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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Used the tractor about a week ago, no problem. Now when I go to start it, it will not turn over. Dash lights come on bright and I think I can hear the Fuel solenoid clicking but it will not turn over. Battery shows fully charged even when I go to start it. I believe the tester showed 12.6. PTO is disengaged, it is in neutral and I even bypassed seat switch to ensure that was not the problem. I do show power on the positive terminal on the started. Help!!!!
 

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Is it a hydrostatic or power reverse trans? If power reverse, is it in neutral?

Edit: I read your post again and noticed you mentioning it's in neutral so I guess the simple possibility is not the issue.
 

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pic is of owners manual. Doesn't suggest much for help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is in Neutral when I try to start it. The owners manual was no help to me. I wonder about the solenoid, Has anyone had a bad one yet or can suggest what to look for to test it? The starter has a white wire coming from it that has not voltage to it. Could that be the exciter?
 

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Battery connections good? When my battery bit the dust the dash lights came on, blower motor in cab was blowing, and cab light would come on opening door but the second I hit the key the gauges would flop around and click. Might be worth having battery tested under load because I'd almost bet money another factory battery has given someone the finger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I cleaned the terminals and they are fairly new wires. The battery test fine, on and off load. At least I did not give you guys an easy one. I appreciate all the input, please keep it coming, I will try anything.:banghead:
 

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It stayed just under 10 If I remember right
If your battery is initially ~12.6 volts but drops to ~10 volts (and stays there while holding the key in the start position) it sounds like the starter is drawing current but just not turning over. It could be starter related.

Do you have a jump box or a battery charger/starter that you can try to absolutely eliminate the battery?
 

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It stayed just under 10 If I remember right
I am going to say your battery is toast, if it goes under 10 volts when trying to crank that's not a good sign. How old is it? Remember these diesels have high compression and need a strong battery to crank. Try jumping it and see if works.
 
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Classical bad battery. A good battery at rest should have 13.8 volts some may range in the 14 volt area. Any 12 volt battery that drops to 10 volts under load is bad. Specially if it does not recover to 13 volts after load test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys, yes I tried to jump start it and had a charger on it. Neither made a difference. It will not even try to turn over.
 

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With the key in the crank position, take your volt meter and check for voltage at the starter on the large cable and the small wire. You should have at least 10 volts. If you have battery voltage on both, even if it's super low then your problem is the battery itself, a cable or the starter. If you had a safety switch problem or something not allowing the tractor to crank you will not have power to the small wire. If you do have power to the small wire and voltage on both terminals at the starter is 10 volts or very close, tap gently on the starter with a hammer while holding the key in the crank position. If it starts, you have a starter problem. If it doesn't, pull your battery and have it load tested. A bad battery can turn into a load cell, basically a dead load that jumping or charging may not be able to overcome. Check both ends of both your large battery cables for good connections, corrosion, etc.

If you do not have power on the small wire, then there may be a safety switch or other component on the control side of the starter causing a problem.
 

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On my 4510, there was a two prong plug just above the started motor. apparently those go bad pretty often so i just cut it out and directly wired the wires together. ar e your symptoms like this?

 

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Good find! You may want to still have your battery load tested. Glad you was able to find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Auto part Technology Pipe Engine Vehicle
Auto part Technology Pipe Engine Vehicle
Thanks guys, 56Ford, I have power to the large starter wire but show nothing on the meter for the small white wire. So you think that is some safety component malfunctioning? I wired around the seat safety switch to now avail. I will have to explore to find the neutral sensor and the PTO sensor.
John mine is a little different. I have to separate wire plugs. One, the positive one is on top and it shows 10v to it. The second, a smaller white wire shows nothing on it. Again thank you all
 

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Something still doesn't sound right. The only time you should possibly read 10V on the starter is if it is energized and drawing full current - causing the battery to be drawn down. Even then, 10V is about the minimum the battery should get down to.

The only way to 100% eliminate the battery is to either have it load tested or swap it out for a known good battery. Even jumping does not eliminate the battery unless you completely remove the leads from the battery and jumper directly to the leads from a known good battery.

Another possibility is the battery leads themselves. But again, you have to be drawing significant current to cause a voltage drop down to 10V.

In any event, 10V to a starter that is not cranking is not correct. The only exception of course would be a bad starter that is drawing high current but not turning over.
 
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try bypassing this plug. remove the rubber cap from the post to find the 2 red wires going to a plug. these wires supply power to the whole machine.

Auto part Technology Pipe Engine Vehicle
 

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For what it's worth, when my battery decided to die a portable jump box did nothing. We connected a suv to it with fairly heavy cables and that tried to turn tractor over but wouldn't quiet do it even after letting suv idle for far longer than what should have been needed. Finally connected a van to it along with the suv and those two vehicles together got enough juice into tractor for it to fire off. I almost had a hard time believing it was the battery because my dash lights on tractor were bright, the light in cab was bright with door open, and the fan was blowing prior to deciding to try jumping it. I pulled battery off and took it to have tested. The guy at auto parts store did the same as you, tested the volts and doubted it to be bad. He put it on their machine and hit it with a load and then turned around to me and his exact words, "this battery is sh*t". Based on my experience, i would put on a known good battery and wouldn't rely on the prior attempt to jump start it.
 
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