Short answer=No difference. We like to use the term JDQA.
JDQA and Curtis FEL Plow Question's
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Good deal Jeff!
FYI: I changed the title of the thread so it is more inline with the topic.
In the other thread at: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2968-H120-loader-Plow You stated you where going to use the dump/curl circuit on your loader to control the angle of the plow blade. I took that to mean you where going to disconnect the hoses from the loader and hook them to the plow hoping it (the plow) would stay level. There are a few things you should be aware of:
1) If you have any leakage (internally) of the valve or cylinders then the plow will not stay up. Most if not all machines have this problem, and JD even has a "acceptable" leakdown chart to put in your face if you complain-BTDT. 4vertical (Aaron) mentioned in post #21 about removing the cylinders and replacing with solid rods.
2) Setting the angle of attack of the plow will determine how well it works, and not being able to change that on the fly will be frustrating. Lets just say you where trying to pile snow really high (if we ever get enough to try that is :lol
If you have the plow set for on the ground, when you raise it up the angle will be all wrong to help pile the snow.
3) When I had mine, I found I could not float the loader, the blade always dug in and the front wheels would come up-plowing with it was frustrating to say the least me. I am not trying to knock you plans down or discourage you0but rather just give you a heads up of potential problems so you are aware. I do wish you luck with it!
FYI: I changed the title of the thread so it is more inline with the topic.
In the other thread at: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2968-H120-loader-Plow You stated you where going to use the dump/curl circuit on your loader to control the angle of the plow blade. I took that to mean you where going to disconnect the hoses from the loader and hook them to the plow hoping it (the plow) would stay level. There are a few things you should be aware of:
1) If you have any leakage (internally) of the valve or cylinders then the plow will not stay up. Most if not all machines have this problem, and JD even has a "acceptable" leakdown chart to put in your face if you complain-BTDT. 4vertical (Aaron) mentioned in post #21 about removing the cylinders and replacing with solid rods.
2) Setting the angle of attack of the plow will determine how well it works, and not being able to change that on the fly will be frustrating. Lets just say you where trying to pile snow really high (if we ever get enough to try that is :lol
If you have the plow set for on the ground, when you raise it up the angle will be all wrong to help pile the snow.3) When I had mine, I found I could not float the loader, the blade always dug in and the front wheels would come up-plowing with it was frustrating to say the least me. I am not trying to knock you plans down or discourage you0but rather just give you a heads up of potential problems so you are aware. I do wish you luck with it!
Thanks for the input Kenny.FYI: I changed the title of the thread so it is more inline with the topic.
In the other thread at: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2968-H120-loader-Plow You stated you where going to use the dump/curl circuit on your loader to control the angle of the plow blade. I took that to mean you where going to disconnect the hoses from the loader and hook them to the plow hoping it (the plow) would stay level. There are a few things you should be aware of:
1) If you have any leakage (internally) of the valve or cylinders then the plow will not stay up. Most if not all machines have this problem, and JD even has a "acceptable" leakdown chart to put in your face if you complain-BTDT. 4vertical (Aaron) mentioned in post #21 about removing the cylinders and replacing with solid rods.
2) Setting the angle of attack of the plow will determine how well it works, and not being able to change that on the fly will be frustrating. Lets just say you where trying to pile snow really high (if we ever get enough to try that is :lol
3) When I had mine, I found I could not float the loader, the blade always dug in and the front wheels would come up-plowing with it was frustrating to say the least me. I am not trying to knock you plans down or discourage you0but rather just give you a heads up of potential problems so you are aware. I do wish you luck with it!
I am aware of all the problems you mentioned even the leake down, I had just not took it into account. This is not my perfered choice for a plow either but eveyone know this snow equipment is high priced stuff.:gaah: How ever heres my thinking, to buy the angle kit alone for most plows out there it would cost more than what I paid for this plow complete, come summer if I don't like the fel mount system I will have most of the parts to to make a frame mount system with a little fab work and come up with a lift of some kind and hopfully I will still be ahead in the $$$ wars:unknown:
I guess it will be a learning exrierance for me and maybe some help to others thinking about this rout in a plow, I will say though IF I was going to pay gull price for a plow it would be a fram mont system or my personal prefence is a snow pusher but these can be a little too big for personal use.
Great name for the thread Kenny,:good2: Thanks again.:drinks:
Wanted to add:1) If you have any leakage (internally) of the valve or cylinders then the plow will not stay up. Most if not all machines have this problem, and JD even has a "acceptable" leakdown chart to put in your face if you complain-BTDT. 4vertical (Aaron) mentioned in post #21 about removing the cylinders and replacing with solid rods.
2) Setting the angle of attack of the plow will determine how well it works, and not being able to change that on the fly will be frustrating. Lets just say you where trying to pile snow really high (if we ever get enough to try that is :lol
3) When I had mine, I found I could not float the loader, the blade always dug in and the front wheels would come up-plowing with it was frustrating to say the least me. I am not trying to knock you plans down or discourage you0but rather just give you a heads up of potential problems so you are aware. I do wish you luck with it!
4) When you need to connect or disconnect the lines, be sure there is no pressure on them or you will have a very hard time. Example: If the plow is hanging to low and you need to re-connect the dump/curl lines to fix it-then be sure to support the weight of the plow and wiggle the joystick (tractor OFF) before trying to unhook the lines. You probably knew this but I wanted to mention it for others reading as well.
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
