Green Tractor Talk banner

John Deere 316 Rear PTO Shaft Too Short

4061 Views 14 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  bloodrunsgreen
Recently purchased an '88 Deere 316 with a mower and tiller. Mows great but the pulleys to run the tiller didnt spin when I purchased it and managed to use that to bargain what I thought was a reasonable price. Went to see what the problem may be and the shaft on the rear PTO assembly doesnt seem to reach far enough to engage the splines on the stub shaft of the PTO drive. The shaft is short by about a half inch. With the mounting plate unbolted I can get the shaft to engage but the holes on the mount plate then are way off and everything is out of line.

The rear drive pulleys have a bunch of shims (7 of them) to get the rear pulleys closer to the tractor.

Is there some type of shim set up inside the clutch that needs to be shimmed more to space that shaft in the clutch closer to the splined shaft on the drive?

Pic showing the gap between the shaft and splined stub.


The rear pulleys are shimmed up between the pulleys and rear piece of the mount bracket and line up good with the pulleys on the tiller when its mounted, is there away to get this assembly closer to the front of the tractor?


Any help is much appreciated guys! Thanks in advance!
See less See more
1 - 4 of 15 Posts
The long and the short is that tiller doesn’t fit your tractor.

You have a double pulley pto installed. For a 48 tiller you would remove that and replace it with a gearbox. That gearbox is the female half, and a correct tiller shaft would be male. This is a 2000rpm pto.

If the tiller shaft is female the tiller is either for a 840 or 540 rpm pto and cannot be easily converted.

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
The hydraulic tiller doesn’t have a driveshaft. It’s belt driven.

A 42 hydraulic does have a short driveshaft, but again there no way to mount it on a 316.
I understand you now, and I still don’t think you have the right pieces. There is nothing that inerrfears with putting the clutch in place.
Your onto something here. Nice investigation.

It wasn’t a c-clip but a missing cotter pin was making my loader control miserable. A linkage broke and during disassembly I saw the hole for a pin. After replacing it the thing works perfectly smooth. With high hours I figured the issue was wear, but no it’s the most common problem, someone else worked on it first.

People often ask how I troubleshoot or figure out the problem. Usually the answer is I took it apart and looked for broken/missing pieces. A good number of people asking questions here haven’t actually looked for their problem, so I didn’t go that route with your question. It’s refreshing to see someone who wants to learn how to fish.

I see you found some part diagrams, but the true source is

Create a free account for local part pricing and availability.
1 - 4 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.