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With my 5055E it has that decimal speedometer, I likey :)

so I find myself going about 5.8-6.0 MPH and get a nice cut with a Brown 417 7 ft cutter

I was just wondering what the rest of the folks do around here for speed and still maintain a nice cut

now I sharpen my blades at least once a yr and cut to about 2-3 inches

I know there are variables, wet grass, deck height etc.

This is just a chat point
 

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Good chat point! Right now I am just beginning to reclaim the 12 acres of pasture we have (just moved in during the month of May ). I found just about every large rock and hill in the last few weeks cutting 4-6 foot high brush! Actually lost about 18 inches off the back wall of my brand new brush hog tonight backing into a mighty large rock. Had to cut out a big section of sheet metal just to keep on cutting.

Can't wait to see the responses.
 

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I have rock outcroppings and prickly pear that I want to avoid. (For those not from this area, hit a prickly pear cactus and you will have 100 where you had 1.) I do most of my mowing in L4, which is about 3.6mph. And when I get into the areas that I know I saw something last time mowing, I'll even drop it down to L1. I gain nothing by going faster, if I damage my equipment or mess up my pastures doing so. I also enjoy operating the tractor, so am not in a rush. I know it will still be there tomorrow, if I do not finish the cutting today.

Had a neighbor a few years ago that got a new tractor. Had cab, A/C, all the bells and whistles, and he only had 5 acres! He wanted to use his tractor, so offered to mow my pastures. I let him....ONCE. He looked like he was seeing how fast he could go doing so. Started one evening, and finished under the lights of his machine. He also hit every dadgum thing that I would have been careful to miss.

If you are on flat ground, and have perfectly clean topography, you can go fast. But throw in a few variables to the mix, such as dense areas of wet grasses, rocks, prickly pear, bullnettle, and assorted other things that you won't see until you are on top of them, and I'll keep mine slow. Even at that, I buy shear bolts in bulk, because there always seems to be a rock somewhere, that was not there last time.
 

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cut height

If you have 2' of grass/weeds and cut it to 2-3 inches, that's a lot of material under the deck. If it's really pasture, I would suggest a better height might be 6-10 inches depending on your animals and the plants in the pasture. I just finished about 40 acres and my goal was to cut about 1/4 off the top of the good grass. This meant I cut about 3/4 of the tall weeds. That will give the grass an opportunity to compete for light and somewhat hinder the weed regrowth.

You can also run a lot faster with a 6-10 inch cut than a close shave and you will miss some of those rocks and other debris. If you aren't raising animals and just want to pretty picture, the closer cut may be more appropriate but it will still leave a pretty thick mat when you cut.

Treefarmer
 
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Since I have a hydrostat trans and no speedometer I don't really know what speed I mow at.

It kind of varies with the type of material from light/thin to thick/heavy. I've kinda got used to the right "load" on the engine and I just vary the speed as the material changes to keep a good cut.

Then as Farmgirl said, there is the obstacles and rough spots.

Kind of nice having a variable go pedal.


When I was a kid, it was L2 because that was what I was told to use.....
 

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I set my speed based on how my tractor feels and sounds, and the quality of the cut that it's leaving behind. With my 4720 in 4' overgrowth (I let it go once, shame on me), it was 1MPH or less. With 8"-12", I could do 3-3.5MPH. With my 5075 I can do 4-5MPH, terrain permitting, and my flail still leaves a nice cut. I might be able to go even faster, but my pastures are exactly the salt flats.... I think it's important to remember to choose a gear that allows the RPM's to stay at or slightly above 540 PTO RPM such that the blades/hammers stay moving at the right speed.

-J.
 
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Most farming equipment are designed to run at 5.5-7 mph. We ran most all of our tillage equipment and shredders in 1H which got about 6 mph. When cultivating the crops we ran in 2H.

I think that the big shredders can do a much better job at higher speeds that the single spindle models. I never had an uncut right wheel track until I got the little 6' one..

Oh, and our farmland didn't have any bumps and no rocks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Since I have a hydrostat trans and no speedometer I don't really know what speed I mow at.

It kind of varies with the type of material from light/thin to thick/heavy. I've kinda got used to the right "load" on the engine and I just vary the speed as the material changes to keep a good cut.

Then as Farmgirl said, there is the obstacles and rough spots.

Kind of nice having a variable go pedal.


When I was a kid, it was L2 because that was what I was told to use.....
No speedometer on mine either. But there is a chart that shows what each gear gives for speed at 2300rpm on the tach. That's what I was basing my speed on.
 
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