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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone swapped out the factory style hitch couple on their JD cart to a ball hitch style coupler? I see the factory one is hold on with only two bolts.....

I picked up one of Kenny's 2" bolt on receiver hitches for my X758 so I could use a receiver hitch with a hook or D-ring for pulling stuff. The downside is I have to remove the 2" receiver plate that I got from Kenny every time I want to use my cart.

RX Hitch.JPG
john-deere-dump-carts-pct-17jd-64_1000.jpg
31v+Gkc8tmL.jpg
 

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There is a much easier way. Get yourself a combo hitch that goes into the receiver. I made my own by welding a tang on the bottom of the tube but you can get them with a hook, ball and tang all in one. Just rotate around to the one you need.

Hitch4.jpg


BTW... having a ball style hitch on the lawn cart is a pain.
 

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The coupler just bolts on,,,

Yes, but the tongue box channel on the ball coupler cart is much larger than the box channel on the pin cart.

I feel safer with the coupler instead of a pin when hauling precious cargo,,,
You have to go with whatever makes you feel safe. I've been towing around lawn carts with heavy loads for 45 years and never had an issue with a pin disconnecting. :)

On the flip side, I've seen plenty of ball couplers come loose.

Did you ever wonder why big farm implements are secured with pins and not ball couplers? :)
 

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I added a ball hitch to my cart and I like it. I have an inexpensive Deere receiver hitch that fits the Imatch and I have standardization now between the cart, log splitter or a trailer.

The only thing that bothers me that I may change one day is the low to the ground drawbar of the cart. I have to raise and lower the three point if I am going over large humps or changes in grade towing the cart so that the hitch doesn't end up dragging a furrow in the turf.

I also like having the trailer ball out on the three point hitch. It makes it easier to back the cart without getting the trailer sideways and into the rear wheel.

I have had no problems so far with a heavy trailer lifting my three point while dumping or anything.

Heavy Hitch makes an excellent product as well that weights could be hung from combined with the receiver.
 

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I use a 2" ball coupler on my 17P for the Gator, Power King & Cubby which all have 1-1/4" receivers added. The 10P uses a pin!
 

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I would get an insert for the 1 1/4" receiver and not mount a ball on it, use the hole for the cart pin.

The only thing I do not like about my cart's pin is bending over to put the hairpin in. Finding the hole in the pin and putting the hairpin in :banghead: I heard there is a pin that has magnet to hold it in place, no hairpin needed :dunno:
 

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I would get an insert for the 1 1/4" receiver and not mount a ball on it, use the hole for the cart pin.
Kens receivers are 2"

The only thing I do not like about my cart's pin is bending over to put the hairpin in. Finding the hole in the pin and putting the hairpin in :banghead: I heard there is a pin that has magnet to hold it in place, no hairpin needed :dunno:
I don't use a hairpin for the very reason you said - PITA. I discarded the tiny factory pin almost immediately and replaced it with one of those 4" long red-handled hitch pins. It's heavy and sticks far enough out the bottom that no hairpin is required. It has a hole for a pin should it ever be needed. I've been pulling my 17P trailer and lawn roller over my bumpy lawn for 10+ years and never once had the pin come out. Prior to the 17P I pulled an old metal cart with my 175 Hydro for 20+ years just using a bolt for a pin and it never came out. :)

hitch_pin.jpg

I have seen those JD magnetic hitch pins (LP63768), $15 at Home Depot. They would be pretty nice also.

Mag_pin.jpg

When you see how the magnetic hitch pin is made you could probably make your own out of one of the red handled pins. Just have to find a donut shaped magnet and glue it on.
 

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The only thing I do not like about my cart's pin is bending over to put the hairpin in. Finding the hole in the pin and putting the hairpin in :banghead: I heard there is a pin that has magnet to hold it in place, no hairpin needed :dunno:
I've been using this same hitch pin I made for our Wheel Horse since 1994. Never had the need for a hairpin or keeper.

Hitch Pin.JPG _ Hitch Pin (2).JPG
 

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I don't use a hairpin for the very reason you said - PITA. I discarded the tiny factory pin almost immediately and replaced it with one of those 4" long red-handled hitch pins. It's heavy and sticks far enough out the bottom that no hairpin is required. It has a hole for a pin should it ever be needed. I've been pulling my 17P trailer and lawn roller over my bumpy lawn for 10+ years and never once had the pin come out. Prior to the 17P I pulled an old metal cart with my 175 Hydro for 20+ years just using a bolt for a pin and it never came out. :)
Are we related? :lol:
 

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Jeff B -

Can you give me more details about "I have an inexpensive Deere receiver hitch that fits the Imatch".

I'm looking for the same thing also.

Thanks
 

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Can you give me more details about "I have an inexpensive Deere receiver hitch that fits the Imatch".

I'm looking for the same thing also.
PMFJI... I normally recommend that folks go get an inexpensive Cat1 drawbar:

drawbar1.jpg

Add one of these Omni upper sections:

omni.jpg

And you'll have a nice, relatively inexpensive quick hitch compatible rear drawbar setup. The one below is what I put together.

IMG_2128.jpg

But for even less than the price of the drawbar and Omni upper, you can get a complete 3PH receiver setup from Ebay for around $62 with free shipping.

3PH_draw.jpg
 

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I have the Deere LP250001 hitch. They sold it to me for about $90 when I was buying my tractor, but I think it lists for $139.
Heavy Hitch wants $239 for a similar hitch but theirs is designed to hold weights as well.
 

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I may be a bit odd, but I certainly dont prefer a ball hitch on a cart. My 17AT came with one, and Im removing it and making it like the 17P so I can use a standard pin.
Ive been pulling carts behind garden tractors for better than 30 years, and have had some ridiculously heavy loads, and never once had a pin come out. And by pin I mean we used to use a 5/8 bolt about 5" long. Up hills, down hills, along hills, over bumpy terrain, etc.
I now use a standard pin with a handle. Never even had one think about backing out, or if it did, it changed its mind before it did.

Now, converting one to a ball type hitch should be easy enough. Even if its not wide enough, it should be fairly simple to shim it with some flat stock purchased from a local hardware or farm supply store. Otherwise, bolt it up and go.

My biggest issue with the carts is the dump release. Deere makes a little known foot latch as a retrofit for the poly carts. Im adding that to my 17AT too, but it will take a bit more work than the standard hitch modification.
 

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My biggest issue with the carts is the dump release. Deere makes a little known foot latch as a retrofit for the poly carts. Im adding that to my 17AT too, but it will take a bit more work than the standard hitch modification.
Do you happen to have a style or p/n for the retrofit?

They changed the poly carts at some point. I've had my 17P quite a while and it has the little latch that you can attach a rope to. The neighbor got a 17P two years ago and his has the foot pedal. My other neighbor got a 10P two years ago and it too has the foot pedal but it keeps unlatching itself.

I've had my 17P scary loaded with back heavy loads and it has never unlatched on its own. I usually just reach down and flip the lever so having the foot pedal wouldn't do much for me.

JD doesn't seem to make any distinction between the two styles. You can go to Home Depot and pull up the assembly manual for a brand new 17P cart and it still shows the old release lever.

Even Brinly, who makes these carts still shows the old style release lever in the parts manual.

17P_latch.jpg
 

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Do you happen to have a style or p/n for the retrofit?

They changed the poly carts at some point. I've had my 17P quite a while and it has the little latch that you can attach a rope to. The neighbor got a 17P two years ago and his has the foot pedal. My other neighbor got a 10P two years ago and it too has the foot pedal but it keeps unlatching itself.

I've had my 17P scary loaded with back heavy loads and it has never unlatched on its own. I usually just reach down and flip the lever so having the foot pedal wouldn't do much for me.

JD doesn't seem to make any distinction between the two styles. You can go to Home Depot and pull up the assembly manual for a brand new 17P cart and it still shows the old release lever.

Even Brinly, who makes these carts still shows the old style release lever in the parts manual.

View attachment 600914
Part number is LP48017. Last I knew, it was a retrofit kit, so it included a few more parts than just the latch.

As to the unlatching, my guess is that it would have something to do with the angles of the cut that secures the cart itself, as its basically the other latch made at a different angle with the foot pedal on it.
 

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Part number is LP48017. Last I knew, it was a retrofit kit, so it included a few more parts than just the latch.
Found this on a JD site when I searched for that number:

A convenient foot pedal dump release kit, LP48017, which now comes standard on all 10P and 17P carts is available to retrofit existing poly carts. This kit allows the operator to use both hands to lift the cart bed for more natural and efficient unloading.

JD wants $30 for the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I may be a bit odd, but I certainly dont prefer a ball hitch on a cart. My 17AT came with one, and Im removing it and making it like the 17P so I can use a standard pin.
Ive been pulling carts behind garden tractors for better than 30 years, and have had some ridiculously heavy loads, and never once had a pin come out. And by pin I mean we used to use a 5/8 bolt about 5" long. Up hills, down hills, along hills, over bumpy terrain, etc.
I now use a standard pin with a handle. Never even had one think about backing out, or if it did, it changed its mind before it did.

Now, converting one to a ball type hitch should be easy enough. Even if its not wide enough, it should be fairly simple to shim it with some flat stock purchased from a local hardware or farm supply store. Otherwise, bolt it up and go.

My biggest issue with the carts is the dump release. Deere makes a little known foot latch as a retrofit for the poly carts. Im adding that to my 17AT too, but it will take a bit more work than the standard hitch modification.
I personally hate the footpedal dump function. The metal tab that faces forward to help guide the cart back down into the latch doesn't do it's job. The freaking bolts on my poly cart started to pull through which allows the U shape portion that goes into the metal guiding tab hit improperly.

Time to remove the bolts from the cart, slap down some 3/16" stainless steel bars that are 2" wide to spread the load and to prevent them from pulling though more.
 

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I have seen those JD magnetic hitch pins (LP63768), $15 at Home Depot. They would be pretty nice also.

View attachment 600826

When you see how the magnetic hitch pin is made you could probably make your own out of one of the red handled pins. Just have to find a donut shaped magnet and glue it on.
I picked up one of these magnetic pins for one of my Christmas presents and I love the thing. The magnet is very strong and requires good effort to remove the pin. I would highly recommend getting one of these if you have attachments that use the pin type of hitch.
 
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