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I have some working prototypes in the field and a few here I could ship, but it was never my intention to offer it for anything other than the 3 and 4 series that came with the OEM handle-I was/am not going to offer the complete handle or any such adapters, it is only the switch module and associated relay box to use the added 3rd switch, all plug-n-play for the 3 and 4 series.
 

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Yup...You will have to machine an adapter, and the 3-position switch is NLA as far as I know. The handle prices are reasonable-but it's still a custom project. Also remember you need relays on all the switches as they are only rated for very little current.
 

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Still working on this project? This has been a back burner project for me for a while. I'd like to do something like this on my 2032r to control the grapple.

Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<In The Works>>
Let us know how this works out. I would be very interested in this. I have the artillian 3 function I just added. I am just not happy with the switch set up.
 

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When I purchased my 4066R the joystick control that operates the grapple looked like the attached pic. However, I wanted a more ergonomic solution so I researched and found the JD does indeed make an ergonomic handle with the control switch I needed so I ordered one. The dealer advised against it because they were prone to failure; in fact they had two there at that time that had failed. Oh well, I ordered it anyway. Bad mistake...
 

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When I purchased my 4066R the joystick control that operates the grapple looked like the attached pic. However, I wanted a more ergonomic solution so I researched and found the JD does indeed make an ergonomic handle with the control switch I needed so I ordered one. The dealer advised against it because they were prone to failure; in fact they had two there at that time that had failed. Oh well, I ordered it anyway. Bad mistake...
What part was it that failed? If it was the switch, that can be replaced with a better Chinese version.
 

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Here is a pic of the JD handle. Installation was easy and straightforward. It worked perfect...Yeah, FOR 10 MINUTES!!. Then, the top push button switch stopped working. I removed it, checked it out (I'm a retired electrical engineer) and sure enough, the momentary switch no longer was making contact. Well damn. Put the original one back on and went back to work. Since it's an electrical item there was no return on the item so I decided that the original one works just fine after all. Lesson learned; listen to the dealer when they recommend not to buy something. More chinese junk sitting on the shelf in my shop...
 

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What part was it that failed? If it was the switch, that can be replaced with a better Chinese version.
See the next reply I posted. It's the JD one that failed; not the original one in the first pic I posted. Incidentally, I paid $179.00 for it. And yes, I can purchase a replacement switch and cable for about $70.00, but I have no expectations that it will last any longer than the first one. I'm fine with the original one; at least it works!
 

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The switches in those can only handle about 1/3 amp, so if your hooking this directly to a WR Long 3rd function they will fail quickly. You MUST use relays in this configuration.
 

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Isn't there a relay in the WR Long control valve? Sounds like a relay clicking when I activate the switch. I didn't measure the amperage, but 1/3 amp? Really? I've seen relay coils that draw more amperage than that. If that is all the switch is rated for I think JD should issue a warning along with the purchase of the joystick/switch. Something like: WARNING! This switch is subject to premature failure from normal use of your grapple" should do it. :lolol: I'll stick with the WR Long switch. MUCH better quality IMO.
 

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There is no relay on the solenoid valve, the clicking you hear is the spool moving.

Remember these switches are meant to interface with the OEM harness, not directly operate things.
 

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What does the switch from KBOGH actually do?
 

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What does the switch from KBOGH actually do?
From the website:

Adding functionality to the third button on the John Deere Ergonomic Joystick Handle that's now standard on most of the 3, 4, and 5 series tractors. This single momentary button could be used to operate a Electric Diverter (our UDVK kit or the system Artillian sells) or even a horn.
The third single position you see on the switch pod is dead...there is not even a switch soldered on the circuit board.
 

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And I now have a $179.00 Boat Anchor, oh no wait, it's not heavy enough for a boat anchor. :banghead: Maybe a fish bobber? I wonder if it floats? Sorry guys, all I can do is laugh about it.
 

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And I now have a $179.00 Boat Anchor, oh no wait, it's now heavy enough for a boat anchor. :banghead: Maybe a fish bobber? I wonder if it floats? Sorry guys, all I can do is laugh about it.
Well...You should have some recourse with the dealer. Your 4066r came with that handle-but it may have had a blank front if you didn't have the OEM 3rd SCV. The replacement front with the switch hole is is only about $5, yes $5...then they could have ordered just the switch for $70ish as you noted.

BUT, they should have known (and you quite frankly if your an EE, sorry) to confirm the capacity of the switches before using it in a non-OEM situation. I suspect this is why they told you it was prone to failure...I've not read of but one or two issue since they have been using them in the 3-4-5 series, and they used them in the 110TLB construction machine for 10 years before that.
 

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Yes, it did come with the blank handle. The dealer installed the 3rd function and they never offered that I could even purchase a replacement front with the hole in it. I'm thinking that they didn't even know it? Of course, the switch that they installed came with the kit.

And yes, you are correct. I should have further verified the capacity of the switch. It just never even occurred to me that the JD switch wouldn't perform the same function as the Long switch. In all of my entire career I never saw a momentary switch for a piece of heavy equipment that was rated at only 1/3 amp. Guess I just didn't see enough switches or I might have come across one. Still having trouble wrapping my head around that one though :dunno:
 

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See the next reply I posted. It's the JD one that failed; not the original one in the first pic I posted. Incidentally, I paid $179.00 for it. And yes, I can purchase a replacement switch and cable for about $70.00, but I have no expectations that it will last any longer than the first one. I'm fine with the original one; at least it works!
Holly crap $70? Deere sure is proud of that design. I was thinking maybe $5 and that would be over priced.
 
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