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Discussion Starter #1
I paraded my 1948 JD B this summer after 10 yrs of on and off again restoration. I'll try to upload a photo to the gallery. I had posted questions along the way, and appreciate the advice. A few comments.

The water leak turned out to be loose fit of manifold studs into the head. Studs had been drilled out and new thread inserts installed by machine shop. The inserts didn't fit tight in the casting or around the studs. Fixed with thread sealant, and a bit of JB Weld to seal holes into water jacket.

The clutch problem turned out to be my ignorance in setting the pulley brake at the top of disengagement. Didn't know that or read about it in any of the manuals. Makes sense once you know it, but some folks might not.

The original sheet metal was in bad shape and had lots of big dings filled with Bondo, so I thought I'd save time by buying aftermarket hood and grills from Wilson Farms. Bad decision. The aftermarket grills took some light Bondo and Shaping to get the top curves smooth, I had to modify the tank straps in the hood to make the tank fit, and I found out after lots of painting and assembly that the grill dimensions were off and didn't fit right. Looks OK at a distance (photo), but no good for show quality. Now, I'm reworking the original tin for next season's campaign. Next project is rebuilding a Series 200 2-row mounted cultivator to show with the tractor.

Tractor runs great, but sounds to me like too much noise in the transmission under any load at all. I rebuilt the tranny with new bearings etc, and all gears look good. Ideas welcome.

I'm no expert, but I've rebuilt a few other things, did the complete rebuild by myself with a little machine shop work, and know the tractor pretty well. Glad to answer questions. I have real numbers for tractor weight and balance (center of gravity), which was good for specifying axle placement of the 14 ft trailer I had built for the tractor. I also built a stand with wheels to hang the rear end while rebuilding, and a pallet with pylons to move the main case around for work and painting. I'd like to pass those on to someone else who could use them. Work really great if you have a hard floor.

Joe Mauderly
H: 505-296-7246
C: 505-250-4065
 

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We need pictures :good2:

I am thinking of starting on my grandfathers Super C. While its in good shape now, I know it will take some time and cash to do it right. How much more did you invest in the tractor than what its worth?
 

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What Cost to Restore?

I purposefully did not keep tract of costs. This was a hobby, not a business proposition. There's no doubt that I have about twice in the tractor what it's worth on the market today. I don't feel bad about that at all! Golf, bowling, model planes, and private flying don't have any real payback either, but at this point in my life, I'd rather play with my tractor than do any of those. If you want to flip tractors for profit - good luck! It's even doubtful that the guys who thought that collecting tractors were a good retirement investment did much better than getting their money back - and in cheaper dollars to boot.

My advice is that if you want an old tractor to use in an cost-effective manner, buy one that is all together and runs, put just enough money into it to get it to run decently, and forget restoring it. Smooth tin and new paint doesn't do any work. You'll have just as much fun actually using it as I do tinkering with my garage queen. Different strokes for different folks.

To answer your question more directly, I paid $2700 for the tractor to start with, and I told my wife that if I kicked the bucket, she might get as much as $5000 for it tops.

Joe Mauderly
 

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I know what you're saying about costs. It's gonna cost far more for my own projects than I had estimated.

Hope you can get the sheet metal fixed the way you want it.
 
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