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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I'm finally tired of my 140's crooked steering, and I think a lot of people are. From center, the steering is like this:
To full lock left: Normal 140 is about 2 turns, Larry is 2 1/2 turns.
To full lock right: Normal 140 is about 1 1/2, Larry is 1 turn.
The steering is 1/2 turn of the wheel off, which is AWFUL.

My fixes and upgrades:
-Replace all tie rod ends with greasable ball joints
-Replace the non-adjustable drag link with threaded rod and 2 ball joints
-Thrust bearing for steering box

That's about it. With the current upgrades, it would steer easier, wear less, and allow for more steering adjustment freedom, so you can get rid of the pesky lopsided steering.

Prices (mcmaster-carr):
Ball joint with grease fitting, right hand thread, 7.59$ each, 4 needed
Ball joint with grease fitting, left hand thread, 7.59$ each, 2 needed
One piece steel thrust ball bearing, 5/8" shaft diameter, 19.93$ each, 1 needed for 110, 112, 120, 140
One piece steel thrust ball bearing, 3/4" shaft diameter, 19.93$ each, 1 needed for 300, 312, 316K
Ball joint rod end seals, 1/2" hole diameter, 5.62$ pair, 6 pairs needed, 1 for each ball joint end

So far, the upgrade is looking to be about 100$, but that's not including the threaded rod.

I do have one question, how long is the drag link for the 140? I need to figure out how long of threaded rod is needed for the drag link.
 

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If your steering is crooked all you need to do to center it is adjust the drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If your steering is crooked all you need to do to center it is adjust the drag link.
That's why I'm asking about the length of the drag link. It's non-adjustable. That's the problem. Mine is a bit wore out which is probably a contributor to the crooked steering.
 

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Mudrig, Remove Pitman arm from steering box, center steering wheel (lock to lock), re-attach steering arm. Also, there's a fair amount of pressure exerted on your drag link. If you still end up replacing that, get heat treated threaded rod. Heat with torch to bend and try to slow cool...bury in a box of sand! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mudrig, Remove Pitman arm from steering box, center steering wheel (lock to lock), re-attach steering arm. Also, there's a fair amount of pressure exerted on your drag link. If you still end up replacing that, get heat treated threaded rod. Heat with torch to bend and try to slow cool...bury in a box of sand! Bob
I tried adjusting it that way. Doing it like that is just the equivalent of just turning the steering wheel. You have to adjust the drag link to get any sort of effect, and on the early closed frames adjusting anything except the toe is impossible.
 

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Ok, if your drag link isn’t adjustable then center your steering wheel and adjust both tie rods until the wheels are actually straight.


Slop in steering is independent of centering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, if your drag link isn’t adjustable then center your steering wheel and adjust both tie rods until the wheels are actually straight.


Slop in steering is independent of centering.
I don't think there is enough adjustment there. I mean, there are almost no threads left to center the steering. Plus I want easy steering.
 

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I don't think there is enough adjustment there. I mean, there are almost no threads left to center the steering. Plus I want easy steering.
Easy steering has nothing to do with your alignment/steering center just like slop is not related.

If your tierods don’t have enough adjustment to center the steering and the drag link is not adjustable then something in the steering is bent, or not the correct part.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Easy steering has nothing to do with your alignment/steering center just like slop is not related.

If your tierods don’t have enough adjustment to center the steering and the drag link is not adjustable then something in the steering is bent, or not the correct part.
Cub cadet pitman arm on a deere steering box is probably not helping. I mean, we do have 4 tractors that need fixed steering.

Question, how long is the drag link for the steering?
 

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No clue how long the one you need is. It won’t be the same as stock.

Good luck
 

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Mudrig, You can measure this yourself.

With tires straight/forward and existing drag link removed: Turn steering wheel to full left lock and measure from mounting point on Pitman arm to mounting point on pivot bracket...green bracket in your drawing. Let's say that's 36". Now turn steering wheel to full right lock and measure. Let's say that's 28". Add these together, divide by 2, and that's the ASSEMBLED length of your drag link...32" using my out of the air numbers! You'll need rod ends to determine thread-in and length of threaded rod.

Another method is to jack front of tractor and remove drag link. Push/pull tires to full left turn and turn steering wheel to full left turn lock. Measure mounting points for drag link. Push/pull tires to full right turn and turn steering wheel to full right turn lock and measure drag link mounting points. These two measurements should be the same and equal the measurement you got by my first method. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
7 inches is the total length.
After removing the length of the new ball joint ends, that ends up at about 3.5 inches.

I'm going for 3" of rod, to shorten up the drag link to try and make some difference. It might not fix the problem, but it'll at least allow me to freaking steer right.

To upgrade the steering box and add an adjustable drag link, it's going to be around 65$.

Eventually, I'm going to add a grease zerk relocation kit for the steering box zerk and the 2 ball joint zerks.
 
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