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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently bought a one owner 245. Seller claimed he bought it nos from an Orlando dealer in 2007 for $2800 and used it to mow his own yard until he moved to a house with a small yard and had put it in storage for a few years before selling. No way to verify this and there isn't an hour meter. The mower came with all the paperwork. What I can verify is the serial number states it's a 1994. No rust anywhere, plastic is in perfect shape, deck looks new top side and underside. Seat is in great shape and everything is in working order. Mower didn't want to run unless on choke so I broke the carb down and removed all the jets and cleaned them out it runs perfect at all rpms . I changed the oil, plug and deck belt and adjusted the shifter so it returns to neutral when the brake is pressed. my question is that when I was getting ready to change the hydro oil I noticed a arm on the right side of the trans looking from the back of the tractor. Its not connected to anything and has a bolt with a bearing on the end of the bolt. Right above this arm is a lever shaped like a T that is connected to the shifter. It looks as the shifter lever is to contact the bearing. I spent 20 minutes moving the two arms to see how they would interact and can't come up with a solution. There isn't much online on the 245 and it appears it was made for only two years. I think the arm has something to do with adding tension on the shifter and possibly connects with a spring. There are two springs in the tool box that I don't know where they go. Everything works fine so I'm at a loss. I will post some photos of the leaver as soon as I can take them.





 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the arm. There was a bolt where the hole is on the end that held a bearing. Any help would be appreciated. It's gonna bug me until I figure it out.


 

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I think I figured it out. Talking to myself always works.
Well? I cannot go to bed without resolution...! Help me out here! You can't leave me like this... If you don't give me the answer, you're walking home!!:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lol. I was looking at the photos and in the photo I can see grease transfer marks from the bearing on the outside of the arm shaped like a T( yellow arrow in photo). I could not see these markings when under the mower due to lighting and accessibility. The bolt that holds the bearing extends past the bearing and has one nut for the bearing and a second nylon lock nut. That's where the spring attaches and there must be an attachment point on the frame. The spring is used to keep the bearing contacted to the T shaped arm. That notch in the T arm is probably neutral and each side forward and reverse. This arm is probably there to limit movement of the shifter in bumpy and hilly terrain. Living in flat Florida it's probably not noticeable that it's been disconnected.

 

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Ahhhh.... that's better! :laugh:

Some of those "disconnected parts" games can be perplexing. I had a spring break on my GX335 and it took a virtual trip to John Deere Parts John Deere - Parts Catalog (Plug your model number in the box) (I suggest going to the "Transmission" section") to see the right where the spring came from. It also located the connection points for both ends. Nothing like a 'sploded drawing to add to a photo. Some of the photos in JD's manuals are so poorly printed in grayscale that one needs that drawing to make sense of the pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info

The gauge of the spring in the tool
Box was far too big to be a tension spring. I used a smaller gauge spring from my parts bin and it fit perfect. The arm applies just enough tension to keep the shifter arm from traveling on its own.

I changed the hydro oil and filter today. Owners manual (not shop manual) says 2.5L. I could only get 2L in the case but the double x's on the stick say full. I did run it for 5 min back and forth to move oil to the lines and through the filter and no change. I'll keep an eye on it. It's disappointing the manual wasn't spec.

Used it for the second time today to mow just under 2 acres of 3' tall bahaia in an hour. Nice little machine.
 

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Glad you're sprung again!:laugh: I just changed the trans oil in my GX335 and it takes way less than the book sez which caused a mini "environmental disaster". Plain ol' cat litter to the rescue. Made a note in the manual to prevent this in future.:good2:

Nice lawn!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks I may put a mulch kit on the deck but it's the older 48" deck and I'm not sure if I can still find one. The other option is finding a 44m deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also does anyone know if the bolts on the mower blades are regular or reverse thread? They are on pretty good and I don't want to turn them the wrong way.
 

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All the JD blade bolts that I know of are "regular", anti-clockwise = loosen, clockwise = tighten.

I wonder who uses reverse bolts on mowers anymore? :unknown::munch:
 

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Also does anyone know if the bolts on the mower blades are regular or reverse thread? They are on pretty good and I don't want to turn them the wrong way.

Counter clockwise is lefty loosely.

Jam the blade by putting a block of wood between it and the deck. Get some kind of impact gun to remove the bolt. I usually use a 1/4" drive battery powered Makita or 3/8" drive air powered Snap On impact guns. If neither of them works I get out the Mac 1/2" drive impact gun.
For some reason I cannot get enough leverage with my long Mac 1/2" drive ratchet. Probably because it has a swivel head.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gonna have to get the torch if deep creep won't break them. 650lb air impact didn't work. I'll wait to do it this winter if we have one this year.
 

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Gonna have to get the torch if deep creep won't break them. 650lb air impact didn't work. I'll wait to do it this winter if we have one this year.
Wow that bolt is really in there. I'm amazed that the head didn't brake off with all that torque.
Is it just one of the 3 that won't come out or all 3 of them?
Do you have the deck off or is it still on the tractor? Penetrating spritz works better if it has the help of gravity. So it would be best to remove it and turn it upside down.

Another tool that you can try is an impact driver. They are a metal cylinder about 6" long with a 3/8 square drive on the end. Put a good socket on the end of the tool. Most of them can be used to tighten as well as remove. Once the socket is on the bolt you spin the whole body of the tool in the direction you want it to turn. Then take your big hammer and give it a good whack on the end of the tool. Between the downward and counter clockwise force it's usually enough to get the bolt to move.
Taking your time also helps. Spray the bolt then give it a couple hits then spray it again. Wait a couple hours then repeat. Eventually it will come loose.

Another problem I ran into was the socket I was using. My normal impact would just sit and hammer away. Then I realized that the socket had a hairline crack in it. So the socket was just spreading instead of turning the bolt. It was a Snap On socket so it was under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
All 3. I ended up warping one of the bolt heads that's gonna be a fun time with vice grips and a metal pipe. I'll work on it this winter when the grass isn't growing. Mowing with a Honda 217 isn't as fun.

Tractor data said the trans is a Sundstrand BDU-21. Is that a tuff torq/Kanzaki product? From what I read about Sundstrand BDU-21's it's a well made unit. The Jd 240 and 260 have tuff torq and the next model with a Sundstrand BDU-21 is the Jd 265
 

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All 3. I ended up warping one of the bolt heads that's gonna be a fun time with vice grips and a metal pipe. I'll work on it this winter when the grass isn't growing. Mowing with a Honda 217 isn't as fun.

Tractor data said the trans is a Sundstrand BDU-21. Is that a tuff torq/Kawasaki product? From what I read about Sundstrand BDU-21's it's a well made unit. The Jd 240 and 260 have tuff torq and the next model with a Sundstrand BDU-21 is the Jd 265
All 3 that sucks. I have one of them Work Sharp knife and tool sharpeners. It is basically a small belt grinder. Was able to sharpen the blade on my push mower without removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ya but I want to put the tri cycle mulching kit on at some point with gators. I didn't spend much time trying. With a few days of penetrating oil and heat I'll work them loose.
 
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