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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone post the pin out of a L110 Ignition switch with wire color and what they go to? Picked up a L110 with blown motor from an uncle mainly to fix for my daughter and when I say blown I mean blown. Rod broken in 3 places, cam shaft broken from gear then broke into in 3 places, also both push rods bent, small piece broken out of cylinder so I have a Briggs 540 cc engine with only 40 hours on it I planned on installing. The phrase bolts right in is right but that is where it stops. Making a long story short unkie is one of those who doesn't get his hands dirty so dealer does everything in up keep but he cleans and polishes his tools like they are show machines. When it come to wiring things aren't going so well. The motor to frame pin out is different for Briggs and Kohler so some wires need moving to different locations. I can't seem to get these matched up right because the wiring diagram does not match what is actually on the mower itself. The key switch terminals are not marked and where some wires are connected doesn't match up. IE: the kill wire is hooked where the diagram shows to be battery and the headlights don't work at all. Unkie does not remember the key switch ever being changed and if so it would be done by the dealer. I don't believe this switch to be a John Deere however looks the same when sitting in the mower seat. Oh! the 19 hp Briggs came off a D110 if that helps. The D110 sort of got crushed by a falling tree limb by someone who had no business owning a chainsaw.

Trying to keep from blowing the electrical system on a good engine.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
L110 wiring:

Thanks for the reply. That is the same pin out as the switch I have but apparently not the same brand which makes no difference. The switch is pattened by Delta and made by several others which I assume is under some sort of contract. This same switch is used on many brands of mowers. However the terminal marked L which should be the lights according to the diagram, but it is sure not where the lead to the lights is wired. The wire just above the power or battery terminal (I think A1) is where my lights are powered. (That terminal does not work) so again assuming the switch is bad and have ordered another one, but I think I should move that wire up to the L terminal where it should be. My only question is how it got there in the first place I know my uncle did not move it so did it come from JD that way or was it moved by someone at the dealer. One thing I did notice is the lights ground wire was fried for about 10 inches up at the front connection point. Maybe the dealer moved it to avoid replacing the switch but then he should have at least also replaced the ground wire. Just fuming because I have spent 2 days trying to straighten out this wiring. Now I just need to trace out these bleached out wiring colors. For a mower that has set inside every day of its life you would not think the wiring colors would bleach out.

Again thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
L110 wiring:

Mechanic, from what I read on the diagram the A1 and A2 both should be a switched hot terminals however only A1 is hot at any position on the switch. Therefore I have no lights. I will need two switched positions one for lights and one for the fuel solenoid. I am assuming the switch is bad. I am told not to run the fuel solenoid off the wire running the lights because a surge of any kind could drop the voltage enough to shut the fuel off . Am I right in thinking that A2 should also be hot?
 

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A2 should be hot only with the key in the 1st position, run with lights. Confirm you have power at L with the engine running, that is what supplies power to the switch for the headlights.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
L110 Wiring

Thanks for the reply. You might have just explained my problem and as soon as I get back home I will check it out. WITHOUT the engine running but with the switch turned to 1st position for engine and lights I have no power at L and no lights. I do have the brakes in locked position which should block out the safety switches and I have a hot wire from battery to the switch thru the engine to frame main connector. I just assumed it supplied voltage to the L position when the key was turned to 1st position.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
L110 wiring:

Well I tried your suggestion and still does not work. Running or not the lights do not work so I installed a new ignition switch and same old problem. Somehow I am just not getting voltage at the L post nor A2. I am now back where I started.
 

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Looking at the wiring diagram, L should be hot at all times.

Postive goes from battery to Fuse F1. Two wires come off the other side of Fuse F1. One goes to key switch B. The other goes to the regulator for the stator, then (at a splice) doubles back to key switch L. So you need to trace the wire from L backwards and see it it goes back to battery, first a splice going to the regulator, then back to the fuse, then to the battery. Running or not you should have power at L.

Key in position 1 connects L to A2 and lights are connected to A2 then have ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
L110 Wiring

Zebrafive thanks for your reply. I have double checked my wiring and it is exact as you explained but it does not work. Now let me explain what I have done. I swapped the original engine from a Kohler to a Briggs. Two wires did not match up in their position in the wiring harness one being the Red wire from the stator and the ground wire. I swapped those so they match up. Now I don't seem to have lights at any position using the key switch. I have removed the switch and checked for continuity between the battery post and the L post also the A1 and can't get anything on any key position. I reconnected the key switch and checked for voltage from the back side of the connector. Nothing at L nor A1. I assumed it was the key switch so I replaced it with a new one still no continuity with only the switch nor when I replace the connection and check for voltage. With everything connected the engine runs fine and the stator shows to be charging. The 20 amp fuse I replaced. So am I missing some kind of inline fuse or something? I am down to uncovering all the original connections and maybe making new connections even tho they show continuity. I am just at a loss for what to check. Oh! forgot to say I don't know if the lights worked when I got the mower.
 

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Zebrafive thanks for your reply. I have double checked my wiring and it is exact as you explained but it does not work. Now let me explain what I have done. I swapped the original engine from a Kohler to a Briggs. Two wires did not match up in their position in the wiring harness one being the Red wire from the stator and the ground wire. I swapped those so they match up. Now I don't seem to have lights at any position using the key switch. I have removed the switch and checked for continuity between the battery post and the L post also the A1 and can't get anything on any key position. I reconnected the key switch and checked for voltage from the back side of the connector. Nothing at L nor A1. I assumed it was the key switch so I replaced it with a new one still no continuity with only the switch nor when I replace the connection and check for voltage. With everything connected the engine runs fine and the stator shows to be charging. The 20 amp fuse I replaced. So am I missing some kind of inline fuse or something? I am down to uncovering all the original connections and maybe making new connections even tho they show continuity. I am just at a loss for what to check. Oh! forgot to say I don't know if the lights worked when I got the mower.
Key switch positions Off, One , Two, Start. Check with key switch in One for continuity from L to A2.

If the wiring is as I described: Battery Positive > Fuse> Regulator for Stator output. At this point you will have a splice. it might be an actual splice or two wires on one side of a connector, connecting to one wire. Three wires will come together. One is the one just described from the Fuse, One is from the Regulator for Stator output, One doubles back to the Key Switch L. So Key Switch L should always be HOT 12 volts.

From the same Fuse, in above, Battery > Fuse > TWO wires leave the Fuse. One goes to Regulator (see above) The other one goes to Key Switch B. So B will always be HOT 12 volts. If B is HOT, but not L, the problem is some where from Fuse > Regulator > L. If you have 12 volts at B, the fuse is good. Same Fuse should power B

You could just put a jumper from B to L on the Key Switch. It will do the same thing.

I would test the lights. Connector will have two wires, run 12 volts to one, ground the other. It does not matter which you pick for 12 volts and ground, but ground wire should be black.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
L110 wiring:

I know I am a little dumb here but are you telling me there should be a second hot wire running up to the L terminal and L is not powered by the B when the switch is turned to lights? If so, there is no second hot wire going to that L post. There are no others unused in the harness. I was just using the same wiring that was used by the Kohler engine so I am going to have to jumper something. The replacement engine came with the wiring harness so it looks like I am missing a wire.

On one side of the fuse straight from the battery is a single red wire then on the opposite side there are two wires joined together in the fuse connection, A red going to the Key Switch and a red with blue stripe going to the engine connected to the stator. The stator only has one wire so I guess I need a jumper to power another hot wire back to the L terminal. I just assumed L was powered thru the switch since there were no more wires in the harness.

Thanks a lot you have been a great help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
L110 wiring:

Zebrafive thanks for the help. It fixed my problem. I did a little checking on another mower and found there was one extra wire on the older engine than on this new Briggs. When I added the wire it fixed my problem.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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Zebrafive, I have a problem with my john deere L110. Mine will not start. I turn the key and the lights come on but it will not do anything other than that. My fuse is good and I have 12 volts at the starter solenoid. It's like it's not sending a signal to the solenoid to send power to the starter to turn over. If I hook jumper cables to my truck and jump the starter it turns over and runs, but nothing with the key. I'm thinking either ignition switch, starter solenoid or one of the safety switches for the brake, seat or PTO? Could you help me please?
 

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What happens if you place 12 volts to the wire to the solenoid? If the starter spins, then it is probably ok and you need to check the other componentsone by one. If there are two wires in the switch, jump them and see what happens. Also try starting when the switch is disconnected. Some systems require the switch to be open for proper operation.
 

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Jackemiller
Power goes from key switch, to PTO switch, to brake switch, to starter solenoid. I sent you a more detailed explination.
 

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Ok, I finally got home and tested everything yall have recommended along with the flow chart that Zebrafive sent. Everything tested good up until the brake switch. I replaced that brake switch a while back. I watch the switch when I push the brake pedal in and it seems like it pushes it in all the way but when I remove the switch, manually push it in the mower starts. I think the bracket on the pedal may have had like a nipple of some sort that hits the plunger on the switch or either the switch is moving backwards when the pedal is pressed. I'll order a new switch and go from there. The only other problem I have is that the fuel tank is cracked at the seam. I've seen videos to replace it and that's going to be a challenge.
Thank you everyone for all yalls help! It helped ALOT. If I have any other problems I know where to come
 
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