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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure some one has an idea of how to make this work. Being as the KK I have it quick hitch compatible, is there a way to make this work? I'm assuming I'll end up needing to torch the top half off, but I figured I'd ask first.

Can some one also recommend pins to replace the bolts?

Green Wood Grass Machine Plant

Font Wood Pattern Metal Plant
 

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What I would doo;

Remove that top bolt that holds the braces.
move braces to outside.
Use 2 short bolts from the "inside" of area where hook is to hold braces on with the nuts to outside.
This should/may allow enough room for the hook to fit between the "heads" of the 2 bolts.
Then move Long bolt to the top hole.

I did this same trick to a Box blade and it all went smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What I would doo;

Remove that top bolt that holds the braces.
move braces to outside.
Use 2 short bolts from the "inside" of area where hook is to hold braces on with the nuts to outside.
This should/may allow enough room for the hook to fit between the "heads" of the 2 bolts.
Then move Long bolt to the top hole.

I did this same trick to a Box blade and it all went smooth.
The issue isn't the bracing but rather the metal pieces sticking up above the bolt on the KK itself. Picture is attached as a reference.
Green Motor vehicle Terrestrial plant Wood Grass

What I would doo;

Remove that top bolt that holds the braces.
move braces to outside.
Use 2 short bolts from the "inside" of area where hook is to hold braces on with the nuts to outside.
This should/may allow enough room for the hook to fit between the "heads" of the 2 bolts.
Then move Long bolt to the top hole.

I did this same trick to a Box blade and it all went smooth.
The issue isn't the bracing itself but rather the metal arms sticking up above where the bracing is at. Picture attached for reference.
Green Motor vehicle Terrestrial plant Wood Grass
 

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If you move long bolt to top hole that should fix that clearence problem.

To do so you need an "open" space where the long bolt is now.

Thats where the 2 short bolts come into play.

swapping the braces outwards may not have to happen but will leave a bigger gap for easier hook up.

Or ditch the bolt that holds the hook on and go to pins with hairpins on each end.

They/He? KBH....sells a different hook that sticks back a bit farther to help with this or other clearence issue.

last option.....cut those ears off of the implement.......I'd try other options first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you move long bolt to top hole that should fix that clearence problem.

To do so you need an "open" space where the long bolt is now.

Thats where the 2 short bolts come into play.

swapping the braces outwards may not have to happen but will leave a bigger gap for easier hook up.

Or ditch the bolt that holds the hook on and go to pins with hairpins on each end.

They/He? KBH....sells a different hook that sticks back a bit farther to help with this or other clearence issue.

last option.....cut those ears off of the implement.......I'd try other options first.
I did move the bolt to the top and try it. Unfortunately my hook doesn't adjust far enough up for the top bushing.
 

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Can you take a pic of the entire system here so we can see what is going on here? The top hook pin should be almost directly above the bottom lift pins. Those upper braces should be at 90 deg compared to the ground. Based on your pics thusfar you either don't have the lift pins in the hitch or something is way off and the top braces are leaning forward.
 

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1. Kennys extended hook.

2. Take bolts out of hook and use a thin headed pin with a hair pin clip ....these tend to get knocked out and lost...in fact the neighbor lost the whole hook with this set up.

3. Lastly..chop /bend ,section ,trim or remove them ears.. If you plan on keeping implement then a permanent change to it is no big deal. If your unsure.......resort to the first 2 choices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1. Kennys extended hook.

2. Take bolts out of hook and use a thin headed pin with a hair pin clip ....these tend to get knocked out and lost...in fact the neighbor lost the whole hook with this set up.

3. Lastly..chop /bend ,section ,trim or remove them ears.. If you plan on keeping implement then a permanent change to it is no big deal. If your unsure.......resort to the first 2 choices.
Kens extended hook is out of stock. I'll probably go ahead and grind the ears off of it then. For all practical purposes, I'll never get rid of the implement. And if I do, the tractor is going with it. Thank for your help

Cody
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1. Kennys extended hook.

2. Take bolts out of hook and use a thin headed pin with a hair pin clip ....these tend to get knocked out and lost...in fact the neighbor lost the whole hook with this set up.

3. Lastly..chop /bend ,section ,trim or remove them ears.. If you plan on keeping implement then a permanent change to it is no big deal. If your unsure.......resort to the first 2 choices.
After deciding to go ahead and do it, it works like a charm. The hook could go up one notch for a perfect fit, but I'll need to wait for the pins from Ken to arrive

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Looks like a pretty healthy stress crack in the neck on the 2nd picture, where the tongue area attaches to the center pivot on the rake where you would rotate the rake to angle it during use, etc.

Font Wood Pattern Metal Symmetry



Something caused the metal to fatigue there and it looks like the crack is nearly 1/2 way through the material. I would have that welded to stop the failure from becoming complete.
 

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Looks like a pretty healthy stress crack in the neck on the 2nd picture, where the tongue area attaches to the center pivot on the rake where you would rotate the rake to angle it during use, etc.

View attachment 862710


Something caused the metal to fatigue there and it looks like the crack is nearly 1/2 way through the material. I would have that welded to stop the failure from becoming complete.
If you're talking about that snot in the upper right corner I think it's just a piece of debris. Looks too 3-dimensional to be a crack...
 

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Looks like a pretty healthy stress crack in the neck on the 2nd picture, where the tongue area attaches to the center pivot on the rake where you would rotate the rake to angle it during use, etc.

View attachment 862710


Something caused the metal to fatigue there and it looks like the crack is nearly 1/2 way through the material. I would have that welded to stop the failure from becoming complete.
I’m pretty sure he was taking a picture of the sticker because I’m 99.999% certain that’s not a crack. I thought it may have gotten into something and marred the paint on the back but I believe they’re both leaves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’m pretty sure he was taking a picture of the sticker because I’m 99.999% certain that’s not a crack. I thought it may have gotten into something and marred the paint on the back but I believe they’re both leaves.
I'll look at it in the morning. I've used it probably twice since I bought it new 6 months ago.
 
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