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Ag. kids have rebuilt a JD B for the State Ag. Mech. Contest. Couple of question. Our tractor has a serial number of 201000 and greater (late model). Has a single gas tank but also has the second lever above the throttle to run the shutters. Judges has said that this is an all fuel tractor and should have two gas tanks if the tractor has 2 levers at the steering wheel stand. All of the tractors we have looked at have a single fuel tank but have two levers and shutters. Are the judges correct?

Also have a problem with the governor. The tractor sat for 20 years or more, was stuck when we got her. Governor works great when hooked to a dynamometer. Off the dyno she when you apply throttle engine will rep up to a high RPM but when you give it a load will smooth out some. Have made multiple adjustments to the rod to the carb and governor. Do we have a governor problem or more adjustments needed?

Thanks.
 

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My model m's govenor problem (not returning to idle after high rpm/high load) turned out to actually be a main jet tuning problem. I forget if was too rich or too lean... I think it was too lean, but you've got a 50/50 chance if you try it on yours. If it sat long enough for the engine to stick, a governor rebuild might not be a bad idea. At the very least you should open it up and have a peak.

That era of B was available in a gasoline only version. The gas version also featured radiator shutters because as you know, the letter series tractors had no water pump or thermostat. In this case, I think the judges may be wrong. However, they might be right too, but not for the reasons they think. Without looking up serial numbers in the registry it is hard to know what yours was originally as essentially only pistons, carb, starting fuel tank, fuel valve, and hood with extra fuel hole separate the gas and all-fuel versions. It would not be hard to make an all-fuel into a gasoline burner.

I think that a tractor restoration project is a great way to get kids involved with history and to build team skills as well as mechanical skills. Keep up the good work!

Also: :ttiwwp:
 

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I think the judges are badly mistaken about the late B's and shutter levers. If they have some list of serial numbers that can separate the all fuel from the gas only models, they should have told you about that. As Evergreen noted, it is easy, and sometimes necessary, to interchange parts over a 60 + year time period on these models. I have never seen a 201,000 up B without two levers on the steering support, but I haven't seen them all! LOL We are talking about a regular row crop model aren't we?

As to the running problem, wish I could say exactly what the problem is. What manual are you using to set up the governor to carb. linkage? In most cases, the JD Service manual is much better in detail than the "IT" version. Next, is the manifold new and sealing correctly? Original manifolds can crack or rust through. A new one could be defective or leak. What condition is the throttle shaft and its bushings in the carburetor? Condition of the flat spring on the governor? Is the lever tight on the governor shaft? Is this shaft tight in its bore? Magneto or battery/coil ignition?

If you are satisfied there is no problem with the intake or head, the governor could be the culprit. Was it removed and disassembled? It is a critical and amazingly reliable component that must be set up correctly to function properly. But bad things tend to happen to tractors that sit idle for 20 years, even in a barn. Not an easy assembly to rebuild, along with the fan shaft gear mesh/tolerance and condition.

Too late for the contest, but we can't argue with the judges anyway, can we? Maybe we can help you find the runability problem as you supply more information. I'm sure the youngsters are ready to tear it half way apart again before school is out for the summer.

Welcome to Green Tractor Talk! Also check out www.johnnypopper.com

tommyhawk
 
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