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I just unloaded a HLA 54" snow pusher from good works tractor
no snow to push yet but, let me give my 1st impression of it just getting it off the truck and pallet that thing is built like a tank:good2:
I'll keep you posted on how it works on actual snow later on
 

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I just unloaded a HLA 54" snow pusher from good works tractor
no snow to push yet but, let me give my 1st impression of it just getting it off the truck and pallet that thing is built like a tank:good2:
I'll keep you posted on how it works on actual snow later on
Good luck with your new snow pusher. You will find depending upon the actual air temperature that your rear ballast needs are going to vary and by as much as 300 pounds or more. It's most helpful if you have ballast that's easy to add and remove. The warmer the air temp, the more ballast you will need as the snow will be heavier, pack more when being pushed and you want to avoid driving over the snow before attempting to scrape and push it as it will pack down and be tough to scrape up. Once you drive over the snow, the traction diminishes because of the hard pack on the surface.

Pushing snow is a challenge when its between 28 and 33 degrees. Heaviest snow, worst traction.

From 10 to 27 degrees, pushing snow gets much easier, it's lighter and also traction is vastly better than the warmer temps.

When its very cold, single digits and below zero, the cold is ideal for snow pushing / plowing and the rear ballast needs are much less. Traction is great (usually the best) and steering is much easier the colder it gets. That's why being able to add and remove ballast easily is helpful as you can remove ballast and improve the front steering and have more tractor control.

If you haven't used a snow pusher before on a tractor like this, I would suggest trying with and without the FEL Float function. Personally, I prefer no Float function and just control the down pressure with the loader control. It makes steering easier and you spend less time fighting the front wheels lacking both drive traction and turning function.

Just make sure to push the snow back and leave yourself room for future snow piles. Just lift the snow pusher slightly as you leave the pavement and push onto the lawn or other more fragile surface.

I had some snow piled over 28 feet from front to rear when our thaw began. Below shows a picture of the snow piles as they began to melt and I dug out the storm drains so the water could drain as the thaw occurred. Second picture shows from the actual storm drain cover to the tractor on the street. As of today, about half of those piles remain and are now going to freeze and become big piles of ice.

Now we are headed back into the freeze and snow. Once it thaws and then freezes, it takes a FEL bucket to move it.......

Good luck and looking forward to hearing how you are going to like your snow pusher.:good2: Don't be surprised if you have to make adjustments to ballast amounts, steering input, traction, etc. as conditions change.
 

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Congrats and enjoy. I was lucky my bucket level set and where my snow Pusher works best we’re exactly the same. Plus one on what Sulley said. I have some long runs so when I start getting too much in front of me on the long drive I just pop the bucket up so I don’t scrape the ground and roll the pile off into the woods to the right.

When I was on asphalt I would just use float mode for final cleanup. My Pusher has HDPE runners and a rubber edge. May get some wider steel ones made now that I am on gravel. I have to find a good little fab shop here.
 
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I just unloaded a HLA 54" snow pusher from good works tractor
no snow to push yet but, let me give my 1st impression of it just getting it off the truck and pallet that thing is built like a tank:good2:
I'll keep you posted on how it works on actual snow later on
I think you'll really like your new pusher over moving snow with a bucket of any kind. Have fun:good2:
 
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