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I have a dire need for a rear blade for my John Deere 455 tractor but don't have one nor the funds to buy one. Most of the material I needed was on hand for it except some 2" square tubing that I have to pick up. I decided for multiple reasons, to use an existing 54" blade as the main component of it. This enables me to A, have it on hand, and B, have a potential for making these for others if I can keep the cost down and have it turn out nice enough that others will want one.


A lot of my time so far has been sitting staring at the computer trying to come up with a design that I like and can afford which will utilize as many pieces that I have kicking around as possible. Some of the material came from the same hoisting fork assembly that I used for my rear 3PH forks. Here's how it should look once done. Sorry for the 2D CAD, I couldn't be bothered modelling it in 3D.


I haven't drawn in the hydraulic cylinder for rotation or the upper link attachment yet. The blade is a regular JD 54" with everything stripped off so it is a bare weldment with cutting edge.



First thing to do was break out some material so I could get things a bit more manageable. I needed 6" of round tubing for the main pivot. These are some of the material donors.






The 6" long piece needed truing up on the lathe. While I was doing that, I had some material cutting on the bandsaw.



I had this old torch attachment that I made up many years ago for cutting circles. I had to also get out the "old" torch that it fit on.






There was a bit of cleanup required but they fit up nicely.



Sand blasted and ready for welding.






I picked up an old draw bar for a Cat 1 3PH a couple summers ago but it didn't work out. For some reason, it was only 20" across and needed to be 26". I had it sitting there so it gave itself to the job. Since the main tube is 3/8" wall, I figured I could weld the two pieces on either side of it and it would be plenty strong.



I've always like to use tapping plates for stuff like this. You make up a couple of mating plates, one with clearance holes and one with tapped holes and bolt them together. You can then place them and weld them on one component and the other will weld to the other side. The holes end up perfectly aligned and you don't have to drill in weird places.



And this is about as far as I got today. Not bad for a morning and afternoon's work I think. I'm pleased with it so far. Not even an inch of the 2x6x3/8 tubing went to waste.



 

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Awesome fab work Lorne! :thumbup1gif: Your welds look beautiful.


Do you just manually hold the torch on the metal for cutting a circle? I didn't see a way to hold the bent all-thread?
 

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You sir, are a MASTER :good2:
 

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luv the pics-techie-glad u got a new project to show us-and like the rest - i'll be waiting for the end results:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome fab work Lorne! :thumbup1gif: Your welds look beautiful.


Do you just manually hold the torch on the metal for cutting a circle? I didn't see a way to hold the bent all-thread?
Thanks DS. The tip of the all thread is pointed and sits in a center punch mark. Just pivot around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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I commented over in your other thread, but will be sure to watch how this comes out over here.:good2:
 

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Thanks DS. The tip of the all thread is pointed and sits in a center punch mark. Just pivot around it.
Well, I'm stealin' that idea!:thumbup1gif:
 

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Okay, I'm officially getting old. I posted the updates in the other thread when they should be here. I'll try to keep it straight going forward.

More progress on it tonight and pretty happy on how it's coming out. My welds have been better in the past but they'll do. I seem to be getting older and my hands and other parts of me aren't keeping up I guess.:lol:


While the material was being cut up on the bandsaw, I did some bevelling and drilling.



I used 2x2x1/4 square tubing since I figured extra weight is welcome and can't hurt for extra strength. The cuts all came out pretty good and layup of the bits went well.






I didn't really need to close the top of the tubes but figured that it looked better so I mitered the uprights and put a piece across the top. Once the rear bracket was welded up, I could put the upper pivot on with the tapping plates.



This is the arm in place so that I could set in the lower pivot collar.



And the more or less assembly as it will function. I have to add the hydraulic for the pivot as well as the top link bracket.









 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had an old air cylinder that was a Hydraulic cylinder when it was born. I pulled it from an old machine that I scrapped a while ago. I kept it because, well you know, because. It was suitable to the task but I had to make a new piston for it as well as shorten it. It's now about the same size as the JD that is used for blade rotation.





All cleaned up, shortened and ready for its new piston. Another old piece donated the chunk of aluminum.









The cylinder is drawn in to CAD and that gave me the go ahead to put in the upright for the top link. I didn't take any photos of the process as it was more or less, cut piece, weld piece. I figured it was time to see if I was in the ball park with the design so outside it went. I have a piece of 2x2 that is sticking out of the main beam which should be in the right spot to hold the fixed end of the cylinder.









 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is pretty much done from a fabricating standpoint and before I do the hydraulics, I'm going to work it a bit to make sure everything is copacetic. There are a few little features that I have to work out as well like how I will be running the hydraulics to the rear as well as some brackets for changing the cutting angle. I want to be able to rotate the blade forward to make it a sort of zero degree scraper and maybe even a negative angle.


To mount the hydraulic cylinder, I made up some pieces of 3/4 x 2 HRS as well as some pins from some old shaft that I had. I first attached the movable attachment point so that I could hang the cylinder on it. Once that was on, I could put a square to it so the the fixed mount was in the correct spot.






After it was all welded up, I took it all outside for assembly. The bottoms of the tubes that hold the blade were a bit long so I cut them off by a quarter of an inch. That way, I can attach the blade by laying it on the ground, backing over it and then dropping the yoke over top.



And here she is:yahoo:






The blade angles a bit more than 20 degrees which I think will be fine. I have rarely had to put the front blade any further than that except for snow. I think that with dirt, it would kick the tractor out too easily.












 

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You are a master in your craft.
 

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That is truly one of a kind Lorne, thanks for sharing it with us. Wow, just wow!:good2:
 
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