Thank you all so much ! I will start on those suggestions today !!
Thank you so much !! I will report back !!My money is on the ignition switch being at the root of the problem. Make sure the wires are connected to it and not loose or corroded and also spray some Wd40 in where the key goes and cycle the switch a few times. The ignition switches on these do "wear out" from use and dirt.
There are 3 different ignition switches which will work on your machine. Here are the John Deere part numbers and costs;
If you go to replace the ignition switch, take the mowers serial number with you to the dealer or when ordering online.
2003 Model (Serial No. GXL110A010001-140000)
2003 Model (Serial No. GXL110B010001-022402) (Canadian/Australian)
2004 Model (Serial No. GXL110A140001-
2004 Model (Serial No. GXL110B022403- (Canadian/Australian)
Please make sure to report back with what you find and what solves your problem. It helps the next L110 owner with the same problem. Thanks...
Well the switch didn’t do it . I do have 12 volts on the purple wire . Now I am lost again.Found these online:
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Cycle pto switch on/off a few times, then press/release brakes (and maybe lock brake pedal down??) Those 2 switches plus key & solenoid itself control solenoid. If you can start & continue to run by jumping large solenoid terminals, RIO & seat interlocks are OK. Also, check purple wire on solenoid for 12 volts in "Start", then check for ground. Bob
YesJust to confirm, you have 12V on the starter solenoid coil purple wire?
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it turns over and will start and run if I jump across the solenoid . It just won’t start with the key switch and the switch is new . Is works the headlights and shuts down the mower just won’t start itIf you have 12v to the purple wire and it doesn't turn over, sounds like a bad ground or a bad solenoid. You should have a purple wire to the solenoid and a black wire. Check continuity from black wire to ground. If continuity, I'd say bad solenoid...replace. Bob
Thank you ! I will try that .You say you have power at the purple wire on the solenoid and that your lights work. Looking at the wiring diagram, that only leaves teh short section of black wire on the other side of the solenoid to be bad (or the solenoid itself). You've already replaced the solenoid. While the new one could still be bad, the odds are low.
I'd disconnect the black wire from the solenoid and throw a jumper wire in there from that terminal directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If it works correctly with that then you black wire is bad at one end or the other. If it doesn't then there is no other possibility but the solenoid being bad.