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Just ordered a 1025R - Some details and general questions inside

6662 Views 51 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Shrek
Hi everyone -

I recently ordered a 1025R and had some general questions. But first, a little background...

I live on a 3-acre property of which about 2 are mowed. I originally purchased an x758 a few years ago, and although it's an amazing garden tractor for mowing, I've been wanting a tractor with more utility. Specifically, I've been wanting a loader, grapple, and the ease of purchasing other attachments. I do have the grapple from Innovative Tractor Attachments for the x758, and although it's strong and useful, I want something bigger with more utility. I also need a machine that will allow me to mow as I don't have the space or desire for two machines at this point.

So, I decided to contact my local dealer and he made me a great deal on a trade-in for a 2021 1025R. I ordered it with the following attachments/items:

120R loader (NSL) with 53" bucket, Deere ballast box, 54D mower deck with load-n-go brackets, Frontier AV20F grapple, 3rd SCV valve kit, Front quick hitch along with a 54" plow, Seat cover, and the R3 radial ply tires (Versaturfs).

I decided on the NSL loader as I won't do much, if any, pallet work or truck loading/unloading. I also researched and watched all TTWT's videos and wasn't convinced it would be an upgrade for my personal use. Most of my work will be with the grapple and using the loader for mulch, dirt, stone, etc.

I decided on the front quick hitch for plowing as opposed to a loader-mounted plow as it works a lot better for some space limitations I have in the winter. I've used a front quick hitch on the x758 for a few years and it works out very well, so I'll stick with that system for now for winter duties.

I'm planning to fill my ballast box with concrete. The loader manual states there should be a minimum of 580 pounds from the rear hitch and I think the concrete-filled box is a good and simple option for my needs. I'm planning to remove the loader/grapple and ballast box whenever I mow the lawn.

Now for a few questions....

Is it worth picking up the iMatch for ease of attaching/detaching the ballast box? I was also thinking I might purchase a Heavy Hitch for winter plowing as I have some suitcase weights that were used on the x758. I know the Heavy Hitch attaches well to the iMatch. I don't want to purchase a bunch more suitcase weights for ballast when using the loader, but I think my existing weights along with the Heavy Hitch would be adequate for plowing duties. I guess another option would be to use the ballast box while snow plowing, although this seems excessive.

I have some slopes on my lawn that the x758 mows with ease. I'm assuming the 1025R will be a little more of a challenge, but I'm not too concerned. Is it worth having the rear tires filled to help with stability? I've sent an e-mail to my Deere dealer to see if they sell Rim Guard. I don't want to go the route of wheel spacers at this point. I hear some mixed opinions on whether or not these put too much stress the axle.

My last question (for now!) is about my current Deere 17P cart. The cart currently attaches to the x758 frame with a single pin through the drawbar. How would I attach the 17P cart attach to the 1025R? I read some people use a cross drawbar mounted to the iMatch, but I thought I'd ask for some more opinions.

Any suggestions for other crucial items I might be missing are welcomed. I looked into the single point hydraulic connection for the loader, but I don't think it makes sense right now as it doesn't account for the 3rd set of connections for the grapple. I will also be looking to buy some equipment from KBOH in the near future.

Thanks for reading this long post!
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That 580 lbs doesn't sound right to me unless JD changed the requirements. If I remember right my 120R NSL FEL manual says 772 lbs of ballast required PLUS filled rear tires OR rear wheel weights.

So I got the Titan ballast box and filled it with concrete. The box specs out at 132 lbs so six 80 lb bags of concrete brought it up to 612 lbs. I also use a Titan quick hitch which specs out at 60 lbs, so between the ballast box and the quick hitch I'm at 672 lbs and have additional weight I can throw in there if needed. My rear R4 tires are filled as well.

Yes get an iMatch or equivalent quick hitch. I have a Titan brand one which works fine and is way less than a JD iMatch but if you buy Titan just beware you may need to tweak it to fit because apparently they don't care about adhering to dimensions when welding on the top link mounting ears.

Mowing. Unless you have some real tight spaces to squeeze into while turning and/or the additional weight of the FEL is a problem, you can leave the loader on and just drop the bucket/forks off instead.

Your cart I have no idea, I only have trailers. I will say the Titan ballast box has a nice hitch receiver built in.
Wonder why the change. Did anything change on the tractor or loader?
The current manual is 580 with no mention of fluid or wheel weights.
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The 3 point hitch has a stated maximum lift capacity, should be in the manual. I think it's around 800 lbs at the pins.
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So what that means is that at the end of the lower 3 point arms, the hitch system can lift 1177 lbs. As you move weight further away from the ends of the arms, the capacity goes down because the hydraulic lift has to work against the leverage of the arms. Most tractor manufacturers will specify lift at the arms and also 24 inches behind the arms, this is because no implement actually mounts directly over the arms, they are always at least slightly behind them.
In layman's terms, does that mean the ballast box/contents should not exceed 758 pounds? Or is the limit 1177 pounds?
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