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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I would make a post about my adventure with this 2630 tractor. I got it for a really good price knowing it needed work. I guess I didn't realize the extent of the work though. I am no mechanic at all, I did work for CAT for a while. I grew up driving similar tractors, probably since around 5. This is the first one I actually purchased myself.

Tractor didn't even start when delivered, they rolled it off a rollback I think because the gravel was pushed away. Eventually, I discovered a variety of electrical issues, basically rewiring the entire machine.

Shifter had serious slop. Discovered the parking assist kit add-on, this tractor had the kit added but still had the old snap rings. Whatever, ordered the right kit of snap rings, problem solved. Could have been worse, seeing how the aluminum shifter cover is busted in a few places.

Finally got it running, changed all fluids. Hydraulic inlet screen wasn't really as bad as I expected, but wasn't great either. It was probably 40-50% clogged.

Eventually I got around to using it only to discover how destroyed the clutch was. Tractor wouldn't pull up a hill in low gear, engine running fine. So I pulled it in the garage and split it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Pilot bearing was destroyed, clutch disk had seen better days, entire inside of housing looked like an oil bomb went off.

Discovered the vibration problem, no balancer shafts??!? Previous owner removed them? My guess is they got robbed for another machine. That will be another repair for another day...

New injectors, fuel transfer pump, replaced a few fuel lines... Checked static timing on fuel pump and freaked out because I didn't see the governor weight basket timing mark. Went through the whole process of removing the pump only to eventually find out Stanadyne updated the weight basket design, the new design did not have a timing tick mark.

Currently working on the rockshaft rebuild. I discovered oil spraying out the filler cap while running. My hope is fixing this will fix a number of hydraulic problems, but if not I am prepared to hook gauges up to find the issues. I also discovered a gash knocked out of the cylinder bore of the lift cylinder... I hope this won't cause issues, I'm basically out of money at the moment so purchasing a valve housing is out of the question for now.
 

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Small little update, with the help of flywheight and Tx Jim - the two valve plugs, mine had a back-up ring in addition to the o-ring on the outer sealing surface. The rebuild kit as well as the technical manual do not show that back-up ring, only o-ring. TX Jim pointed out that some point in manufacturing, they switched to the single o-ring design I believe as well as a different valve cap. In my case, I am going to have to pull the caps back out to put the back-up ring back in - not sure yet how I am going to do that, they fit much tighter now that it has a new o-ring in...

Thread here on the issue: https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/agricultural-tractors/65586-2640-hydraulics-4.html

These are the kinds of things that I guess you cannot foresee happening unless you have experience which I do not have. There is certainly nothing in the literature about the back-up ring, so I assumed they replaced the backup ring + o-ring design with a single o-ring.

Also found a picture of the old clutch "finger" as I call it vs the new one. You can see how much wear it has.
 

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one question. In the opening of this thread you state "I am no Mechanic". If you aren't I don't know what you would call yourself. You may not be a professional mechanic but you are a mechanic. Good luck it nice to follow this
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate that.

I used to work for CAT, then decided I didn't want to turn wrenches every day all day. So I went back to school, got my mechanical engineering degree, and just got my professional license about 2 weeks ago. I like tinkering but I'm not cut out for it.

Another thanks to TX Jim. Small issue, my cutter would randomly drive up (3pt hitch). Turns out, all it was, worn bevil washers at the lift control lever. Cut a spring to replace them, all should be good now.

Waiting on the Piston o-ring and Teflon seal then it all goes back together. Since there seems to be interest, I'll keep posting pictures and updates. I made some videos too, if anyone was curious. Mainly like to talk about the things that aren't in the technical manual...
one question. In the opening of this thread you state "I am no Mechanic". If you aren't I don't know what you would call yourself. You may not be a professional mechanic but you are a mechanic. Good luck it nice to follow this
 

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one question. In the opening of this thread you state "I am no Mechanic". If you aren't I don't know what you would call yourself. You may not be a professional mechanic but you are a mechanic. Good luck it nice to follow this
i thought the same thing:good2:

I'll second that, you do a god job of turning wrenches!!
i 2nd that:bigthumb:

Mike1208
You're very welcome. I'm glad my knowledge helped you. Congratulations on acquiring your professional engineering licence.
Jim
:thumbup1gif:

i like following along with ur pics also. always good to learn something i think.so pic away-:lol::laugh:
 

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No updates yet...

Few more pictures though, looks like something catastrophic happened at some point. It appears someone welded one of the pins on the load control arm. Upon investigation, I suspect something happened (likely overloading the machine) where this pin and/or something else broke off and fell in the final drive housing. I can see where something pressed against the bolts holding the differential together, that will be difficult to get apart now if I ever need in that...
 

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Seals came in today. I think it was TX Jim, maybe Buckannear, but the top is to heat a bowl of water and soak the new Teflon ring for about 5 minutes to make it easier to get on the Piston. Great tips, that worked. Next tip was to use a worm drive clamp and some sort of protector to squeeze the ring back to it's original shape. That worked too, but getting the Piston in with the new seals was a challenge. As terrifying as it may sound, to get mine in the last bit I tapped it with a hammer. I was very careful, it would be easy to score that Teflon ring.

All in and housing back on! This is really difficult to do as one person without a lift. The housing is very heavy, but thank goodness there is plenty of room to work (open station). I'm too tired to finish it tonight, took tomorrow off so should be back up and running then.
 

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Ok, so rockshaft back on and works as intended finally. Hydraulics overall seem improved, but I suspect the internal PTO brake lines are leaking. Anyone chime in, tell me if this sounds crazy, but I've noticed if I have my cutter attached, 3pt hitch all the way up and traveling, if I turn sharp sometimes it feels as if that PTO band brake "slips" and the PTO shaft wants to engage for a split second. Could this be due to the failed internal hydraulic lines (cracks, etc) which bleed off pressure when the pressure and demand are highest (turning, cluch, 3pt engaged)?

I have a few gauges but no fittings yet. First step will be to determine the standby pressure as well as clutch and PTO. It has hydraulic independent PTO, 540 only, no Hi-Lo, no reverser.
 

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For clarification, the hydraulics "chatter" especially upon first starting up. I am fairly sure the solution is to split it and fix the internal lines, but before I go to that trouble I'd like to be sure that is the issue. I see the manual says it could also be the stroke control valve, but I don't have the fittings to test the standby pressure yet. Is there a way to check that valve without a gauge?
 

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Ok, so rockshaft back on and works as intended finally. Hydraulics overall seem improved, but I suspect the internal PTO brake lines are leaking. Anyone chime in, tell me if this sounds crazy, but I've noticed if I have my cutter attached, 3pt hitch all the way up and traveling, if I turn sharp sometimes it feels as if that PTO band brake "slips" and the PTO shaft wants to engage for a split second. Could this be due to the failed internal hydraulic lines (cracks, etc) which bleed off pressure when the pressure and demand are highest (turning, cluch, 3pt engaged)?

I have a few gauges but no fittings yet. First step will be to determine the standby pressure as well as clutch and PTO. It has hydraulic independent PTO, 540 only, no Hi-Lo, no reverser.
On the transmission shifter cover, that holds the two shifters, there are two test ports. They a look like hex head bolts. They are to the left of the gear shift lever. Forward one is PTO brake. Rearward one is PTO clutch.

A simple test would be to remove the test port and try blowing compressed air into the port. Tractor NOT RUNNING & BE CAREFUL oil does not blow back at you. Have the PTO lever in position for which ever port you test. If You can't get any resistance to compressed air, you have a leak, be it bad line, O-Ring seal on the line, or PTO brake piston's seal ring.

Did you replace the O-rings for the lines when you had the shifter cover off for your split?
 
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Discussion Starter #15
On the transmission shifter cover, that holds the two shifters, there are two test ports. They a look like hex head bolts. They are to the left of the gear shift lever. Forward one is PTO brake. Rearward one is PTO clutch.

A simple test would be to remove the test port and try blowing compressed air into the port. Tractor NOT RUNNING & BE CAREFUL oil does not blow back at you. Have the PTO lever in position for which ever port you test. If You can't get any resistance to compressed air, you have a leak, be it bad line, O-Ring seal on the line, or PTO brake piston's seal ring.

Did you replace the O-rings for the lines when you had the shifter cover off for your split?
Thanks! This is good stuff, I'll try that today.

I actually split it to replace the clutch a few weeks ago, I didn't mess with anything hydraulic related at that time. I did replace all the o-rings possible when I rebuilt the rockshaft including the o-ring in the transmission housing.

Let me try your recommendation, I'll post back in a bit.
 

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If you split for the traction clutch you would not have had the trans shifter cover off, Oops :hide: You will, if you have to split for the PTO clutch, brake, or lines. Split between transmission case and clutch housing

A harder, messier split than one for the traction clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright gents. Pics incoming...

Air pressure test in the PTO lines was inconclusive. So I split it. I already kinda knew the band brake was shot, so replacement of that at least is in order.

So far, strangly enough the pto hydraulic lines in the clutch housing don't appear to be damaged. I've noticed this thin circular part that fell out as well as a chunk of the hi/low/R shifter rail... Anyone have input on how vital it is to replace this shifter rail?

Band brake definitely looks thin. Still haven't seen anything yet that makes me think it solves the hydraulic issues. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
More pictures... 540 only PTO drive geat, shifter covers, etc. The detent in the PTO shifter cover is rolling around in the casing. Not sure how big of a problem that was...

I'd really like to pull the transmission pump and have it bench tested. Wonder if the dealership or machine shop could do that?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mike
Are you going to repair the broken tab on shift rail while you have tractor split?
Jim
Yes, for sure. Looking into it, it looks quite involved to replace that rail.

I think I found the broken piece in the bottom. I'm wondering if I could JB weld it back or if I should just replace it. What do you think? It was shifting fine before. I imagine this would have caused issues down the road.

Did you see the band brake? I think it needs replacing, TM calls for a replacement at 1/8 inch thick or less. It also just flops around back there, should it be not moving or does that sleeve on the shaft hold it steady?
 
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