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I have a later mode John Deere A. I have been trying to get the clutch to operate correctly. When I tore it apart due to slipping I thought that it would be an easy fix when I found the threads on adjusting bolts were worn out allowing nuts to move. I replaced clutch adjusting bolts and no luck. I then replaced all fiber discs. To get clutch to pull you have to adjust it so tight it won't disengage and go get it to disengage it will not pull. I thought maybe the clutch drive disc going too far on crank. I replaced it with a new one. It don't go quiet as far on crank. No help with that either. Last night I replaced housing bearing thinking it could be binding up and dragging when clutch disengaged. I also replace clutch dogs toggles and pins while I was InThere last night. I put back together and you still have to run adjusting nuts way past second hole for key to get clutch to pull. Thank you all for any insight you may have.
 

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I have a later mode John Deere A. I have been trying to get the clutch to operate correctly. When I tore it apart due to slipping I thought that it would be an easy fix when I found the threads on adjusting bolts were worn out allowing nuts to move. I replaced clutch adjusting bolts and no luck. I then replaced all fiber discs. To get clutch to pull you have to adjust it so tight it won't disengage and go get it to disengage it will not pull. I thought maybe the clutch drive disc going too far on crank. I replaced it with a new one. It don't go quiet as far on crank. No help with that either. Last night I replaced housing bearing thinking it could be binding up and dragging when clutch disengaged. I also replace clutch dogs toggles and pins while I was InThere last night. I put back together and you still have to run adjusting nuts way past second hole for key to get clutch to pull. Thank you all for any insight you may have.
can't help ya out personally on ur jd A- have u tried watching a videos from Stieners on u-tube. they show very good videos on how to work on ur own equipment. if no video's of a A-try calling them-they may be able to help u -over a simple phone call.
 

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jengland922
Welcome to GTT
Is the hole in arm on operating sleeve(key 22) that fits over pin(key 20) round or elongated? My guess is it's elongated which lets sleeve turn a little on clutch pulley which puts toggles & dogs in a bind.
 

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and remember the clutch needs to snap in and snap out during engagement and diengagement. You'll know when that feels right.
 

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jengland922
Welcome to GTT
Is the hole in arm on operating sleeve(key 22) that fits over pin(key 20) round or elongated? My guess is it's elongated which lets sleeve turn a little on clutch pulley which puts toggles & dogs in a bind.
The hole in the operating sleeve is a little bit loose on that pin. It will maybe move 1/16 to 1/8 if that. i wondered about that but what I still don't understand is the adjusting bolts have to be adjusted up so tight to get the clutch to pull. The nut is adjusted all the way past the second cotter pin hole. I first wondered if it was wrong adjusting bolts I had put back in it but it was same as what came lit. The reason I started messing with it it was slipping and we thought it had maybe a broken bolt but to find out threads were wore out on bolts. Whoever had tractor before did not put cotter pins in and they loosened up.
 

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if everything looks good and not to wore out, the only long shots i can offer are the 3 springs (#5) i cant say that the issue, but if they are rusted away to not much left, or maybe the clutch brake is way out of adjustment now that you started changing a lot of parts. Clutch fork wore out? I have had 620 that the clutch handle bolt and hole were so wore out that the handle was actually bent haha
 

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I replaced the clutch springs also. I am going to try to piddle with it some more this week. Idk I am trying to get it done so I can get it out of garage. Tied up bay for too long lol.
 

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Worked some more on clutch. Tried to adjust same thing. Too tight to release if it will pull and too loose to pull if it will release. Could flywheel be moving on crank?
 

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check disc #6 (2) ,When I replaced my clutch I thought they had to be put correctly, one side has to face in a certain direction .You could have reversed the way they are supposed to be.
 

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JENGLAND, have you found any solution to the problem clutch? I have been looking at the "B" manual but have come up with no helpful hints. Unfortunately, the skilled JD mechanics that worked on these "A" tractors when they were still the main farm work horses, and got enough experience to know the difference between worn and worn out, have been retired also.

If I'm reading the manual correctly, the crankshaft endplay is set with the flywheel after the clutch is assembled and adjusted to engage properly. What I can't seem to find is whether the right hand (clutch side) main bearing is the thrust side. If so, could the crank face or bearing be worn so much that the crank end sticks out too far for the clutch assembly to be set up as required. Not sure I am making any sense with this statement though.

It's been too long since I put our well worn "B" back together and I can't visualize how all the clutch parts work with each other. The clutch works just fine, goes in and out with a good "pong", but no way does it take 70-90 pounds to engage/disengage it. Doesn't seem to slip but it has never had a good load to drag around all day either. The cotter pin holes in the new "T" bolts almost miss the slots in the nuts.

So, if you find an answer for yours, and I hope you have, please let us know. Future restorers will appreciate your effort.

tommyhawk
 

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Little tip is to cut some tin cans or aluminum cans and use on the splines to shim it. Bend the tab over so it doesn't slid on to far. It is tapered and 90 percent of the time that is the issue. I also found using a manual torque wrench you could see the dial move vs a click style was best for tightening. Need to have the clutch engaged with the lever forward to tighten correctly. Never had one I couldn't fix and you already checked and replaced all the items I would have already other then what I said.

Had a 250 hp G that we didn't have clutch issues with while pulling so it is possible.

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Not trying to high jack the thread. 900 cubic inch. I remember the stroke was 10 1/8 inches to where we had to shave the tranny gears to clear. I forgot the piston diameter but the sleaves where actually bored outside of the block. We couldn't use the two outside block bolts from that. Had to notch the left piston to clear the cam gear and notch both pistons to clear the rod throw. The cam was pretty thin too from the rods/crank going by it.we cut about 2500 lbs off as well. I blew the block out the front of the tractor. He could pull the sled at 25 MPH in 4th gear. Mine was closer to 150 hp. He was 1st and I was typically 3rd. An Oliver or Moline would be 2nd. My tractor never blew up and his did twice. His took 3.5 gall of high octane race fuel in the distance of the pull. Often my father would be at the end of the track with more fuel to get it back to the trailer. That was close to 20 years ago now. Lot of money for no return other then fun.

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