[biodiesel]

My D160 is also a 2012 (purchased July 2012) and only has a couple more hours on it than yours. I just broke 150 Hrs while cleaning up leaves this fall before it got put away for the winter. I guess that's what happens when you only mow between May and October.

Wow, that's a very low hour machine. Our D100 has low hours, but it's been worked pretty hard, much harder than it was designed for. The first few years was used to develop property with it.

 

[biodiesel]

The brakes haven't worked in a few years. I disassembled the brake assembly to inspect all the parts. I took pictures as I removed parts in hopes to make it easier to put it back together.

 

[biodiesel]

On a side note, the key came off the axle. Is that normal?

 

[biodiesel]

I ordered new brake pads and a new disc. I replaced the pads, but I'm going to continue to use the factory disc. I'll save the replacement disc for future use.

 

[biodiesel]

The D100 is getting closer to being fully operational. The brake parts got cleaned, new pads installed, anti-seize applied to the dowel pins, and everything is back together. I need to check the brake adjustment, otherwise, the brakes are fully functional for the first time in a few years.

 

[biodiesel]

This may be a stupid question, but is there any reason why I shouldn't apply grease to the axle allowing the wheels/keys to slide easier?

 

[JimR]

On a side note, the key came off the axle. Is that normal?

Yeah. it's pretty normal. We've had a couple folk son here that were having problems were their machine wouldn't move. Turns out they had played with the wheels and the key falls out and they don't realize it. After someone mentions it they go back and look and find it on their garage floor.

 

[Gs JD]

This may be a stupid question, but is there any reason why I shouldn't apply grease to the axle allowing the wheels/keys to slide easier?

[/QUO

This may be a stupid question, but is there any reason why I shouldn't apply grease to the axle allowing the wheels/keys to slide easier?

Yes you should grease the axle (light amount) which will help facilitate future wheel removals.

 

[Gs JD]

The front axle pivot is a critical grease point that needs regular grease to stay tight, otherwise the front axle gets sloppy from accelerated wear. Jack your front end so the axle hangs freely and check it for front to back play. There will be some, but an excessive amount will affect steering.

 

[biodiesel]

The axle, washers, spacers, and inside the hubs are clean. I greased the axles before installing the wheels.

 

[biodiesel]

The dust caps had to be warmed up before they would go back on.

 

[biodiesel]

I decided to add a front bumper for a few different reasons. For one, the bumper offers frontend protection. It's a grab point making it easier to lift and maneuver the tractor. And lastly, it allows tie-down points for transport.

 

[biodiesel]

I should have done this years ago, but I added a mulching cover. This completes the mower deck.

 

[biodiesel]

I used some Goo-Gone and a scraper to clean up the ugly looking discharge shut.

 

[biodiesel]

It's hard to believe this is a 1-cylinder engine.

 

[biodiesel]

Here's a comparison between the old and the new. Gapped at 0.030 in.

 

[biodiesel]

Removed and replaced the original fuel filter for the first time. It lasted 139 hours and 9 years.

 

[jgayman]

Here's a comparison between the old and the new. Gapped at 0.030 in.

That old plug looks fairly decent. If you want to see a nasty Champion RC12YC out of the same B&S engine, check out mine.

 

[biodiesel]

Air filter is changed.

 

[jgayman]

Removed and replaced the original fuel filter for the first time. It lasted 139 hours and 9 years.

You must keep your fuel fairly clean. Fuel filters typically get dirty from engine hours (fuel passing through them) not age years. For 139 hours it still looks good.