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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having an issue with my John Deere 322 stalling out. It'll run great for 5 minutes, then it stalls out. If I throttle down and/or disengage the mower deck, it runs a little longer. Pulling out on the choke seems to help at times too.

I just changed the plugs and checked voltage to the coils, so I don't think it's a spark issue. But I haven't run the resistance tests yet. The old plugs were fouled pretty bad, which made me think it's running rich. When I performed the Carburetor Idle Mixture Screw Adjustment (TM 1591, 220-10-6), the engine never stalled out even when I ran the idle mixture screw all the way back in 1-1/2 turns. Could the jets in the carburetor be the issue?

The puzzling thing is how choking the engine seems to help. I'd think a rich engine would stall all the more quickly when the choke is engaged.
 

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It sounds lean to me, like your running the bowl dry.

It might be the float, needle, fuel pump, filter, pickup, or possibly vacuum in the tank.
 

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I'm with ryd on stalling issue. Check fuel pump output first per TM 1591, 220-10-8 (7 oz. in 30 seconds). If OK, check float/needle valve. If not OK, check piping back to and in tank

As far as idle mixture screw adjustment, my 322 is the same, all the way in or all the way out, no change! Looking at my screw after removing it, it has a definite wear ring on the bottom and 2 years ago, it was $110 for just the screw! I run about 1 turn out from bottomed and no idle issues.

Plugs appearing as running rich is pretty simple to explain...it's running rich due to using choke to keep it running! Once fouled, it'll take a while for them to burn themselves clean again, if ever! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dug in yesterday and rebuilt the carburetor. No apparent issues and the bowl was full of gas. The main problem now is finding the two "filters" that go on the throttle and choke shafts: the John Deere parts can only be had in the shaft kits. $26 for each tiny piece of foam is too much. Can anyone recommend an alternative?
 

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If Bob doesn’t know ChuckV might come along with a solution for the foam. He loved his 322.

Have you tried running it, or did you just see a full bowl and determine that wasn’t the issue? A sticky needle will randomly stop or reduce fuel flow.


Another thought just for giggles, try switching to the reserve fuel pickup and see if the issue continues.
 

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rc, Do yo still have the old/original filters? If so, try covering them with grease and try to work/rub it into the filter material. If you do not have them, you may (??) be able to make a new one using felt, usually available at craft shops like Hobby Lobby. You can make a cutter/hole punch from a piece of metal tubing. Chamfer the ID with a countersink or drill, and it will cut a hole the same size as the OD of the tubing. Chamfer the OD on a bench grinder and it will cut a hole the size of the hole in the tubing. Tubing works best if in a hand drill or drill press, rather than striking with hammer. Once OD & ID are cut, cut from hole to OD with a razor blade. This will allow the filter to be opened and spread around shaft. A few drops of oil on the felt and push into carb. Bob
 
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Try some small rubber o-rings (spec to resist oil/gas, especially gas) or small plastic flat washers drilled out to fit on the shaft and against the carb body and then o-rings to keep them against the body of the carb
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
rc, Do yo still have the old/original filters?
Old filters are long gone.

If you do not have them, you may (??) be able to make a new one using felt, usually available at craft shops like Hobby Lobby.
Were the original filters felt or foam? Your suggestion on making it is exactly where I was headed, but I want to make sure to use material than won't break down when oiled up. I was thinking the foam used for a primary air filter might work?
 

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I didn't pay any attention to mine when I rebuilt my carb... just oiled them liberally... so I don't know what the material is. I just looked at my 322 and the throttle linage is in the way to see anything, so no help there either! Air filter material may work, don't know for sure. After looking at mine, it's a small area to work in and whatever you use will be a pita to install. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bought some 1/2” craft upholstery foam from Joann Fabric. It’s a lifetime supply of filter material for $0.44.

76F1189E-0D1D-415F-9667-B25D643632BD.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still having issues with the 322. It starts and runs. Ran for about an hour really well before developing this latest issue. It just stalls out for no apparent reason under load. I say “under load” because I can sometimes keep it running by disengaging the mower deck. See the video here.

When I went to the garage, I smelled gas. Removing the deck, it seems I’ve got a leak from the fuel tank sensor (obsolete, so can’t be replaced). I wouldn’t think this would have anything to do with the stalling, though.
C8C75F88-3BD8-4794-8984-86E10A2EEEB4.jpeg
 

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Hmmm, "under load" could be electrical load. Check battery voltage before starting. Start engine, warm for 5 minutes, go full throttle and check battery voltage. Engage pto and check battery voltage. Run/mow for an hour or until it starts to sputter. Check voltage! Could be bad regulator or pto coil. Ohm coil, cold, should be 3-4 ohms, hot, same! If lower, like 2 ohms, coil is shorted and charging system can't keep up. Bob
 

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If it was a voltage issue it wouldn’t restart without a charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hmmm, "under load" could be electrical load. Check battery voltage before starting. Start engine, warm for 5 minutes, go full throttle and check battery voltage. Engage pto and check battery voltage. Run/mow for an hour or until it starts to sputter. Check voltage! Could be bad regulator or pto coil. Ohm coil, cold, should be 3-4 ohms, hot, same! If lower, like 2 ohms, coil is shorted and charging system can't keep up. Bob
I realized I never followed up on my previous issue (but it may be related to the current one). When I ran the fuel pump flow test, I only got about 1-oz of gas in 30 seconds. The problem with the carb not getting fuel turned out to be the fuel pickup line, which was almost completely rotted away after the first inch or so. The little metal filter was rolling around in the tank. I replaced it with a piece of Tygon tubing.

When I re-ran the fuel pump flow test, I got 6-oz. in 30 seconds. Still not the 7-oz. the tech manual says, but good enough and I needed to cut grass. Could bring short on fuel flow still be the issue?
 

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RC, Not quite to spec, but I think it'll work fine. I've gotta think 7 oz in 30 seconds would be slightly more than the carb would need at full throttle, and pulling maximum load with the governor holding carb wide open! Run it, see what happens and report back...either OK or additional issues! Bob
 
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AHH! Found it! Fuel consumption for a 322 is 1.5 gal. per hr. @ full load, so, divide that by 60=3.2 oz. per minute. Divide that by 60=.0533 oz. per second. Multiply that by 30=1.6 oz. per 30 seconds at full load. I'm thinking the numbers posted in the Tech Manual are more for the health of the pump and nothing to do with the engines needs! Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fixed a leak in the fuel tank tonight, but the tractor still stalls out after running about 10 minutes. Seems like it gets hot and just quits. I limped it back to the shop and noticed it backfired a few times. Not at all sure what to do next...I'm guessing electrical checks after I warm it up?
 

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The 322...or at least mine!... is VERY sensitive to engine temperature. If I start engine, go 1/2 throttle and engage deck, engine stalls. If I start engine, wait 4-5 minutes and engage deck at 3/8 throttle, no problem and blades are turning. At 70º, I can mow my entire lawn, about 2 hrs., without issues. At 80/85º, the engine starts to sputter around an hour and a half. At 90º, within an hour engine starts to sputter. I did find that removing side panels gets me another 1/2 hour mowing time!

First things to check are cooling holes on 3 sides of the center pedestal, then the screen on the operator's side of the radiator, and then the radiator. Blow out radiator from engine side, turn fan blade 1/8 turn and blow again. If it's never been done, flush radiator with a chemical radiator flush...available at auto parts stores. Invest in a Harbor Freight IR temp gun and check temperatures...engine, upper & lower hoses, and upper & lower radiator tanks. I'd go through the cooling system before I looked into electrical issues. Bob
 

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If you’re going to flush the radiator your much better off having a real radiator shop boil it.


As alluded to the cooling systems are marginal at best when operating properly. If I had to do a lot of hot work with one I would consider running without the thermostat. That works good on automotive applications.
 
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