you take some more upclose pictures of that? It seems like i have seen them before and it seems like i should know, but this morning...i got nothing.

Nice 50, check on john deeres website, cause the parts manual is online for free, and you can also buy the service manual and the operators manual. There are other aftermarket places that have them, but i am telling ya, they are a waste of money. If your computer savvy enough you can buy all those manuals on a cd in pdf form, or the book form, which ever your more comfortable with.
 
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