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John Deere 650, 330, 317
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did this project a couple months ago, just as an experiment and for fun. I'm actually quite happy with the way it turned out. The pedal assembly itself is off of a cheap Poulan hydrostatic riding mower.

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The pedal is mounted on a round rotating shaft that goes through the frame and out the other side for stability. The movement was super jerky and fast so I used the original damper shock that came out of the hand control linkage on the other side of the frame to smooth out the motion.


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Underneath I welded a piece onto the shaft pointing downward… it’s all up inside the frame though so it doesn’t get in the way of the mower deck. (My diff lock linkage does that…) I also welded the original turnbuckle into the linkage so the neutral position could be adjusted. You can see the pedal shaft underneath in the last picture. You can also see the nice oil leak. There are also two springs that counteract each other so the pedal returns to neutral/stop. I’m pretty happy with the way it turned out for just playing around.


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If I did it again on another tractor, I might try using a heavy duty flexible cable (like maybe a brake cable from a golf cart) just to make it easier. Any suggestions or improvements are definitely welcome!

Luke
 

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Cool fix for 300 series. The hand hydro is why I won’t buy one for serious work.
 
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Whenever I mow with my 955 then go back to the 332, I think about this mod. I'd like to retain the brake pedal(s) though. Should be doable with only a slightly more work. Love how you did it though.

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John Deere 650, 330, 317
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whenever I mow with my 955 then go back to the 332, I think about this mod. I'd like to retain the brake pedal(s) though. Should be doable with only a slightly more work. Love how you did it though.

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I was going to move the brake to the other side- the shaft goes all the way through so it’d be easy- but the “brake” on a 330 is kind of a joke so I haven’t done it yet. It it had been a 332 with real brakes I would’ve kept it.
 

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My 420 had the hand control, and i actually liked it. When i went to the 1025R it was a big jump.
 

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1986 Deere 330, 2003 Deere 4210
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I was going to move the brake to the other side- the shaft goes all the way through so it’d be easy- but the “brake” on a 330 is kind of a joke so I haven’t done it yet. It it had been a 332 with real brakes I would’ve kept it.
I'm fairly certain the brakes on a 330 and 332 are the same. The brakes on my 330 are drum, and the 332 uses the same shoes and hardware.
 

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John Deere 650, 330, 317
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm fairly certain the brakes on a 330 and 332 are the same. The brakes on my 330 are drum, and the 332 uses the same shoes and hardware.
Yeah, they are drum. But when you pushed the brake pedal most of the stopping action was the return to neutral linkage doing its thing. The actual brakes never really got to do anything.
 

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My 420 had the hand control, and i actually liked it. When i went to the 1025R it was a big jump.
I cut my teeth on a 314. When we got an x500 it was amazing and the salesman said “you won’t wanna go back”.

Now. I suppose for just mowing it’s fine. But for me, when I’m working with the 1025 I got a hand on the scv joystick, one on the spinner knob, and a foot to operate my drive. I couldn’t imagine doing much work with hydraulics with a hand hydro. I’m gonna sell the blade and hitch I have because I would prefer a foot drive snow tractor.

To each their own. I guess a 300 series has no need for separate cruise control lever lol
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On the other hand...how does one accuate both the GO pedal, and the diff lock that both @LukeL and myself have?

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That’s when 2 feet get involved … not the most comfortable but whatever works. On the 4X5 series they put the diff lock on the left. I know why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got around to doing the brake on the left the other day. Works well. It would probably be a little more work on a dual brake tractor but this isn’t one so that was easy.


 
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