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Discussion Starter #1
Working on JD 5093e Limited (340000+/2010-2011) and the steering return line is leaking from the ferrule/crimp. The part number for this hose is either RE224842 or SJ12165. My fittings look more like the open operator SJ12165. Regardless, I'll likely get the replacement hose made locally. My questions are 1) how long to allow for removal and replacement of the hose? 2) any special tools required? 3) any other tips or recommendations? Looks like if I approach from the left side I have to remove the two steering lines to get to the return line. If I approach from the right side I have to remove two air conditioning lines and maybe a wire harnes. Taking to dealer is not an option....too far. Thanks in advance for any information.
 

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Not a swivel in the sense it can swivel when tight. But a swivel as in the nut at the hose end will turn without the hose turning to allow tightening.
It may be just loose or o-ring has failed.

Looks Like ORFS to me.
 

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Thanks Zebrafive. Especially the detailed post in "the other" forum. I got some better conditions rolling in in about 48 hours. I'm going to keep the tractor under cover until then and then get it up next to the house/shop outside for a couple days if it takes a day or two to get it apart and find a replacement. The hose is leaking at the ferrule/crimp but the connections are dry. The pictures show hydro fluid around the valve but that appears to be leak down from the hose end of the crimp. The current line is labeled at 3/8" hose so this has to be a replacement. Kinda feel like I looked into everything I could to prepare to do in one morning (get parts in advance) but with the extra connector between the hose end and the adapter at the valve end I don't think I'll really know until I get it off. Thanks for the responses.
 

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Got 2 more pics on the return line side of the hose I need to replace to show why I'm a little confused when I compare this set up with the JD parts illustrations. Think this hose is non-JD and may have been put on backwards. Not going to get into this for another 2 days so I can keep posting pictures and bugging folks. :bigbeer:.

Thanks for any thoughts or recommendations.
 

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I will start by saying the 5E series is one of the more challenging models to identify parts for. There have been many running changes that have made it difficult to identify the correct parts. The RE224842 has specs that obviously show 90 degree elbow on one end. Yours has straight on one end and 45 degree on other, So I would rule that out. The SJ12165 does not show specs, so there is no way to verify that. I would suggest removing the hose and inspecting the crimped ferrules on each end. Many times, a part number is stamped on one end or the other. Also if you take the hose to your dealer or hydraulic hose fabrication shop, they should be able to make one to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
From Zebrafive: 0310191939.jpg 0310191642a.jpg "They are ORFS 8 (1/2") hose end. O Ring Face Seal. The O ring is P/N T77857. .489" ID .629" OD .070 thickness (diameter of o-ring stock used to make it). This is the end at the steering valve. I ASSUME other end is also same size. "

Zebrafive you were exactly right! The set up was just as you said and the Hose was installed backwards. Once I go the hose off it turned out the ferrule/crimp was just the collecting site. Because the hose was installed backwards it was rubbing on the support frame for the hood and wore a hole in the hose and was tracking down to the ferrule crimp. I could'nt see the puncture because of the hood frame and the AC hoses. Turns out getting the hose off was the easy part. Turns out too that this hose was a lot closer to rupturing than I thought.
New Problem:
To Access to steering valve I removed the extension pipe from the muffler and snapped off one of the bolts into the manifold. Tried drilling out. Tried extractors. Have it bathed in liquid wrench. I'll the replacement hose made up tomorrow.
Any more recommendations on backing out this sheared bolt would be appreciated.
 

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On twisted off manifold bolt I'll suggest to weld washer to bolt then weld hex nut to washer. The heat from welding should help loosen the bolt.
 

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I have had success with the "easy outs" that are straight splined shafts. You drill proper size hole and hammer in a splined shaft. Then there is a nut that slides on the spline for turning. These do not expand the broken bolt like the tapered easy outs. If the splined type will not turn, add heat. I have had the splined shaft twist before the broken bolt loosened.

You may have to drill up to tap drill size and then retap the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good suggestions to go in a different direction cause what I'm doing now is just tearing up bits and extractors. Let you know how it turns out. Hunt down replacement hose today. Bolt round 2 this afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good news; bad news; can live with it for now. I got the steering return line made up locally and got it installed with no leaks in the original orientation so that it no lower rubs on the hood support bracket which caused the original abrasion leak. Then worked on the sheared off bolt after make-shift soak bath in a penetrating oil. Tried a counter-clock-wise small chisel, carbide, titanium and left handed drill bits, ran the tractor to heat the manifold, allowed to cool. Tried everything again. No luck on the bolt. For today, with the sun setting, wind blowing and temp falling (both outside and beer) and salmon on the grill.......I hammered out a strip of sheet metal I had to mock up a temporary support and shut it down for the night. A buddy boasts about his welding prowess both torch and mig. If my make-shift support rattles or allows too much play I'll invest more time on getting this
stubborn- A_ _ bolt out. For now....I'm operational. Thanks for all the recommendations.
 

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