Need dimensions: stroke, rod OD, cyl OD, retracted length, pin hole IDs, rod eye width, fitting locations, etc. Pics would help.

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Looking at partscatalog, these cylinders are rebuildable for about $65 per cylinder. Do you have physical damage, like a bent rod or ??, or simply leaking? Bob

 

I have had it rebuilt and it still leaks. Fearing it’s the rod. Rod costs $500+ So if there was an aftermarket option for a full cylinder assembly it would be ideal.

 

Only 2 things can go wrong with the rod: bent, and you'll see that quickly, or severely worn. Extend rod fully and visually inspect for worn areas or nicks, scratches, dents. These will destroy a new seal quickly! Another possibility is that whoever rebuilt cylinder installed wrong seal or installed seal backwards. That pretty much covers external leaks. Problems with internal are similar but cylinder needs to be dismantled to inspect.

If you truly do NOT want to use the cylinder as is, I'd remove and inspect. You may have to replace $10 worth of seals or the entire cylinder, but until you inspect, you don't know which. Bob

 

You won't find a direct replacement, you can find some "close" but you'll have to make modifications to make it/them work, then you're buying two cylinders because you want matched pairs.

 

Another thought! Is this an external leak or an internal leak? If internal, bucket will drift down in a certain amount of time. If it drifts 2 or 3 inches in 5 minutes, that's an issue! If it drifts 2 or 3 inches in a week, that's kinda normal.

If no external oil is visible near rod seal(s), check lines & fittings back to tractor for signs of external oil. If possible, disconnect lines from loader to tractor and swap so what was lift/lower is now curl/dump and bucket lever now controls raise/lower. If problem "moves" to now raise/lower lever, problem is in valve, or possibly piping from valve to loader. Bob