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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the King Kutter Professional a decent light duty rotary mower. Found a 60" on sale and I am thinking of going ahead and picking it up tomorrow. I know it is green but just looking for something to do brush <1" and grass.
 

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I would be concerned about how long the dealer has sold the brand and if parts are readily available. I had a few problems with my Chinese grooming mower but after getting the bugs out it has been reliable.

One wheel broke off while mowing a flat lawn... I re-welded the pin back on the yoke.

Both outboard sheaves came off their spindles,,, one twice.... the second time it came back down on it's spindle and the key routed out the hole, $68 to replace the sheave. Fixed the problem with Red loctite.

The John Deere dealer I bought if from stopped carrying the brand and parts. It took a few phone calls and some driving to find a dealer that could help me with parts. I ordered extra spindle nuts and their style of bent tab lock washers just to have on hand.

Check out all welds on the unit you are thinking about buying, maybe you can talk them down further if you find a bad weld that needs to be fixed.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The unit is for sale at a local farm supply store and they have sold the King Kutter brand for many years and they are a King Kutter dealer so parts should not be a problem. Tackit you bring up very good points and I will look at the welds along with the entire unit. Since they are a retail store and have the unit on sale I am sure this is the best price. Here is a link to the unit.

http://www.kingkutter.com/ProProducts.asp?ProProd=Pro FH Kutter
 

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TSC and many other carry king cutter so parts, as long as they are available, should be fairly easy to get.

The cutter in the link looks light in the gear box and in the tail wheel assembly. I would be very, very careful turning on uneven ground. The good news is that its all very basic construction and it looks like common materials could be found easily to make any repairs or improvements needed.

A 6' Deere MX6 can be had for 1,700.00 so I would assume that this unit is close to 800.00?

For light duty or low use, it should be a good unit, but keep an eye on it and fix any issues immeidiatly. I assume you have a welder?
 

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Looks like an OK unit. Like MJ says it would be a simple job to build a heaver tail wheel frame if it ever should become damaged.... as long as the money is right and parts are available I wouldn't fear buying one, I would think if the mower was trouble for them they wouldn't sell it.

My JD rotary mower is nearly twenty years old and looks like it's been through three world wars but it still gets the job done. A few scrapes, bumps and bruises are fine, they go with the territory as they say... so don't pass on it because it may need to be beefed up at some point. I assume it has a slip clutch, it's an important feature to have.

I built a rear bumper for my rotary mower out of 3/8 angle iron due to hidden 4-6" black locust stumps left by the previous owner of the property. The hidden stumps bent the heck out of my new mower's rear apron when backing into them, after I fitted the mower with the 3/8 angle iron bumper I jerked those hidden stumps clean out of the ground when I backed up into them. It made me feel so good every time I hit one.. after a couple years the property became stump free.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The cutter in the link looks light in the gear box and in the tail wheel assembly.

For light duty or low use, it should be a good unit, but keep an eye on it and fix any issues immeidiatly. I assume you have a welder?
Thanks Brian I was comparing this unit to an LX5 series and the gear box, and construction seemed very comparable. MX series is to much for the 2x20 series IMO. The tail wheel is basic construction and easy to repair and yes welder is available for repairs. If green will make it perform better I will paint it JD green this winter.:laugh:

Looks like an OK unit. Like MJ says it would be a simple job to build a heaver tail wheel frame if it ever should become damaged.... as long as the money is right and parts are available I wouldn't fear buying one, I would think if the mower was trouble for them they wouldn't sell it.
If they still have it I will probably pick it up today. Ditches, fence lines, a 3 acre field and brushing a gas line right of way this should be fine for many years.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ended up picking it up yesterday. I mowed a 3 acre field as a test run and the tractor didn't even care for the most part that it was there.

I do have a question on the proper technique on setting mowing height, i.e. draft control and tail wheel. The manual did not address this. My thought is use the draft control to set the height on the front edge (say 1in off the ground) and then adjust the rear wheel to raise the rear a little higher than the front. Am I closer or way off.
 

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I run mine on more of an angle that 1 inch. I would say mine is closer to 2 inches higher in the rear. I do this so large amounts of trash to be pushed out the rear and not forward. In the thick stuff mine will collect material and spit it out if its level. Some have no issues being level as they have a larger cut out in the rear for trash to be let out.

You are on the right track. Each machine is designed differently and operates a bit different for what you are cutting, but the general rules are the same. Rear higher than the front.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Brian. Do I leave the front on the ground or draft control it to the height I want to cut?
 

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Draft control it to the height needed. IMHO, the skids on the mower are to stop it from chewing up the ground when you are on uneven ground. My MX6 would be scalping the ground if I let it drag, while an older howe that we have has 3 inches of safety so it could drag, but I don't think they were ever meant to.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just a terminology correction if I may please...

It is "position" control that on the 3PH that you are using, not "draft" control. Here is a great explanation: http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm
Just an observation, the link you gave is 2/3rds correct. The overall control of the 3pt hitch is refered to as draft control. The article you gave is calling draft control as a type and that is incorrect. There are three "TYPES" of draft control, none (either up or down), position control and load sensing (which can be mechanical, electro-hydraulic or electro-mechanical). So the link describes the load sensing type as draft control when in fact the whole page is about the three types of draft control. The article is also calling the rate of drop valve a type of control and that is something completely different from draft control but it does fit with a description of how a 3pt system works.
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just an update, this summer I cut about 5 acres of grass like it was nothing. Then I cut a gas line right of way that was brush, grass and trees up to two inches and it didn't even slow the tractor. Recently I cut a path thru the woods and I caught some trees that were 3-4" and not a problem. Tractor bogged on one but that was on me because I only had it at 2000 rpm verses full pro. Looks like it will cut what I ask, within reason.

Sent from Incredible using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks, nice update. I have the 4' version and it worked great on the back of the 2320. I am anxious to try it on the 1026R next season and expect good results. My field didn't get cut this season and is a little shaggy, so I will probably be trying it out early.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Official "Groovie" Dude
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, nice update. I have the 4' version and it worked great on the back of the 2320. I am anxious to try it on the 1026R next season and expect good results. My field didn't get cut this season and is a little shaggy, so I will probably be trying it out early.:thumbup1gif:
Your 1026R should run that cutter with no problem.

Sent from Incredible using Tapatalk
 

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I'm using my neighbors King Kutter rotary cutter (5'). It is very old but has held up well. I am in the process of modifying it so it has a flex hitch like the pro king kutter, only the flex part that connects to the top link, not the bottom part of the system. I think this King Kutter pro is a great design with the sloped deck and flex hitch. My old cutter has welded reinforcements on top that tend to trap clippings, dirt etc.
It looks like this unit: http://www.kingkutter.com/WholeGood.asp?item=liftkutter

My problem was that the tailwheel was getting stressed due to all the dips I mow through. The flex hitch will allow the rear of the mower to float up and not stress the tailwheel or 3 pt hitch. The A frame of the tailwheel is slightly bent but it still tracks fine. This unit has seen lots of use and abuse but is really no worse for it.
You can see a video of how the flex hitch system works at this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXmMV-Ugqaw&feature=player_embedded
 
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