Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks:
I have a 2005 5105 with Mid Mount SCV's for FEL and a single Rear SCV.

I dont use the Rear SCV much (occasionally with BB scarifiers), so when I recently tried to hook up the BB hose, the SCV only moved one way (down) and thenone of the hoses would pop out of the QD at the rear.

I took the SCV off and disassembled it per the TM. It was full of gunk (mud like oily substance) which was limiting the travel of the spool. I was really amazed at the amount of gunk in here. I bought the tractor used 3 years ago so havent owned it since new, but the gunk just kept coming out (I had to use gasoline to clean out the passages) and needless to say, I have already done a full flush of Hydraulic Fluid (all HyGard).

When I took the SCV off the there is a nut screwed onto a "stop" (as seen in the TM drawing and in picture below) that simply broke off (the "stop" is still stuck in the cap). The stop was obviously corroded as the cap was full of the gunk.

I have cleaned everything and out and have the spool etc back to full movement. I am ordering new O-rings (where available) and packings. Next stop is to check the QD's to see how bad they are given this SCV being upstream.

Thrree questions:

1) Anyone know what this stop does? Does it need to be adjustable or can I leave well enough alone? It looks like it may have been adjustable to limit the travel of the spool to perhaps fine tune the detent/float? I note there is not part number for it (looks like it is part of the SCV Assembly, which is lots of $$$) and I dont want to try and drill it out. See outline in red on picture and schematic

2) Anyone know if there is a comparable O-Ring to the one outline in blue on the schematic? It is not sold separately (again looks like part of the SCV Assembly) and the one in my SCV was disintegrated.

3) I cannot get the load check screw (#'s 6,7 &8 in schematic below) unscrewed. It is seized up. Is removing this screw and load check necessary for pulling the spool out? I am unable to remove the spool at the moment and dont want to force anything

Any other tips from anyone who has done this before?
725209
725210
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,520 Posts
I am guessing JD dealer parts could match up key 20, O-ring. I think it not being listed is an oversight.
It looks like to me, key 11, ball joint, held in by key 13, pin, has to come out to remove the spool.
No idea the purpose of key 18, maybe to lock out float? I would your tech manual would explain it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! I have pulled both of the pins (Key 13 & 25) and the Ball Joint (Key 11) still is inside the spool mechanism. I dont know if I have to twist the spool in a specific direction to "release" the Ball joint. I will need to pull it out to replace the packer (key 12) which is important to keep water and debris out (this was the most gunked up part!). See below from TM showing a "theory of operation" slide which shows a cut-away of the ball joint intersecting with the spool.
725227
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,520 Posts
Looking at your news post, The spool may have to come out the opposite end, towards cap 4, OR screw 31, bushing 30, and spring 29 must come off. This drawing makes it clearer.

The load check parts, 6, 7, & 8, will not keep the spool from coming out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your help Zebra. I took the valve to my local mechanic and he couldnt loosen the stuck screw and I agree, I dont think removing it is necessary to pull the spool. Given the delicate nature of the spool, i have been proceeding very gingerly with it. Key 28-31 have been removed easily but spool still not wanting to come out. It is clear that pulling the Ball Joint out is necessary, but just cant figure out how...I am going to play with it some more and see if there is a "perfect" combination of alignment that will allow the Ball Joint to be pulled.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,520 Posts
My guess is the seal key 12 is a press fit into the housing and it's holding the ball joint in. Maybe plug 23 has to come out and the spool has a hole for a punch to tap the ball joint from that opening out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I have removed 23, 24, 25, 13 and 12 but ball joint is still in there. I am going to get a better view into the hole created by the removal of Key 23 and see if there is any corrosion keeping the bottom of the ball joint from coming out of the spool. Maybe I am being too careful to avoid damaging and will see if tapping the bottom of it with a punch will help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,520 Posts
After removing the plug, key 23, can you see a hole in the spool, that will let you use a punch to hit the ball joint up and out?
I am still guessing it's the seal, key 12, that is holding the ball joint in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again Zebra. The schematic is unclear what Key 23 actually is. I think it is a metallic ring and rubber o-ring combo. There was a disintegrated rubber o-ring that came out. When I tapped on the bottom of the ball joint, it was clearly restricted by a mettalic ring. As I have the Key 23 part on order, I am going to wait until I receive that so I can see what the replacement looks like before using more force to get it out (in case it is not replaceable). Thanks again for your help. I will continue to update this thread as I proceed as it may be of benefit to others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Success! Thanks Zebra for the insight and reccomendation. The replacement "key 23" part came last night and it is indeed a metal and rubber combination piece. As such, the mettalic portion of the old key 23 was corroded into the main valve housing and holding the ball joint in place. Knowing I had the replacement in hand, I was able to be a little more forceful in removing it. After I did so, the ball joint came out and spool was able to be removed from the side. See result in picture below - The old "key 23 part" is still on the ball joint and the new "key 23" is the black ring on the plate. I have cleaned the ball joint and spool and I used a gun cleaning rod and patches to clean the inside of the SCV where the spool goes. The tolerances here are super tight so be very careful. Next step is to put it back together and then wait until I go back to the ranch and can put it on the tractor to see if my work paid off!
725673
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Alright everyone, for the benefit of those that come after me and need help, I finally got it all put back together.

In my first post above, I asked about the use of Key 18/19 (Nut / Stop) as my stop had been corroded and then sheared off (i.e. a portion of the stop was in the Cover (Key 17) and the other part was in the nut). In order to get all the balls back in the spool (Keys 21/15) and keep them there while you slide the cover down, you have to remove the stop, so I first made sure I could procure a new stop (JD doesnt sell it on its own) so I found that a simple hex head threaded screw from home depot (3/8' coarse thread) was a perfect match and then soaked the cover with the sheared screw in penetrating oil and gently drilled into the stuck stop and then reversed it right out! I next placed a punch or rod through the cover where the stop was, depressed the spring and balls once you have placed them in the spool and slide the cover down (the cover depresses the small balls which holds the big ball in place). A word of warning, the re-insertion of the balls is a major pain. I had to get my wife to help as you need at least three hands.

Finally, once the balls are in place and the cover is back on, you have to adjust the cover, lock nut (key 16) and stop (key 19) so that the spool can travel back and forth when depressing the lever. In other words, the cover, lock nut, nut and stop are all adjustable so as to control the travel of the spool (and the flow into the remotes). My tractor is at my ranch so I havent hooked it back up again, but at least as far as I can without the tractor, the SCV has full range of motion now, including detent function and I saved the $900+Labour the dealer wanted to replace it.

Cleaning your SCV is definitely doable, but reccomend you undertake this task at a well lit work bench (a nice bench vise would have made this job easier - I had to do it at the kitchen table) along with plenty of patience. Take plenty of pictures of the valve orientation etc prior to taking it apart. I used my phone to video my dissassembly as well, which I referenced when putting it all back together. Finally, the TM cautions about keeping track of the detent balls when disassmebling. Pay attention to this caution. While my SCV was so gunked up, the balls didnt fly out, when putting it back together, on one of several attempts, the balls went flying across the kitchen. If not flying out, they like to fall out of the hole before you have slid the cover back one - the trick to getting them to stay in place when re-assembling is a dab of vaseline.

Hope my adventure helps some others - always happy to answer any questions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,520 Posts
Thanks for posting conclusion. I was guessing the stop was also for reassembly of the balls.
Older valves had a bronze vent you had to remove.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top