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Discussion Starter #1
So my 2720's tach/hour meter stopped working.
I tear it apart and it seems that the tach mechanism turns very hard. The gear on the back of the tach has a been stripped of the teeth in one spot.
I can attach a drill and run the tach over and it works altho it does not drop to zero all the time.
You can turn the gear on the back by hand but it is very hard.
I can attach the cable and put the drill on the engine side of the cable and when I try the drill it just spins the cable into a pretzel.
For some reason the tach is very hard to turn.

Now All I need is a new tach, I can take the instrument cluster apart and get it out.
BUT NO. JD only sells the instrument cluster as an assembly, and guess what the price of the cluster is, $775.:banghead:

I can afford the new cluster but getting raped does not sit well with me.
Gotta decide if I'm even gonna bother fixing it.
Only need the tach when running the mower on the 3 pt.
I wish I could find a used one, I'd go for that.


Rant over.
 

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I’d mount an after market digital tach if I was in your shoes.:kidw_truck_smiley:
 

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I can certainly sympathize. I've looked up many parts and swore the price has to be a mistake. If it's any consolation, you can save yourself around $50 by ordering the part from site sponsor http://www.greenfarmparts.com. Use discount code GTT.
 

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This is the second thread of recent weeks to name John Deere as price gougers, it is far from an isolation to just them. Go to your Ford, Chevy or Dodge dealer and buy their genuine parts. Or go to you Kabota or CaseIH dealer for their parts. It's just the American way, but you my friend can vote for change. :usa

Today as a matter of fact. :munch:
 

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I agree on the prices but also appreciate I can get parts easier and faster for Deere than anything else out there even for very old equipment. Expensive stinks, not available is worse.
 

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I agree on the prices but also appreciate I can get parts easier and faster for Deere than anything else out there even for very old equipment. Expensive stinks, not available is worse.
Ditto :bigthumb:
 

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This is the second thread of recent weeks to name John Deere as price gougers, it is far from an isolation to just them. Go to your Ford, Chevy or Dodge dealer and buy their genuine parts. Or go to you Kabota or CaseIH dealer for their parts. It's just the American way, but you my friend can vote for change. :usa

Today as a matter of fact. :munch:
Exactly. Im not sure why this keeps coming up. Maybe cabin fever is setting in early this year.
Its not news to anyone who has ever worked on anything over the last 15 years, let alone anyone who has paid for service on any kind of vehicle or equipment. My neighbor paid almost $500 for a new alternator on his F150. Its 8 years old. That same alternator can be purchased online, or locally, for just a hair over $100. He could have gotten the best quality money could buy for less than $200. That price only included an hour labor. Thats an insane cost.
We want the latest and greatest, and complain when new things look antiquated, so we get all in one clusters and modern designs, and we complain more when we have to replace those parts because they cost way more than the old ones did.
Id personally prefer to have all my instruments and indicator lights separate so they could easily be changed out, but we are way beyond that these days.

While I sympathize with the feeling that it is an expensive fix, there are ways around it if you search long enough.
Find out who made the panel. They are likely still making them. Can they sell you the parts you need?
In this day and age, if we look long enough, we all know someone who knows someone with a 3D printer. Those small plastic gears are a piece of cake to "print" on one of those.
If you can get in that far, you should be able to replace it for next to nothing if you can find someone who will draw it and replicate it for you.
I would go that route before spending $700 on a new cluster.
 

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Couldn't get my Mac to link them but a quick google for mechanical tachometer repair yielded many results.
Also conversion from mechanical to electric into the old gage face.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is the second thread of recent weeks to name John Deere as price gougers, it is far from an isolation to just them. Go to your Ford, Chevy or Dodge dealer and buy their genuine parts. Or go to you Kabota or CaseIH dealer for their parts. It's just the American way, but you my friend can vote for change. :usa

Today as a matter of fact. :munch:
I drive a 12 year old BMW, the parts are reasonably priced. I bought a latch for the rear tailgate about a year ago.
a little over $90. And it has an electric solenoid in it that pulls the hatch tight after closing.

Also I bought a headlight assembly this spring. $1200. But it was the complete plastic housing with the xenon lights and it was the assembly that turns with the steering wheel left to right. Much more complicated than this gage cluster.

No, I'll gladly buy parts for a BMW over a JD.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In this day and age, if we look long enough, we all know someone who knows someone with a 3D printer. Those small plastic gears are a piece of cake to "print" on one of those.
If you can get in that far, you should be able to replace it for next to nothing if you can find someone who will draw it and replicate it for you.
I would go that route before spending $700 on a new cluster.
Its not only the gear that needs replacement but the shaft for the needle/pointer does not turn easily which is the real problem here.
a new gear would just end up like the old gear in a short time.

I owned a Tool shop at one point. I have made gage clusters for older cars. They looked like stock when done.
Its alot of work.
If a mass produced part is more expensive than a one off custom made part what does that tell you about the pricing?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I’d mount an after market digital tach if I was in your shoes.:kidw_truck_smiley:
This is the best idea so far.
I'm going to mull it over for a night then decide what I'm going to do.

Looked at diesel tachs, easily under $100.

Not alot of work to put on in but the biggest draw back is where to put it?
My best idea is just putting it right in the middle of the existing gage cluster, its not like the original thing is any good anyways.
 

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I can afford the new cluster but getting raped does not sit well with me.
The only thing that makes it rape is the resistance part:laugh:
 

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I can certainly sympathize. I've looked up many parts and swore the price has to be a mistake. If it's any consolation, you can save yourself around $50 by ordering the part from site sponsor http://www.greenfarmparts.com. Use discount code GTT.
I agree with jgayman.
I've been ordering everything from GFP with the 7% GTT discount, no sales tax, and free shipping.:good2:
Some big stuff shipped free too like side bars for gator.
 

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I've been on the other side of the "high parts cost" debate. The company must tie up capital to stock parts for the long term. They must also incur ongoing expenses for warehousing the parts. Both of these costs increase with time. So parts for older equipment end up being dramatically more expensive than those for current products, especially those in production where the part can still be fabricated or purchased, eliminating the need for much inventory. There's also the problem of shelf life. Parts with rubber or plastic parts deteriorate with time. There's a lot of parts where the failure rate is not estimated correctly and there are too many stored away or too few. Both are expensive problems to solve. There's a lot of scrap in the parts business, and this is a major cost that gets factored into the price of the parts that are sold.

You'd think it would be worth it to take all the flak from customers if you could just have obscene profits from your parts operations. But you'll get all the flak and only make normal profits just because of the natural economics of this business.
 

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So my 2720's tach/hour meter stopped working.
I tear it apart and it seems that the tach mechanism turns very hard. The gear on the back of the tach has a been stripped of the teeth in one spot.
I can attach a drill and run the tach over and it works altho it does not drop to zero all the time.
You can turn the gear on the back by hand but it is very hard.
I can attach the cable and put the drill on the engine side of the cable and when I try the drill it just spins the cable into a pretzel.
For some reason the tach is very hard to turn.

Now All I need is a new tach, I can take the instrument cluster apart and get it out.
BUT NO. JD only sells the instrument cluster as an assembly, and guess what the price of the cluster is, $775.:banghead:

I can afford the new cluster but getting raped does not sit well with me.
Gotta decide if I'm even gonna bother fixing it.
Only need the tach when running the mower on the 3 pt.
I wish I could find a used one, I'd go for that.


Rant over.

I had a similar problem awhile back. The tach was getting hard to turn and the tach would flicker and not be steady. Sort of jumping and flicking around the actual RPM. The tach was getting harder to turn and the tach cable was bending and twisting and broke within 2 inches of the tach. But, it was still catching, but flicking. So, I did two things: 1) I got a new tach cable and 2) i greased/lubed the tach behind where the cable enters the tachometer. It works like a champ. Not sure if either of these things might help you????:gizmo:
 

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So my 2720's tach/hour meter stopped working.
..................
Only need the tach when running the mower on the 3 pt.
.........................


Rant over.
Don't quite understand what a tach offers when running the PTO. Wide open or near wide open throttle should be adequate for PTO mower speed.
What else could the tach offer for assistance?
 

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Don't quite understand what a tach offers when running the PTO. Wide open or near wide open throttle should be adequate for PTO mower speed.
What else could the tach offer for assistance?
I guess when you think about it you are right. The 2720 engine runs right around 2600 RPM wide open which is also the RPM needed for 540 (rear) and 2100 (mid) PTO operation.

I assume though that the mechanical hour meter also runs from the tach cable.
 
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