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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with my 335. When I get about 1/2 of hay in the chamber rolling it wants to quit turning the belts. I only have one set of remotes coming off of the baler. It has new cylinders on each side of the tailgate. I have to pull a rope to switch between the hydraulic tie arm and to open the rear gate. If I hold on the leaver to apply pressure to the gate it will keep rolling. I know its nothing wrong with tractor it has to be the hydraulics on the baler. Something is leaking off causing pressure of the belts to slack off. Its not air in the system. I have the tension valve removed and the releif valves look ok which doesn't mean they are good. I don't think john deere makes this tension valve anymore. Could I replace tension valve with another one off of another John deere baler. Just the relief valves are 250 dollars a piece. I would be better off replacing the whole block if I could come up with something. Any ideas?
 

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Pita

Does your baler have a locking device on the rear gate or is hydraulic pressure the only thing holding it closed?

Our ancient Vermeer has a locking device that engages when the gate is fully down. I have a couple of issues with it- 1) I don't always get the gate fully closed and it's possible for the locking device to be pulled up without the gate being fully closed and 2) I will sometimes brush the hydraulic remote lever with my knee just enough to unlock the gate. Either one will give the problem you describe and prompt me to cuss myself out.

One thing that helps with issue 1 is if I slap some used oil on the guide plates where the gate closes and or goose the tractor engine while it's closing to the close speed is faster. My brother has no issues at all with it so it's clearly operator error. It's heck when the only person I can cuss out is me.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does your baler have a locking device on the rear gate or is hydraulic pressure the only thing holding it closed?

Our ancient Vermeer has a locking device that engages when the gate is fully down. I have a couple of issues with it- 1) I don't always get the gate fully closed and it's possible for the locking device to be pulled up without the gate being fully closed and 2) I will sometimes brush the hydraulic remote lever with my knee just enough to unlock the gate. Either one will give the problem you describe and prompt me to cuss myself out.

One thing that helps with issue 1 is if I slap some used oil on the guide plates where the gate closes and or goose the tractor engine while it's closing to the close speed is faster. My brother has no issues at all with it so it's clearly operator error. It's heck when the only person I can cuss out is me.

Treefarmer
Hydraulic psi is what is holding the rear gate shut
 

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Selector valve

Hydraulic psi is what is holding the rear gate shut
In that case, I would suspect the valve that allows you to switch between the tie arm and the rear gate. As a wild guess, the valve is leaking down on the gate side.

Would it be possible to switch the hoses on the valve and see if that stops the issue? the tie arm would take very little pressure.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In that case, I would suspect the valve that allows you to switch between the tie arm and the rear gate. As a wild guess, the valve is leaking down on the gate side.

Would it be possible to switch the hoses on the valve and see if that stops the issue? the tie arm would take very little pressure.

Treefarmer
swi
I'm going to add another remote to my tractor. That way I can have two sets of wet lines in the rear to run the baler. How can I elimate the switching valve. How would I go about hooking it up. I would need two lines coming from the tension valve and a set of lines coming straight from the tie arm? Let me know thanks
 

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Sounds reasonable

swi
I'm going to add another remote to my tractor. That way I can have two sets of wet lines in the rear to run the baler. How can I elimate the switching valve. How would I go about hooking it up. I would need two lines coming from the tension valve and a set of lines coming straight from the tie arm? Let me know thanks
I know nothing specific about that baler so hopefully someone else here has better knowledge, but your approach seems reasonable to me. Another option would be to add a diverter valve to your existing line but it's always nice to have multiple rear remotes.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Would anyone have any idea where I might find the whole tension valve assembly or what other john deeres used the same control valve.
 
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