The unit is for sale at a local farm supply store and they have sold the King Kutter brand for many years and they are a King Kutter dealer so parts should not be a problem. Tackit you bring up very good points and I will look at the welds along with the entire unit. Since they are a retail store and have the unit on sale I am sure this is the best price. Here is a link to the unit.

http://www.kingkutter.com/ProProducts.asp?ProProd=Pro FH Kutter

Thanks Brian I was comparing this unit to an LX5 series and the gear box, and construction seemed very comparable. MX series is to much for the 2x20 series IMO. The tail wheel is basic construction and easy to repair and yes welder is available for repairs. If green will make it perform better I will paint it JD green this winter.:laugh:

Brian said:

The cutter in the link looks light in the gear box and in the tail wheel assembly.

For light duty or low use, it should be a good unit, but keep an eye on it and fix any issues immeidiatly. I assume you have a welder?

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tackit said:

Looks like an OK unit. Like MJ says it would be a simple job to build a heaver tail wheel frame if it ever should become damaged.... as long as the money is right and parts are available I wouldn't fear buying one, I would think if the mower was trouble for them they wouldn't sell it.

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If they still have it I will probably pick it up today. Ditches, fence lines, a 3 acre field and brushing a gas line right of way this should be fine for many years.

I ended up picking it up yesterday. I mowed a 3 acre field as a test run and the tractor didn't even care for the most part that it was there.

I do have a question on the proper technique on setting mowing height, i.e. draft control and tail wheel. The manual did not address this. My thought is use the draft control to set the height on the front edge (say 1in off the ground) and then adjust the rear wheel to raise the rear a little higher than the front. Am I closer or way off.

Thanks Brian. Do I leave the front on the ground or draft control it to the height I want to cut?

Just an observation, the link you gave is 2/3rds correct. The overall control of the 3pt hitch is refered to as draft control. The article you gave is calling draft control as a type and that is incorrect. There are three "TYPES" of draft control, none (either up or down), position control and load sensing (which can be mechanical, electro-hydraulic or electro-mechanical). So the link describes the load sensing type as draft control when in fact the whole page is about the three types of draft control. The article is also calling the rate of drop valve a type of control and that is something completely different from draft control but it does fit with a description of how a 3pt system works.

Kennyd said:

Just a terminology correction if I may please...

It is "position" control that on the 3PH that you are using, not "draft" control. Here is a great explanation: http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm

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Just an update, this summer I cut about 5 acres of grass like it was nothing. Then I cut a gas line right of way that was brush, grass and trees up to two inches and it didn't even slow the tractor. Recently I cut a path thru the woods and I caught some trees that were 3-4" and not a problem. Tractor bogged on one but that was on me because I only had it at 2000 rpm verses full pro. Looks like it will cut what I ask, within reason.

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Your 1026R should run that cutter with no problem.

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ColonyPark said:

Thanks, nice update. I have the 4' version and it worked great on the back of the 2320. I am anxious to try it on the 1026R next season and expect good results. My field didn't get cut this season and is a little shaggy, so I will probably be trying it out early.:thumbup1gif:

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