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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some of the mods I had to make to my 14" Jet bandsaw.
The poor quality of the original build is something to behold

1) I had to rework the lower wheel mounting set up. As you adjusted the tension on the upper wheel the bottom wheel would also tilt up more. The wheel was mounted thru a sheet metal box that flexed. I made 3/4" Fortal plate for the outside and 1/2 plates on the inside and filled the inside of the box with Devcon. This stiffened up the bottom wheel so that when you tension the blade it stays fixed now.

2) The upper tracking adjustments. I had to stiffen up the adjuster for the tracking. Again, mounted in thin sheet metal so that when there was tension on the blade the sheet metal flexed. The nut finally stripped out. So I made a large 3/8 thk steel plate mounted it on the inside against the sheet metal and used a 1" thick coupling nut instead of the standard nut the original design used. I also went from 10mm x 1.5 thread to 7/16-20 so now the adjustment is slightly finer. Now way you can strip it out and flex the back of the machine anymore when adjusting the tracking.

3) The upper tension adjustments. I had to make a wider block so that the quick release of the tension worked better. The old design had a 14mm pin laying 90 degrees to the cam so that there was a very minute contact point. This point of contact ended up getting all galled up causing the quick release lever to bind. Now with a .8 wide block rubbing on the .8 wide cam the sliding surfaces are very large and shouldn't end up galling. I also made a block that held the bottom of the tension spring. The old design used a standard nut welded to a 1/4 thick plate. The old tension rod treads were getting stripped out from the pressure. I replaced the old nut/plate ass'y with a 1" key stk bar that I threaded thru. No more stripping of threads.
The reworked assembly now works smoother than when new.

4) the lower blade guide wheels. I made a new lower guide setup that raises the wheels closer to the working table. Along with this the backing wheel now tracks square to the blade while the original design was crooked causing the bottom of the blade to want to shift to one side while cutting.

I bought a blade tension gage as the tension gage that came with the saw was total useless. You could not get the tension even close to where it was supposed to be according to the original gage. The tension of the blade was one of my biggest issues as you can see from above. When you adjust the tracking it effect the tension of the blade. You have to re-tension after tracking adjustments are made.

Overall I would say that if I had to do it agan I'd buy a different band saw from a different mfg'r instead of Jet. I'd also buy larger one instead of 14" I bought the 14" cause its sawing dimensions were where I needed to be for sawing logs into lumber.

I have a Jet and a Grizzly machines and both are low quality junk. If your going to do light occasional work then you might get by.

Here are some pictures.

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Back side of top of wheel, you can see the 7/16-20 bolt and lock nut used for adjusting tracking along with the 6) 1/4-20 screws that hold the 3/8 plate for the nut on the inside. They are the 2 right to the left and right and the pair above and below the adjusting bolt. We call adjusting bolts like that Franenstein bolts for obvious reasons.

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Here is the inside of the 3/8 plate with the coupling nut for adjusting the tracking.


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Here you can see the 1" key stk on the bottom of the tension spring and up and behind the spring the cam and the new rub block that works the quick tension release.

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A better shot of the rub block and cam.

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The stiffening plates on the lower wheel mounting setup.

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The inside mounting plates for the lower wheel that stiffen up the whole bottom of the machine.

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Last my new and improved lower guide wheel setup
 

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A very good lesson about why we should take good care of older tools -- they can't replaced with the same quaility without going to much higher price point (if at all!).

This is disappointing -- Jet had a good reputation! (Was the saw made in China or Taiwan? That's the metric I use with Grizzly tools.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Made In China.

I'll agree with you about older tools. I have been watching for good used stuff for awhile.

Lots of machining on the thing was just bad. turned down shaft that wasn't even close to concentric. When its easily visible by eye that's pretty bad.
Socket on adjusting screws were very loose. I ended up modding a hex wrench to fit the socket.
Stuff like that, just really shody manufacturing.
 

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I'll agree with you about older tools. I have been watching for good used stuff for awhile.
One advantage I have by living in Florida -- estate sales every week!
 

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I think that lower wheel is on backwards. The back of the blade should be riding on the ridge of the wheel, not the teeth.
 
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