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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I'd start a new thread with a better title for the new to me 420.

Just picked it up this week, it has 258 real hours on it, came with a 47" 2 stage snow blower, a 60" belly mower, a 54" 4-way plow a rear weight bar with 6 weights, and a JD25 dump trailer.

#1) It came with Turf tires all around so as it is fast approaching snow season I bought a pair of Deestone D405 tires, $81.99 - Deestone D405 26/12.00-12 tires | Buy Deestone D405 tires at SimpleTire , and am in the process of trying to find a pair of 12x10.5 rims to mount them on.

#2) Also picked up a small electric broadcast spreader for salting.

#3) I would like to add, LED floods both front and rear, a beacon on a light bar, and a dash attachment for an oil pressure gauge, volt meter, switches for the spreader and the lights and beacon. If anyone has any ideas I'd like to see or hear them.

#4) haven't looked yet, but noticed an empty hole where the rear electric pto clutch switch should be so I'm guessing that was an option I may not have yet. And it is also missing the optional 3 pt hitch. Both of which I'd like to add.
 

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Hiya

Now that's some low hours for a 27+ year old unit! Talk about a find. I had a 430 with 2000+ hours on it. Yes, the rear PTO and 3pt were dealer add ons normally.

The rear PTO isn't a standard 540 RPM type, it spins at 2000 I think, I believe the only attachments it powered was the hydraulic tiller and the PTO powered blower on the "lift and dump" MCS system. (Although I did see a 430 at a county fair once that had a hydraulic PTO powered pump on the 3pt hitch but it might have been made by the owner)

If I'm remembering my stuff correctly, the 3pt is the same as the one for the 318/322/332 and 430's. They are all cat 0. The top link maybe slightly longer on the 420/430 series but I'm not too sure on that. Deere at one time made a cute little ballast box for them.

I would get a set of wheel weights for the rear, load the turfs and get a set of chains for the snowblowing instead of swapping out the tires. I have found turfs have more traction on snow than other tires, even without chains.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It came with a new set of chains, but I was thinking the AG tires would do better. I guess I'll have to do a comparison.

Tomorrows plan is to maybe design some brackets for my 2 post lift to lift this beast, I used to just sling the JD140, but that was a much lighter machine. After that I may pull off the mower deck and work on some lighting and maybe a modified dash board. Looking at the height of that blower I may need to mount lights pretty high, maybe on a light bar overhead. Looking at the weather it looks like I have time before our first snow. As long as mother nature doesn't get *****y.. :)

Eric
 

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I have always had turf tires on the 318 and 420, but have always run chains. I also would find the 75# wheel weights I have also put tubes in the front tires, asthe weight of the blower caused problems with the beads braking. I also run max inflation in the front tires (14 psi)(?). I have a cozy cab on the 420, so light mounting was never an issue.

Is the weight bracket the one that hooks over the rockshaft at the top and bolts to the hitch plate at the bottom?
You could fabricate and mount a light bar for the back. It would require the brackets for the 3 bushel bagger. Two of the brackets bolt between the rear axle and the hitch plate. The other two replace the brackets that hold the rear rockshaft in position at the end of the frame. This would give you 4 solid mounting locations to come up behind the tractor with a hoop to mount your lights. This should also clear your weight rack.

A tip for removal of the mower deck, run the front of the tractor onto a couple of 2x4's under the front wheels. This will increase the under tractor clearance to allow the gear box to clear the frame. I use a small floor jack to pick up each side of the mower to take weight off the clevis pins on the rear draft arms. Run a sling or chain around the right side rear wheel mount and pull the mower deck out from under the tractor.

Dave
 

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Go to the closets Lowes/Home Depot/Hardware store and get a small 1-2 ton jack, 1.) Using jack to lift front of tractor. 2.) Release front wheel spring tensions by pulling pin clip and remove bracket attachment for spring. 3.) Lift rear of deck, one side at a time and rotate rear wheels to allow deck to wheel out from under tractor. You will have to adjust deck around hydraulic pump/hose and turn the front wheels to allow deck to scoot by.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have always had turf tires on the 318 and 420, but have always run chains. I also would find the 75# wheel weights I have also put tubes in the front tires, asthe weight of the blower caused problems with the beads braking. I also run max inflation in the front tires (14 psi)(?). I have a cozy cab on the 420, so light mounting was never an issue.

Is the weight bracket the one that hooks over the rockshaft at the top and bolts to the hitch plate at the bottom?
You could fabricate and mount a light bar for the back. It would require the brackets for the 3 bushel bagger. Two of the brackets bolt between the rear axle and the hitch plate. The other two replace the brackets that hold the rear rockshaft in position at the end of the frame. This would give you 4 solid mounting locations to come up behind the tractor with a hoop to mount your lights. This should also clear your weight rack.

A tip for removal of the mower deck, run the front of the tractor onto a couple of 2x4's under the front wheels. This will increase the under tractor clearance to allow the gear box to clear the frame. I use a small floor jack to pick up each side of the mower to take weight off the clevis pins on the rear draft arms. Run a sling or chain around the right side rear wheel mount and pull the mower deck out from under the tractor.

Dave
Yes the weight bracket is the one you described. I was thinking of mounting the light bar on the weight bar, and mount separate work lights on the front of the hood for when I'm not using the blower.

I'm hoping to be able to put the tractor on my lift, so should be easy to remove the mower deck. Just disconnect and lift the tractor off of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Go to the closets Lowes/Home Depot/Hardware store and get a small 1-2 ton jack, 1.) Using jack to lift front of tractor. 2.) Release front wheel spring tensions by pulling pin clip and remove bracket attachment for spring. 3.) Lift rear of deck, one side at a time and rotate rear wheels to allow deck to wheel out from under tractor. You will have to adjust deck around hydraulic pump/hose and turn the front wheels to allow deck to scoot by.:bigthumb:
Don't need to travel, I own EVERY TOOL, :) , it's an addiction.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quick Question, I don't have the service books for anything yet, what is in the gearbox on the mower and the snow blower? grease or 90wt ?

Oh , any suggestions on where to get the manuals, service and owners? Dealer, or is there a better source?

Eric
 

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If there is a hole in the dash your tractor had a rear pto at some point in time. Part of the install was drilling the hole.

Weight brackets are different based on if you have a 3 point of not.

If you have any hills then you will need close to 550lbs of ballast including the operator. And yes make sure front tires are at max pressure, I’ve had several break the bead on the first storm of any season.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If there is a hole in the dash your tractor had a rear pto at some point in time. Part of the install was drilling the hole.

Weight brackets are different based on if you have a 3 point of not.

If you have any hills then you will need close to 550lbs of ballast including the operator. And yes make sure front tires are at max pressure, I’ve had several break the bead on the first storm of any season.
I'm going to be playing with it today when the sun breaks, I'll check out the front tires and make sure they are in good shape, should I buy a better tire for the fronts? Maybe 8 ply's?
 

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I have 4 ply on mine, even the loader. I’ve had 2 ply which worked fine with just a snowblower, but they had to be full pressure.

With a higher ply you get a much stiffer ride even at low pressures. You’ll notice that especially on the rear. High ply or pressure and you’ll have a miserable ride especially with chains.



The 420 and 140 have 4 ply fronts. The x475 has 2-ply, but due to cracking they are about to be changed.

The 140 and x475 have turfs and chains on the rear and about 200lbs ballast. The loader has Ag tires and 800lbs ballast and is the worst of the bunch in snow, it struggles to back up on the slightest incline. I add another 3-400 if I need to use it for pushing snow.
 

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Hiya

Now that's some low hours for a 27+ year old unit! Talk about a find. I had a 430 with 2000+ hours on it. Yes, the rear PTO and 3pt were dealer add ons normally.

The rear PTO isn't a standard 540 RPM type, it spins at 2000 I think, I believe the only attachments it powered was the hydraulic tiller and the PTO powered blower on the "lift and dump" MCS system. (Although I did see a 430 at a county fair once that had a hydraulic PTO powered pump on the 3pt hitch but it might have been made by the owner)

If I'm remembering my stuff correctly, the 3pt is the same as the one for the 318/322/332 and 430's. They are all cat 0. The top link maybe slightly longer on the 420/430 series but I'm not too sure on that. Deere at one time made a cute little ballast box for them.

I would get a set of wheel weights for the rear, load the turfs and get a set of chains for the snowblowing instead of swapping out the tires. I have found turfs have more traction on snow than other tires, even without chains.
At the time the 420 was Produced Deere OEM rear PTO attachments the Hydraulic tiller could Be run either Rear or Mid PTO. But there was also standard 48inch 2000RPM Mechanical shaft driven Tiller and two different 3point Grooming Mowers available as well MCS system available with either Tilt Dump or Hydraulic Lift and Dump. which utilized a Rear Hydraulic Outlet Kit and either a shaft driven Blower or a engine driven Blower.

To the OP if You Can find a 2000RPM rear PTO Kit There are a few Manufacturers That still Make 2000RPM 3point attachments such as BEFCO BEFCO - Till-Rite T30 (16-30 HP tractor) PTO at 2000 rpm and reverse rotation available upon request. :bigthumb:
 

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Yes the weight bracket is the one you described. I was thinking of mounting the light bar on the weight bar, and mount separate work lights on the front of the hood for when I'm not using the blower.

I'm hoping to be able to put the tractor on my lift, so should be easy to remove the mower deck. Just disconnect and lift the tractor off of it.
That's almost like cheating:good2:

You will still need to raise the back of the deck to release the weight on the rear draft arm pins though.

As for lighting when the blower is off, I fabricated a bumper that mounted in place of the blower mount on the front of tthe frame. I mounted lights in that, and ran power from the harness for the headlights. AS I recall, there are two 1/2" holes on both sides of the frame, one that the blower mount pins lock into, and another hole just behind or below that one. I fabricated plates that would extend about 2-1/2" beyond the front of the frame, and welded a 1-1/2' pipe between the plates. I then welded a piece of 1/4" x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 angle drilled to mpount the light on. The primary purpose was for a bumper, as I had two 8 year olds just itching to run the tractor. Figured it was cheaper to put a bumper than replace/repair the front of the tractor.

Dave
 

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You don’t need to raise the back. Lift the mower, adjust the depth stop then lower.
 

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Hiya

Now that's some low hours for a 27+ year old unit! Talk about a find. I had a 430 with 2000+ hours on it. Yes, the rear PTO and 3pt were dealer add ons normally.

The rear PTO isn't a standard 540 RPM type, it spins at 2000 I think, I believe the only attachments it powered was the hydraulic tiller and the PTO powered blower on the "lift and dump" MCS system. (Although I did see a 430 at a county fair once that had a hydraulic PTO powered pump on the 3pt hitch but it might have been made by the owner)

If I'm remembering my stuff correctly, the 3pt is the same as the one for the 318/322/332 and 430's. They are all cat 0. The top link maybe slightly longer on the 420/430 series but I'm not too sure on that. Deere at one time made a cute little ballast box for them.

I would get a set of wheel weights for the rear, load the turfs and get a set of chains for the snowblowing instead of swapping out the tires. I have found turfs have more traction on snow than other tires, even without chains.
If you do get the rear PTO and 3 pt, I have a 10KW generator set up for 2000 RPM, that I would give a good price on. If you might be interested, PM me and I can send you some pictutes. It is a generator head mounted to a framework that a shaft and timing belt pully runs the head. It is cat 0 so should hook right up. You will need a drive shaft set up for it, as I had used the one that went with my previous tractor that was for the tiller.
Good luck with your new unit!
Bill

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The 420 is a great L&G Tractor. Some would say it was JD's best gasoline powered model. The subsequent 4X5 models didn't have a two-speed transaxle and the frames were not as robust. The plastic body panels were also problematic.

I had a 420 for many years and it served me well as a mower and with a front mount, Quick Hitch 47 Snowblower. If you could find an original rear weight bracket you'd be good to go with turf tires, chains and a full rack of 42# suitcase weights.

Make sure you go over the engine and replace any dried out and / or cracked fuel lines. It might be worthwhile to just remove the rear fender deck and just replace them all. Those fuel hoses will deteriorate and you'll end up with rubber bits (coffee grounds) fouling your fuel pump and carburetor.

Use some compressed air to blow any debris out of the engine cooling shrouds and keep them clean.

Don't go overboard with lighting as the charging system is marginal at best. If the battery needs replacing purchase a good, high capacity or deep cycle battery. You'll then have a bit of reserve capacity to handle "some" lighting upgrades. Again, you'll probably be lucky to get 5-7 amps out of the charging system.

Check or change all the fluids, grease all the Zerks including the front axle pivot, lube the linkage pivot points and have fun. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That's almost like cheating:good2:

You will still need to raise the back of the deck to release the weight on the rear draft arm pins though.

As for lighting when the blower is off, I fabricated a bumper that mounted in place of the blower mount on the front of tthe frame. I mounted lights in that, and ran power from the harness for the headlights. AS I recall, there are two 1/2" holes on both sides of the frame, one that the blower mount pins lock into, and another hole just behind or below that one. I fabricated plates that would extend about 2-1/2" beyond the front of the frame, and welded a 1-1/2' pipe between the plates. I then welded a piece of 1/4" x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 angle drilled to mpount the light on. The primary purpose was for a bumper, as I had two 8 year olds just itching to run the tractor. Figured it was cheaper to put a bumper than replace/repair the front of the tractor.

Dave
You're obviously smarter than me, when my kids were in the 4-8 range they drove the 140 into pretty much anything they could find. It didn't have head lights or a grill for long. I think I'll take your advise though, I have a 9 year old grandson now. :)

On the rear I have to mount my salt spreader, so I'll make brackets off the weight bar and the fender bolts beside the seat and I'll add a back flood to that. Going to use all LED's to keep the amps down.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The 420 is a great L&G Tractor. Some would say it was JD's best gasoline powered model. The subsequent 4X5 models didn't have a two-speed transaxle and the frames were not as robust. The plastic body panels were also problematic.

I had a 420 for many years and it served me well as a mower and with a front mount, Quick Hitch 47 Snowblower. If you could find an original rear weight bracket you'd be good to go with turf tires, chains and a full rack of 42# suitcase weights.

Make sure you go over the engine and replace any dried out and / or cracked fuel lines. It might be worthwhile to just remove the rear fender deck and just replace them all. Those fuel hoses will deteriorate and you'll end up with rubber bits (coffee grounds) fouling your fuel pump and carburetor.

Use some compressed air to blow any debris out of the engine cooling shrouds and keep them clean.

Don't go overboard with lighting as the charging system is marginal at best. If the battery needs replacing purchase a good, high capacity or deep cycle battery. You'll then have a bit of reserve capacity to handle "some" lighting upgrades. Again, you'll probably be lucky to get 5-7 amps out of the charging system.

Check or change all the fluids, grease all the Zerks including the front axle pivot, lube the linkage pivot points and have fun. :good2:
Good Idea on the fuel lines, I did grease everything today on the tractor and the mower deck, I'll drop the mower in the morning and grease the snow blower and get that setup and working. Any idea what grease or fluid is in the gear box on the mower and the blower?
 

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Good Idea on the fuel lines, I did grease everything today on the tractor and the mower deck, I'll drop the mower in the morning and grease the snow blower and get that setup and working. Any idea what grease or fluid is in the gear box on the mower and the blower?
80W- 90 GL-5 gear oil is fine.


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