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Hello, I am working on an LT155 for a friend of ours. last year I replaced the battery as it kept going dead on her. This year same thing. So I got looking and found a wire burnt in half. It turns out that the burnt part was actually a diode in the wiring coming out of the stator. So, I called to order a new stator and wiring.
I got a call back letting me know that the 3 amp stator I ordered was no longer available and I would need to "upgrade" the tractor to a 15a charging system.

The parts came in with absolutely no instruction at all. I installed the stator, most of the wiring was pretty straight forward. I came to a "jumper" as they call it with a strange looking white connector on it, and a couple of yellows and the brown striped wire that came with the kit. Not knowing where it goes I called the dealership. I eventually found that it is a headlight/fuel cutoff. After finding the schematic I traced the wiring and found a relay containing the wires from the switch as well as another wire with a connector not connected to anything. So, I figured the brown striped replaces the yellows coming out of the relay, and the new found yellow then goes to the new "jumper".
So everything hooked up I reinstall the battery and without turning on the key, the lights come on. So I disconnected the lights and the tractor starts right up. Reconnected the light harness lights come on, but the wiring out of the newly added voltage regulator are getting hot. Shut down, disconnected battery, Wires did not melt, caught it pretty quick.
So, I guess I am at a point of confusion. Dealer has no "upgrade" diagram. I have no idea why the lights are on all the time now or why the wires heat up. The switch has an off, on and start.
Basically two wires out of the stator to the regulator, pigtails replacing the old yellow and green in the harness. New red wire from the center of the regulator to the old harness where the one with the diode went, connects to the red going back to the switch. Any ideas, suggestions or advice?
Thank you, much appreciated.

Larry
 

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Larry, Your dealer should have been able to access this info on Pathways.:unknown: Let me Know if you have trouble with this file.
View attachment lt155_15a.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you

Thank you for the instructions, the dealer said there was nothing out there to explain the installation and that I would need to bring it in to have the mechanics look at it. It was pretty frustrating.
Thank you for the help.
 

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I feel kits should come with instructions. Did you get her going?

Sent from Kev's EVO.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh no

Well, I just came back in from finishing it up. It does not have the fuel shutoff solenoid, so apparently the blue connects into the new harness and goes nowhere?
Anyway after going over absolutely everything I connected the positive cable to the battery, then attempted to connect the negative (ground) Lots of sparking and the wires began to heat up.
So now I am left scratching my head. Yes, I totally agree, this should have come with instructions from the beginning.

Thanks
 

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Were you able to look at the pdf file I posted? If not, PM me and give your email address. I'll send it that way.

Sent from Kev's EVO.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I got the Pdf, and printed it out to take with me. Followed everything completely and double checked it. Still, there seems to be a draw somewhere causing the negative to the battery to spark when trying to connect it to the battery. I found that if I disconnect the voltage regulator harness it is fine, but reconnecting it after making the negative connection is begins to heat up the wires into the regulator, or out of.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now I went out and checked all of the connections again. Tried hooking up the ground and smoked the fusible link coming from the regulator to the solenoid. This is really beginning to irritate me. Argh
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
New wire

Well, I had to order the wire from the dealership with the fusible link. $3.00 part, but I have no idea why it burned. It is connected to the red wire that comes out of the new voltage regulator that came in the kit.
I did find that it appears they have something jumpered together, looks like it is defeating the reverse cutout for the mower deck so they can back up and keep mowing. Could that be the cause?

Also, I just went and checked the new voltage regulator with a ohm meter. I have continuity between the AC on the left and the Batt in the middle. Is this normal? Or is this a bad regulator?

Thank you

I just did another check with the continuity on the regulator since I cannot start the tractor. I have no continuity between one of the AC outer prongs and the inner one. The other outer has continuity with the inner dc prong no matter if I change the test leads.
So I am not sure if this is normal or not.

Thank you.
 

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I'll look a regulator next time I get to the shop. I'll be on the road for the next few days, though. The regulator has a rectifier built in to it. Check regulator A to B with red on A and black on B. Then take the reading with red on B and black on A. You should show resistance one way and open loop the other. Then do the same on B and C. Off the top of my head, I would expect a reading with black on B and red on either A or C. I'll try to confirm ASAP. It may be a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Frustrated

Well, the new fusible link wire came in. I made the repair and reconnected everything. Thinking of trying something different this time I did something different. I disconnected the voltage regulator and the tractor started and ran great. I then plugged in the regulator and SMOKED the fusible link again!
I followed the upgrade wiring diagram and rechecked everything. The only thing I can see is that someone jumpered two sets of 2 white wires in the tower behind the battery. I believe this is so the mower deck cannot operate in reverse.
I am at a total loss here. I have about $140.00 and a ton of time into this. It is not fixed and the owner needs it back. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be??? One more thing. It appears as though the attempt to connect the regulator while the tractor was running drained the battery. Like within a second there is now not enough juice to start the tractor.
Thank you !!!
 

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I have just finished installing the same 15 amp kit on my LT155. I do not have the fuel shut off on my mower and thought it was unnecessary to finish the install with the brown/white jumper wire to the shunt relay. After re-reading the instructions from the pdf from the link in the earlier post I determined that it was necessary to finish all of the connections with the new jumper, specifically instructions 10-13 in Install Jumper Leads. After that every thing went together with out the sparking. I have not checked to see if it is charging because it runs and it is late.

Good Luck, I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I went through the whole thing again. I am wondering if there is a bad relay or something causing this. Everything appears correct but I was and still am unsure about the headlight/fuel cutoff wiring. The way I read the instructions I ended up leaving it disconnected (for future fuel cutoff) although I did fine a yellow wire in the harness not connected to anything. I did try connecting this wire at one point hoping it would resolve the problem but the same thing happened. I returned the tractor to the owner so they can use it. The charging system disconnected to keep it from burning up the wiring. I am getting frustrated with the thing. It is a mystery.

Larry
 

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Larry, Sorry to hear you're still having trouble. I re-read the last few posts. Are you using the same regulator that you started with? It sure sounds like your problem is there. Electrical is so hard to diagnose by remote.:empathy:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Kevin. I actually took the regulator back and had them give me a new one. Still have the same problem. It starts and runs great (no headlights or charging) when I pull the wire connector from the voltage regulator. As soon as I hook it up it instantly cooks the fusible wire to the solenoid.
The mower deck safety (for reversing) has been defeated on this but I disconnected it and same problem. Ok, one thing I did notice is the wires from the stator. They have the white and brown pigtailed and talk of a wht/brown - wht/wht. Mine are white and brown, both of them. So I wired with the two whites going into the voltage regulator, and the two brown pigtails going into the wiring harness.
 

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OK. I went back through the whole thread. I do not see where or if we tested the stator output voltage. With the engine running, you should see 30-35 volts of AC power coming out of the stator. With the engine and ignition off, you can test each stator lead to ground. You should get an open loop or infinite reading on your meter.
 

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Need help pls

Hi Kevin. I actually took the regulator back and had them give me a new one. Still have the same problem. It starts and runs great (no headlights or charging) when I pull the wire connector from the voltage regulator. As soon as I hook it up it instantly cooks the fusible wire to the solenoid.
The mower deck safety (for reversing) has been defeated on this but I disconnected it and same problem. Ok, one thing I did notice is the wires from the stator. They have the white and brown pigtailed and talk of a wht/brown - wht/wht. Mine are white and brown, both of them. So I wired with the two whites going into the voltage regulator, and the two brown pigtails going into the wiring harness.
Ordered new stator for a ltr155 and went fitting it earlier, got everything in place but have a problem with the two wires from the stator to rectifier, they are both white with brown pigtails, which side of regulator do they go into? I know the red is in the middle A+. And which one gose where into my engine harness?
Should I be left with two brown into the shunt relay? Don't want to burn out anything put lots of time into this. Thanks for any help.
 

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Ordered new stator for a ltr155 and went fitting it earlier, got everything in place but have a problem with the two wires from the stator to rectifier, they are both white with brown pigtails, which side of regulator do they go into? I know the red is in the middle A+. And which one gose where into my engine harness?
Should I be left with two brown into the shunt relay? Don't want to burn out anything put lots of time into this. Thanks for any help.
The LT155 had two different amperage systems. One version is a 3 amp system, which will have a 3 position key switch. The other was a 15 amp system with a 4 position key switch. Let us know which system you have and I will make a small pdf file of that particular system so you can get this figured out.
 
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