Just ordered a 1025R - Some details and general questions inside

ClydeLogan said:

Are your 2 acres to be mowed meticulously groomed? If so, having the tires filled might do some damage you would not like. Or it's rough pasture, not a big deal.

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Jimmy Walker said:

You should consider versaturfs over R3. You can also get 50 or 72 lb wheel weights to help with stability.

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alanaka24 said:

Definitely get the iMatch. For what they cost and the convenience they provide it's honestly a no brainer. As for your ballast, I haven't seen it mentioned yet but have you thought about getting a box blade instead of the ballast box? You said you plan on moving rock and dirt with the loader and if you're planning to do any sort of grading or driveway maintenance a box blade would be a needed tool and it doubles as ballast. The trade off is that it sticks out much further than a ballast box but from what I've read you can hang suitcase weights on it to increase your ballast so it really is a multi use implement. I have a Titan ballast box that I got back in early Feb and it's still in the packaging in my garage. I'm sure I'll use it eventually but my 5ft box blade has been all the ballast I have needed so far and the fact it sticks out a little further doesn't really matter to me because the only time I'm in tight spaces is when I mow and when mowing I remove the loader and box blade anyway to keep from rutting up my lawn. I have a 2025 not the 1025 so there may be some differences in approach but they're largely the same tractor. Mines just a little taller/longer.

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SulleyBear said:

You are going to find you are going to need to extend the hitch on the rear of the 1025r to have any reasonable turning radiius with the cart. The heavy hitch receiver will bolt up under the rear when you remove the rear "hitch" plate that comes on the 1 series. But even with that, you will be happier if you extend the hitch point back on the hitch by inserting one of these.

Then just mount a regular 2" hitch receiver ball mount which the cart will attach to. You can also use the ball mount to mount a hitch ball on to move trailers. Without the extension, the tongue of the cart will be so close to the rear tires on the 1 series because the hitch is tucked so far up under the tractor. Easy to fix and it makes towing the cart and backing a trailer "normal" by getting the actual hitch point away from the rear tires of the tractor.

Just make sure when you purchase a 2" ball mount, that the cart tongue will slide over the end of the ball mount so you can pin the cart to it. Measure the opening on your carts hitch where it pins to the draw bar to make sure the ball mount is narrow enough to fit in the cart hitch. When you see the pieces, you will know what I am talking about.

If you don't use the extension on the hitch receiver, the tongue of the cart hitch and the cart itself will run into the rear tires on the tractor with even modest turns. The factory plate hitch which is on the 1 series is useful for only pinning a clevis to for hooking a tow strap, etc. because its so far up under the tractor.

Definitely get the I Match as the heavier the 3 point item, the more critical it is to align it for hitching. With the I Match, you can hook up anything easily and it you need to, you can push the 3 point item with the IMatch to get it aligned. Otherwise you are wrestling with a 600 pound piece of concrete less than 2' square, which is very concentrated weight in a small area.

I also suggest you consider a rear 3ph carry all using the carry all frames. I use my rear carry all which I built to haul my rear ballast and its handy to be able to also carry other items you need, like tools, rakes and shovels, straps and chains and all of the other stuff you will find yourself using.

Here are some threads on building a rear carry all yourself.

Rear 3 Point Carry All's, What are you using?

I have a rear 3 point carry all which I made from a pre made frame I bought at the Farm Store. Without a doubt, the 3ph carry all is an extremely valuable tool for making your tractor as useful and handy in various projects. I have learned a lot using my carry all and I realize I made some...

www.greentractortalk.com

One last point, your x758 had all wheel drive, which was hydraulic and engaged automatically. The 1 series is a true 4wd system and you are likely going to have problems turning tight with the 4wd engaged and not tearing up the turf, etc. Just be prepared for a learning curve on using the 1 series 4wd system, compared to the x758. You never had to give the x758 a thought and it just engaged the traction needed for the task it was handling. That's not the case with the 1 series. You will NOT want to run the 1 series in 4wd on the pavement, especially when the pavement is dry.

Also, from a safety standpoint, if you are carrying loads on the FEL of the 1 series, when the tractor isn't in 4wd, you can find the rear brakes won't stop the tractor if the load has made the rear end of the tractor light. Going up and down hills carry a load, make sure to put the 1 series in 4wd so you can control the tractor. You never had this issue with the x758 and its important you are aware of this difference because it will impact how you mow with your new machine.

I have thrown a lot at you here, hopefully, I have made it clear. If not, don't hesitate to ask questions.

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SulleyBear said:

One last thing, the front Quik Tatch hitch on the 1 series is UNDER the front frame of the tractor, where on the x758, it mounted off the front of the frame ends. The 1 series hitch is MUCH lower, meaning it limits the lift height of the 1 series 54" or 60" snow plow. It's not a huge deal, but you will notice this design........."issue" which frankly, is very disappointing. But you will still achieve all of your snow plowing needs with the machine as I plow a LOT of snow with my 1 series. In fact, I made a custom plow for my 1 series, but I suggest you get used to the 54" or 60" plow before you get into larger plows.

Rear ballast for the snow plowing is critical for machine control and a well balanced machine. I run between 500 and 850 pounds of rear ballast plowing snow, depending upon the conditions. This is where the rear carry all will really shine as you can carry snow melt or a walk behind snow blower for sidewalks, or lots of other choices on the rear carry all.

Plus its easy to throw another 50lb bag of snow melt on the carry all to get the machine weight where it works best. I keep 1,800 pounds of snow melt in stock in the winter in my barn and carry it for any ballast in excess of the base 500 pounds I have on the rear carry all in a cement cylinder I carry.

Also, I suggest you DO NOT spend the money on the rear heavy hitch blade as you can back drag with the front plow and accomplish the majority of what you need to do. You mentioned tight conditions when plowing, so that alone will make handing the rear blade on the tractor something I would not spend the money on at this time. Additionally, the heavy hitch rear blade isn't heavy enough to adequately meet the rear ballast needs without hanging suitcase weights on the plow blade.

Make sure to put the rubber plow edge on your snow plow. You will be very glad you did. Search the issue for a lot of reading about the difference it makes.

With the Versa Turf radials and the right amount of rear ballast, you don't need to use tire chains. I have never had chains on my 1 series and I plow an average of 700 driveways a season, sometimes, as high as 1,000 driveways per winter. I have about two dozen neighbors drives that I plow and this year, I plowed a total of 28 times. The heaviest plowing season was 42 plowing events and they were all from December 15th to February 14th that winter, which is plowing 42 days out of 60. No plowing before December 15th that year and none after Valentines Day.

Now, we are on the edge of a forecast 4" of snow for the next 24 hours, on April 20th.....so you just never know. Unless we get a lot of snow, I don't plan on putting my plow back on my tractor. I am DONE plowing snow this year..............

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stevenk said:

Maybe I am wrong, but I thought r3 tires were turf tires?? Aren't versa turf r14?

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JD/1982 said:

1025R should be delivered in next 2 days. Equipped with 54" auto connect deck with Load N Go, quik connect,53" bucket,60" snow plow mounted to loader, HH Hitch Toothbar, HH offset weight bar, 8 X40# weights. HH weight cart. Versa Turf tires.
I have a Cyclone Rake which will be mounted to 2" receiver hitch to mate with HH 2" receiver plate hitch at tractor replacing the standard hitch. Dealer has advised with the weight cart to remove weight bracket from 3pt hitch, there would be no benefit for that function with an IMatch. Imminently my only pending implement will be a electric broadcast spreader ( on 3pt or IMatch). Perhaps the IMatch would have been less of a struggle with attaching that. He also suggests removing the 3 pt links for mowing. (I guess I would have just left on the IMatch except for the Cyclone Rake function. Images I've seen show that people using the Cyclone Rake on a SCUT, attached with the CR 2" receiver plate hitch, also remove the 3 pt links for that task. He is sending along the IMatch for me to compare my uses with 3pt hitch/IMatch choice. I plan to be switching from mower duties to bucket duties for small wooded area/ path maintenance twice weekly, & just adding the weight bracket for loader/snow removal & removing the weights for mowing. Essentially flat 2.5 acres, I guess I hadn't planned on removing the 3 point hitch that frequently. Didn't have a loader/bucket before. Just mowed, vacuumed leaves, used a walk behind Ariens snowblower, lawn & garden cleaning up yard with tractor wagon etc. Trading my 40 yr old 317 to not have to wrestle with mower deck R&R. Although sharpening blades will now be easier with the Load N Go, as will the snow clearing duties on my 200' driveway. My main question would be with these tasks that I do at this point, is there much benefit to the IMatch? Opinions appreciated.

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Operator's Manual View

Operator's Manual View

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