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Just ordered a 1025R - Some details and general questions inside

6999 Views 51 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Shrek
Hi everyone -

I recently ordered a 1025R and had some general questions. But first, a little background...

I live on a 3-acre property of which about 2 are mowed. I originally purchased an x758 a few years ago, and although it's an amazing garden tractor for mowing, I've been wanting a tractor with more utility. Specifically, I've been wanting a loader, grapple, and the ease of purchasing other attachments. I do have the grapple from Innovative Tractor Attachments for the x758, and although it's strong and useful, I want something bigger with more utility. I also need a machine that will allow me to mow as I don't have the space or desire for two machines at this point.

So, I decided to contact my local dealer and he made me a great deal on a trade-in for a 2021 1025R. I ordered it with the following attachments/items:

120R loader (NSL) with 53" bucket, Deere ballast box, 54D mower deck with load-n-go brackets, Frontier AV20F grapple, 3rd SCV valve kit, Front quick hitch along with a 54" plow, Seat cover, and the R3 radial ply tires (Versaturfs).

I decided on the NSL loader as I won't do much, if any, pallet work or truck loading/unloading. I also researched and watched all TTWT's videos and wasn't convinced it would be an upgrade for my personal use. Most of my work will be with the grapple and using the loader for mulch, dirt, stone, etc.

I decided on the front quick hitch for plowing as opposed to a loader-mounted plow as it works a lot better for some space limitations I have in the winter. I've used a front quick hitch on the x758 for a few years and it works out very well, so I'll stick with that system for now for winter duties.

I'm planning to fill my ballast box with concrete. The loader manual states there should be a minimum of 580 pounds from the rear hitch and I think the concrete-filled box is a good and simple option for my needs. I'm planning to remove the loader/grapple and ballast box whenever I mow the lawn.

Now for a few questions....

Is it worth picking up the iMatch for ease of attaching/detaching the ballast box? I was also thinking I might purchase a Heavy Hitch for winter plowing as I have some suitcase weights that were used on the x758. I know the Heavy Hitch attaches well to the iMatch. I don't want to purchase a bunch more suitcase weights for ballast when using the loader, but I think my existing weights along with the Heavy Hitch would be adequate for plowing duties. I guess another option would be to use the ballast box while snow plowing, although this seems excessive.

I have some slopes on my lawn that the x758 mows with ease. I'm assuming the 1025R will be a little more of a challenge, but I'm not too concerned. Is it worth having the rear tires filled to help with stability? I've sent an e-mail to my Deere dealer to see if they sell Rim Guard. I don't want to go the route of wheel spacers at this point. I hear some mixed opinions on whether or not these put too much stress the axle.

My last question (for now!) is about my current Deere 17P cart. The cart currently attaches to the x758 frame with a single pin through the drawbar. How would I attach the 17P cart attach to the 1025R? I read some people use a cross drawbar mounted to the iMatch, but I thought I'd ask for some more opinions.

Any suggestions for other crucial items I might be missing are welcomed. I looked into the single point hydraulic connection for the loader, but I don't think it makes sense right now as it doesn't account for the 3rd set of connections for the grapple. I will also be looking to buy some equipment from KBOH in the near future.

Thanks for reading this long post!
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Are your 2 acres to be mowed meticulously groomed? If so, having the tires filled might do some damage you would not like. Or it's rough pasture, not a big deal.

I have a front heavy hitch weight bracket, plus Titan ballast box. The iMatch facilitates picking up the box when needed, and if I had to stop and hook up a conventional 3-point I might skip that step on many occasions, which the front axle would not like. I store and use my suitcase weights in the ballast box, so they serve the purpose of concrete. And, if I need less ballast than all the weights combined, I can easily just lift out a few of them.

For the drawbar, check out Heavy Hitch for their hitch receiver plate that bolts to the place under the rear PTO originally occupied by a flat steel plate.
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I've been considering some more flexible and adjustable options for rear ballast as opposed to the JD ballast box filled with cement. I'm also concerned with how low the ballast box will be to the ground while doing loader work.
The ballast box, obviously, does not need to be filled with cement. Over the past 6 years I have used play sand (loose), gravel, brick pavers, scrap steel, and finally, my suitcase weight collection. I have a crane scale, so I can pick up the ballast box with the loader and see exactly how much the loaded box weighs. I settled on the suitcase weights because the weight is easy to adjust down if needed by just lifting out the appropriate number of 42 lb weights, plus it gives me room in the box to carry various tools for the job I am doing that day. There's even room for a small cooler with beverages.

Concrete has the disadvantage of being fixed in place, and leaving little room on top to carry anything, like chains, for example.
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and (8) 70 pound suitcase weights.
I wish I was young and strong enough to wrangle those 70 pounders around!
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