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Just finished this last Saturday. Very smooth install just as everyone else has stated here. Excellent system and looking forward to using it this winter. Posting up some pictures of the finished product. Let me know if you see anything I missed or could use some adjusting.
Thanks,
JD

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In the above picture you can see the new "experimental" locking keys in place of the pins for securing the blade mounting bracket. Very slick and work nice.

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Just need some snow to put it to the test. I think I am going to like it. The forks have already come in handy moving brush, pallets. Million and one other uses that come to mind...

Thanks Chris for the great product/s. My Dad had no idea it was not an OEM JD setup.

JD
 

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The plow on the loader is a really nice setup. Love mine.

I opted to skip the diverter for now but I'd be interested in hearing your experience with it for the plow once you get a chance to put it into action. (Hopefully, that's still a few months off... :laugh: )
 

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My Dad had no idea it was not an OEM JD setup.

JD
Thanks for making my day!

Your install of the plow parts looks perfect. The lower hoses of your diverter look like they are taking a different path than the originals. It's ok as long as nothing is getting kinked or pinched but it's best to get them running along the same path as the other loader hoses. Maybe I'm mistaken by the way the photo looks.
 

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Nicely done!

I am installing the same set-up for snow plowing in upstate New York. I also went a bit crazy and ordered a Tektite deluxe cab to help my creaking joints.

What is your plan for rear weight? Will you be installing chains?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for making my day!

Your install of the plow parts looks perfect. The lower hoses of your diverter look like they are taking a different path than the originals. It's ok as long as nothing is getting kinked or pinched but it's best to get them running along the same path as the other loader hoses. Maybe I'm mistaken by the way the photo looks.
Appreciate the feedback. This engineering and manufacture of this system is top notch. You are correct, I have the diverter supply lines routed slightly differently from factory. Will take a look and change that up. Thanks.
JD
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nicely done!

I am installing the same set-up for snow plowing in upstate New York. I also went a bit crazy and ordered a Tektite deluxe cab to help my creaking joints.

What is your plan for rear weight? Will you be installing chains?
Would love to have a cab but not in the budget for this season. Hoping that now I am going back to a plow rather than a blower I can get away without snow protection. The blower required a cab (I had a Bercomac soft cab on my X475) as snow would always hit me in the face. I have a circular section of drive in front so it did not matter which direction the wind was coming out of at some point I would always get a face full. :)

Funny you should mention the weight. In another thread I posted up that I was going to try using my 260 back hoe as ballast and most of the responses say its too much weight at 600lbs and you also cannot add or subtract easily. Chris stated that somewhere around 4-500lbs on the rear and 1-200 lbs on the front is about right. At first I was going to pick up a ballast box to make adding (and adjusting rear weight) simple. I may still go that route but I really don't want to add something else I have to store - even if its in the yard.

I may give the 260 a shot and see how it goes. The issue I have is how to best add weight to front. Anyone have ideas on how to best accomplish this? If I have to I would simply add more than 200lbs in order to offset the weight of the hoe. My driveway is not that huge and expect to be able to clear it in less than 30 minutes total time from start to finish. I could accomplish this with my X475 and blower in about 20min. I also want to avoid chains. That was my least favorite part of putting the blower on my x series.

JD
 

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Funny you should mention the weight. In another thread I posted up that I was going to try using my 260 back hoe as ballast and most of the responses say its too much weight at 600lbs and you also cannot add or subtract easily. Chris stated that somewhere around 4-500lbs on the rear and 1-200 lbs on the front is about right. At first I was going to pick up a ballast box to make adding (and adjusting rear weight) simple. I may still go that route but I really don't want to add something else I have to store - even if its in the yard.
I think the important thing to take away from what Chris was talking about is that when you are plowing, you aren't adding weight for the purposes of ballast per se. You aren't really lifting much, if any, weight with your loader when plowing. Most of the work is pushing as opposed to lifting. You aren't loading weight on the front axle the same way when pushing as you do when lifting. He was suggesting adding weight for the purpose of gaining traction. Much like people that throw sand bags into the bed of their pickup for the winter.

I don't add that much weight to the back end of mine. My are tires are loaded and I hang my 5' back blade on the iMatch. The iMatch itself weighs about 50 lbs and the back blade adds another 200 lbs. On the plus side, I have a garage door opener remote on the tractor key chain so I can open the garage doors, back right into the garage and drag snow away from the doors using the back blade. I don't even need a shovel at all.

I could probably do with just a little more weight on the back end but I haven't had any real issues with it as it is.

The issue I have is how to best add weight to front. Anyone have ideas on how to best accomplish this? If I have to I would simply add more than 200lbs in order to offset the weight of the hoe.
I've been toying with an idea on this but haven't gotten around to fabricating anything yet. When I got my plow originally I used it with the standard QuickAttach hitch (sans loader). Since I moved to the plow on to the loader I no longer need the original QuickAttach mounting bracket.

So my thinking is to remove that mounting bracket and fabricate a bracket to put in it's place so that I can hang three 42lb suitcase weights in the same spot. They'd be out of the way of the loader and centered on the machine. They'd hang down just a bit below the front axle height but I can live with that. The only thing is I'd have to remove them any time I want to take the loader off because they'd be in the way of the loader parking stand. I think I can live with that since I rarely take my loader off in the winter anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How about attaching weights directly to the fork adapter? Agree that having them on the frame would be better than adding unnecessary weight to the loader arms but it appears there is no readily available system for doing so. I am sure Chris could engineer something that would work really slick for this. He should probably reschedule the wedding for sometime after this task is completed. ;)

JD
 

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How about attaching weights directly to the fork adapter? Agree that having them on the frame would be better than adding unnecessary weight to the loader arms but it appears there is no readily available system for doing so. I am sure Chris could engineer something that would work really slick for this. He should probably reschedule the wedding for sometime after this task is completed. ;)
I don't think that would have the desired effect.

If you hang weights on the fork frame or adapter (or anywhere on the loader for that matter...), all of that weight is going to end up resting on your plow as your plow is dragging along your driveway. You don't really want the weight there. You want the weight loaded onto your front wheels to give you traction. It may even create the reverse problem - you'd be pushing more weight without any added traction. I think the end result would just be that your plow edge would wear faster. :laugh:
 

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How about attaching weights directly to the fork adapter? Agree that having them on the frame would be better than adding unnecessary weight to the loader arms but it appears there is no readily available system for doing so. I am sure Chris could engineer something that would work really slick for this. He should probably reschedule the wedding for sometime after this task is completed. ;)

JD
JDS,

Like Jim is saying, you would NOT want to add weight to any part of the LOADER. If anything, you would want to attach helium filled balloons to the fork frame (kidding). You want to make the TRACTOR heavy relative to the LOADER (which includes the plow components).

But then, you may additionally find that you'll get better results if you fine tune the balance of ballast added between the rear and the front of the tractor.

Try using your backhoe. If you don't seem to get a lot of front wheel traction, that will be an indication that you may want to take another path. At that point, maybe try just removing the backhoe and see how it goes. If all of your wheels start losing traction against the the plow, then you'll want to start adding front and rear weight.

As for getting weight on the front of the tractor, it's tough to specifically advise with the variety of tractors out there. Check the owners manual for starters. If necessary, get a little creative. I use a few suitcase weights on the tractor frame and then I also adorn the hood protector with a few windings of some old heavy link chain.

But my property is very steep, slippery, and winding. I have a lot of climbing turns and such so turning traction is paramount for me. For people with flats and straights, this won't be nearly as important.
 

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Just finished this last Saturday. Very smooth install just as everyone else has stated here. Excellent system and looking forward to using it this winter. Posting up some pictures of the finished product. Let me know if you see anything I missed or could use some adjusting.
Thanks,
JD

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In the above picture you can see the new "experimental" locking keys in place of the pins for securing the blade mounting bracket. Very slick and work nice.

View attachment 58817


Just need some snow to put it to the test. I think I am going to like it. The forks have already come in handy moving brush, pallets. Million and one other uses that come to mind...

Thanks Chris for the great product/s. My Dad had no idea it was not an OEM JD setup.

JD
Great setup. This is exactly what I am ordering today for my 2032r.
 

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I started with lots of weight on the back of my 2305 and found that I didn't have enough front weight to steer well...

I loaded the rear tires and put weights on the rear wheels and decreased the amount of weight on the rear hitch. Much better. :bigthumb: This setup put the weight on the rear axle.

Since I was using the OEM JD plow and Quick Hitch, there wasn't any place up front to put weight. My plan at the time was to fab a couple brackets to bolt onto where the FEL mounts attach that would hold my suitcase weights (didn't have a FEL...)

Diesel has modified his FEL mount to hold some weight as a counter balance for his sickle mower.. Might want to check out his build thread.

If you don't want to use chains, you might check out KennyD's thread where he grooved (sipped) his tires.


Good luck and enjoy your new plow. It looks great.
 

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If your locking pins aren't wired please do so. I had 1 pop out then I wired them to the frame. I was lucky I found the locking pin. This system works great. slkpk
 

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I looked at the house a while ago and see my order from Chris setting in the driveway. Can't wait to get home. Thank you Chris for your time and shipping rather quickly.:bigthumb:
 

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If your locking pins aren't wired please do so. I had 1 pop out then I wired them to the frame. I was lucky I found the locking pin. This system works great. slkpk
Thanks. Until very recently, those keys were provided as an experimental alternative to the standard clevis pins so they were not fastened to the attachments. As of a short while ago, all of our add-on attachments now use only the lock keys (no more clevis pins) and they are cabled to the attachment. Still, having one come out should be an extremely unusual situation. I've had one pop out once in the 2-3 years of trials, and that was an older, lesser, design. But since it is possible, that is why there are two.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
First big snowfall to clear today. I had used it on a couple of 3 incher's but this morning woke up to 8 inches on the ground. The blade setup is excellent and works really well. Love the ability to angle using the Artillian diverter. The big question I had was what kind of traction would I get without chains or any rear weight. Well, I had no issues getting up and down my drive either backing up it or driving straight up it. Even have some patches of ice on the hill and the tractor climbed right up with no issues.

Thanks again for this setup as it is an excellent way to move the white stuff!
 

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First big snowfall to clear today. I had used it on a couple of 3 incher's but this morning woke up to 8 inches on the ground. The blade setup is excellent and works really well. Love the ability to angle using the Artillian diverter. The big question I had was what kind of traction would I get without chains or any rear weight. Well, I had no issues getting up and down my drive either backing up it or driving straight up it. Even have some patches of ice on the hill and the tractor climbed right up with no issues.

Thanks again for this setup as it is an excellent way to move the white stuff!
Great to hear!
Have yet to use mine this insanely warm winter.
 
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