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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
seems there are alot of things my salesman did not mention as far as offering options, how necessary is a hood guard on this model? Got the 200x on it. Also wondering about ballast for the rear? Already have a case 580L for the heavy lifting, that is what I am used to as far as loader work, how much weight am I going to need on the rear of this 2520 for serious use? Probably like to move rip rap, concrete, dirt, and tearing out smaller trees.

Does deere make a nice weight bracket for the 3pt that uses their cast weights? I noticed the little cast weights were reasonably priced at a little more than a dollar a pound.
 

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I believe the hood guard comes with the 200x loader. I am unsure if you can get the deluxe portions like on the 3x20 and 4x20 tractors.

Most of us use the JD ballast box. Some have stone in it, but most fill it with portland cement. You will need the ballast on the rear to be safe. I think the ballast box is around 150 bucks (could be wrong) and the cement to fill it is around 80 bucks for 7 bags. Total weight will be around 900 pounds or more.
 

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I use a ballast box. Just don't leave it out in the rain to collect water and rust out. Many but not all salesmen don't use these tractors the way we do, so they don't think of some of these options, plus, what they really want to sell you is a new tiller or mower...
 

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Me too!

Just took receipt of a 2520. First tractor. Ordered it with fel, ballast box, front snowblower and bx42 chipper. Bad thing is that being on this site shows me how many more attachments there are.

I love the smell of diesel in the morning. :yahoo:
 

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Might have been a local dealer thing, but my ballast box came with the tractor, and the dealer said it was part of the FEL package. They may have added it to the price of the FEL, because there is not item line for it on my invoice....
 

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Might have been a local dealer thing, but my ballast box came with the tractor, and the dealer said it was part of the FEL package. They may have added it to the price of the FEL, because there is not item line for it on my invoice....

My dealer did the same...he will not sell a loader without the BB.
 

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Just took receipt of a 2520. First tractor. Ordered it with fel, ballast box, front snowblower and bx42 chipper. Bad thing is that being on this site shows me how many more attachments there are.

I love the smell of diesel in the morning. :yahoo:
Welcome to DT Ron:thumbup1gif:
 

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when i ordered my 2320 the salesman led me away from the BB and got me to do wheel weights. which were on the invoice. he also tried like crazy to get me to put turf tires on it instead of the r4's.
 

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when i ordered my 2320 the salesman led me away from the BB and got me to do wheel weights. which were on the invoice. he also tried like crazy to get me to put turf tires on it instead of the r4's.
Personal opinion obviously but if you have wet ground the turf tires should be avoided. I had some for a while and they very quickly become slicks. It really doesn't take much for them to fill with mud then you're a gonna!
 

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i did go with the r4's, but like i said he tried so hard to get me to do the turf tires. he insisted they would be better in the yard, sand and snow. i dont know what his angle was but he tried everything.
 

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when i ordered my 2320 the salesman led me away from the BB and got me to do wheel weights. which were on the invoice. he also tried like crazy to get me to put turf tires on it instead of the r4's.
He needs an education-or at least :read RTFM. To effectively counterbalance the FEL, the weight must be behind the rear axle.
 

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As a minimum I'd add an iMatch & ballast box if not on your order already.
 

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Hi Jeffery and welcome to DT.

Does deere make a nice weight bracket for the 3pt that uses their cast weights? I noticed the little cast weights were reasonably priced at a little more than a dollar a pound.
I don't think you could hang enough back there for counterweighting your FEL,and even if you could,that would be an awful expensive (over $1,000.00) ballast box.:wink:
For serious FEL work,you should have close to 1,000 lbs on your 3pt.

Greg
 

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Congrats and Welcome to Deere Talk, Jeffery!

You might check out the Heavy Hitch. I just received mine from a fellow across the state from me. It is a beautiful piece, and incorporates a 2" receiver as well as crossbars to hang JD basket weights from.
It would be difficult to get as much weight on it as a fully cemented BB, but some advantages I find are less overhang and a multi-use piece for any number of situations.
Check out: heavyhitch.com
Gary
 

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For serious FEL work,you should have close to 1,000 lbs on your 3pt.

Greg
How very true. :good2: Not for just the digging part but, let's not over look the safety issue here. Waiving a heavy loader around 6 feet in the air takes serious counter weight. Ballast Box is the only way to go. These machines are very unstable with that weight in the air without a the proper counterweight.
 

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Wheel weights and filled tires will give you a lower center of gravity keeping you stable and increasing your odds of remaining upright when you turn over a bump with a load elevated in the air.

A ballast box, rotary cutter, boxblade or whatever behind the wheels is different. The ballast box is easiest to use and decreases your odds of taking out fence post and garage doors when you are looking at the loader as you turn. The point of the weight behind the tires is to pivot the machine about the back axle, decreasing weight on the front tires. Without the load behind the rear axles, I would encourage you to stock up on front axle parts, as you will tear up the front end by having all of the weight of the loader and its contents bearing down on the front tires and drive parts.
 

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I agree with getting a ballast box. I have one (filled with 4 bags of concrete mix) and use it (combined with 8 - cast iron weights) when I need to use the loader in tight areas. Weighs little over 800 lbs. It also makes a great place to store my suitcase weights when I don't need them on the front of the machine. Otherwise, I tend to just leave my rear finish mower attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If I end up buying the quick hitch and ballast box, does the box set off easy and at the right angle on the ground so that it is effortless getting it on and off once the quick hitch is setup right? Or is there some wrestling around that ends up having to be done everytime you want the ballast on?
 

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If I end up buying the quick hitch and ballast box, does the box set off easy and at the right angle on the ground so that it is effortless getting it on and off once the quick hitch is setup right? Or is there some wrestling around that ends up having to be done everytime you want the ballast on?
Jeffery, you hit the nail on the head, "once the QH is setup right". No fuss, no muss. :good2:
 
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