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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some weeks ago I went out to start the Z710A. I have a Battery Tender connected to it to keep the factory installed battery up to 12 volts. It wouldn't turn over to start. First thought comes to mind...dead battery!! So, I removed the battery and put it on the work bench and connected a charger to get it back up to 12 volts. Every day I would check to see if the battery would lose the volts...it checks 12.5 volts each day for 10 days. So, I removed the positive/starter cable and cleaned all the connections, including the wires to the coils and other wires and installed the battery. Still no turn over or anything on trying to start. Next thought came to mind... a bad ignition switch. Order one and received it today. Installed the new one and turned the key and same old thing... no clicks, no starter bendix turn over. I had installed a new PTO switch last month, as I was having some mower deck shutting down last fall. Removed the new PTO switch and cleaned all the connections and reinstalled it. Still no start.
Now here is the 'strange' part of this whole no start problem. If I pull the choke lever knob up it will start as if nothing is wrong. If I try to start the tractor without any coke, it won't make a sound...no starter Bendix turning. This choke lever is mechanical...no electrical ...just a cable going to the carburetor... What "moon phase" or we in this month? May be connected to the 'government shutdown!!!!
 

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Old Pa-pa
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Believe me, there's electrical involved some kind of way.

Maybe your changing the geometry of something with the flexing of the choke cable that's causing a poor connection to make up,
but there is something of an electrical nature going on.
 

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Believe me, there's electrical involved some kind of way.

Maybe your changing the geometry of something with the flexing of the choke cable that's causing a poor connection to make up,
but there is something of an electrical nature going on.
My thought as well. He needs to somehow watch what is happening underneath as the choke is engaged.
 

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My vote is still PTO switch and associated wiring harness. I’ll bet the cable is rustling the wiring to the point that a connection is maybe/broken to allow the starter to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Old Cajun and Coaltrain, I appreciate your thoughts and reasons on this no start problem. In my many life years I have worked on hundred's of automobiles, lawn tractors, and other motorized equipment, I never once had this sort of problem to occur. Up to last fall I never had the 'no start' occur when not any choking of the engine. When I last used the tractor, and since there hasn't been any work done near or close to the choke cable. As you well know all the electrical controls, wire connections is located in the instrument panel. When I installed the new PTO switch, I made sure there wasn't any lose wire connection...from the PTO switch wires or to the Ignition switch wiring.
After I found what was causing the no start today, I went back and open up the instrument panel and made sure there wasn't any electrical wire being rubbed or near the choke cable.

However, here is something else that startled me when the tractor started. When the tractor started and running, I removed my left foot from the brake pedal and the engine died. So I restarted the tractor and removed the foot from the brake again and it died once more.
Here is something that I have found out and learn for the first time. I had the battery charger connected to the battery during the times I was starting the tractor. When I removed the battery charger cables from the battery, the engine would not shut down when I removed my foot from the brake pedal. I don't know why that would have anything to do with the engine shutting down with the battery charger connected to the battery. But, That is the case with me here on that problem.

I will take up the situation tomorrow, after I had a nights sleep...refreshing my brain may solve any matters with this tractor.
 

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I would suspect a bad harness in the area under the instrument panel. Unplug the harness at the computer. Check for corrosion and/or backed out pins. I believe the choke and throttle cables may be ziptied to the main harness.
Whenever I have a weird issue like this I break it down and diag issue by issue. Just like a honey-do list.. Work em one by one. Sometimes when you fix one issue you fix the others. Or if I am lucky (haha) I have multiple issues affecting the system. One of my favorite tricks is to set the machine as you would to start it. Then hold the key to start position and wiggle wires and harness. You'll find it.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Seems like the choke cable might be rubbing/pulling on something that's part of the safety switch?
 

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Cranking up with a battery charger hooked up, remember one thing about battery chargers, you're putting out DC with a
pretty good ripple content to it, not pure DC.

Unfiltered DC can cause weird troubles with computerized equipment, especially if there are some shaky/corroded grounds
floating around here and there...........Just a thought.

Done chassed lots of weirdness in my time, 30 year oilfield electronic tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Went out this morning to see if the Z710A would not. I went through again with the wiring under the instrument panel and cannot find any bare wire or where there is any problem why it won't start. The choke cable doesn't touch any wires , so, that isn't the whole problem with the no start.
I tried to start the tractor with the choke and it tries to kick in the starter, but, it only clicks and briefly turns the starter Bendix.
It only acts like it wants to turn over. It will sometimes make a turn on the starter, but, it won't completely fire up. I'm thinking it is the battery that hasn't enough voltage to start. This Z710A battery is actual smaller than the battery in my JD 345. and has less CCA and Ca amps. I would think that John Deere would install a battery with more CCA's in their commercial mowers.

So, here is my plan. I will remove the battery from the tractor and move my Tahoe so I can jump the tractor by connecting the jumper cables from the Tahoe battery to the positive and negative cable on the tractor. If it starts, now we know rest of the story.


UPDATE!!

Some of you know what happens when you put 1000 cranking amps to a Ztrak starter, you get some rapid voltage fire. Results did happen when I did just that to see if the tractor would start. One turn of the starter bendix and the engine fired at up on first turn of the starter. The old 2013 factory battery must have lost of it's cranking amps . Well, what can one expect it being 5-3/4 years old. Although it shows 12.4 volts on the test meter. It appears the ignition system needs more CCA when it cold winter, and some choking to get it to turn over.

Now I'm going to experiment with a larger (more CCA & CA) battery. I'll need a battery size...5-1/8" width x 9" length, x 8' height to fit in the battery tray on the Z710A. I think John Deere installed a small amp battery for one reason...keep the price down.

Will follow up on what I find in way of a larger battery.

Thanks to all here that gave their thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most all Lawn Tractor batteries are less than 350 CCA and 435 CA, plus the size details those figures. Any larger CCA battery comes under a Farm tractor type or Auto battery. The Z710A space for the battery is designed for a Lawn tractor battery, and that tells the story on what type of battery that Deere uses.

The space (battery tray) on the Z710A is 9" length x 5" wide x no more than 8-1/2" in height. Most Farm tractor batteries are larger in width than the space I have, therefore, I'm limited to a Lawn tractor battery. Unless, I redesign the space tray larger to except the Farm tractor type, which I probably will do. I'm determine to get a battery with at least 540 CCA and 665 CA amps. I will build a large battery tray and bolt it to the area to increase the capacity.
 

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Went out this morning to see if the Z710A would not. I went through again with the wiring under the instrument panel and cannot find any bare wire or where there is any problem why it won't start. The choke cable doesn't touch any wires , so, that isn't the whole problem with the no start.
I tried to start the tractor with the choke and it tries to kick in the starter, but, it only clicks and briefly turns the starter Bendix.
It only acts like it wants to turn over. It will sometimes make a turn on the starter, but, it won't completely fire up. I'm thinking it is the battery that hasn't enough voltage to start. This Z710A battery is actual smaller than the battery in my JD 345. and has less CCA and Ca amps. I would think that John Deere would install a battery with more CCA's in their commercial mowers.

So, here is my plan. I will remove the battery from the tractor and move my Tahoe so I can jump the tractor by connecting the jumper cables from the Tahoe battery to the positive and negative cable on the tractor. If it starts, now we know rest of the story.


UPDATE!!

Some of you know what happens when you put 1000 cranking amps to a Ztrak starter, you get some rapid voltage fire. Results did happen when I did just that to see if the tractor would start. One turn of the starter bendix and the engine fired at up on first turn of the starter. The old 2013 factory battery must have lost of it's cranking amps . Well, what can one expect it being 5-3/4 years old. Although it shows 12.4 volts on the test meter. It appears the ignition system needs more CCA when it cold winter, and some choking to get it to turn over.

Now I'm going to experiment with a larger (more CCA & CA) battery. I'll need a battery size...5-1/8" width x 9" length, x 8' height to fit in the battery tray on the Z710A. I think John Deere installed a small amp battery for one reason...keep the price down.

Will follow up on what I find in way of a larger battery.

Thanks to all here that gave their thoughts.
Lot's of batteries that show they produce 12 volts don't have the amperage to start the vehicle. It's best to load test the battery when it's in the vehicle and also use the load tester to determine the alternator output. I can't tell you how many batteries I have seen charged to show 12 volts and they have a bad cell or two and simply won't produce the power to start the vehicle it's in.

Also, a fully charged 12 volt battery for mowers, cars, etc. usually will fully charge up to about 14 to 14.3 volts with a battery charger. I can't recall when a battery I have been charging ever tested at 12 volts, maybe 12.9 but some where between 12 plus to about 14 volts. Check the voltage on your fully charged new battery when you get it, I bet its 13 volts or more without any loads on it.

Always start with the basics and also, batteries going bad will cause lot's of funky things to happen, just as a unreliable ground will cause. After all, a battery with cells bad or failing is producing some of the same symptoms as the bad ground...

You can purchase a nice battery load tester for $40 or so. They are very useful as they sort the good and bad batteries immediately.

I also think you don't need to upgrade the battery size for your mower. It worked for 5 plus years with the battery that came in it and that is life expectancy for most batteries.........

Here's one load tester which allows you to increase the load amount to test the battery.

Ironton Battery/Carbon Pile Load Tester | Northern Tool + Equipment

Here's another which applies a standard load, but sorts the good and bad. Personally, I like the dial gauge and not the LED print out so you can see the impact of the load on the gauge. This is the load tester I own and it's been a very helpful tool and one I recommend.

Buy Battery Testers - Free Shipping over $50 | Zoro.com
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